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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1995 saab 900s 2.3L. When I drive my car the engine does not heat up very fast. if the car is not moving the engine will heat up to the point where it is far past what it would normally be. When I drive my car it stays under where it would normally be unless I turn off the heater all the way then it usually gets to where it needs to be. The check engine light comes on after it has been running for awhile. my heater does not kick out very warm air but the hotter the engine is the hotter the air will be when the car is running. Remember it is winter and cold so I think the air from the outside which is below freezing is cooling the engine when I drive. does this sound like a thermostat problem or heater core or what? btw I am a noob when it comes to cars. Any help in a diagnosis would be appreciated.
 

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We definitely have a thermostat problem here,as I see it..

BUT FIRST :
The knowledge, then the service, then the diagnosis.

http://www.geocities.com/[email protected]/NG900SET/Rad_fan/fan_test.html?200717

Heater cores leak, but I have never heard of one that was clogged - but I imagine that this could happen. This would be extremely rare.

I have run across one low mileage Saab with clogged hoses. Why this happened, I will never know..

The CEL is another problem. I think this MAY BE triggered indirectly by a badly stuck or missing thermostat..

Normally the engine should be warm at minute 4 of operation....and hot at 6..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok so I will replace the thermostat. I did a little research and all I could find was some tutorials for a different engines than mine and they all look different. but I should be able to figure it out. I can get help from my dad. I just wanted to make sure I had the right diagnosis. if u know of any tutorials that would be great. if not thats fine I will figure it out
 

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Here is a tutorial from a Turbo. It is the same procedure as for your engine. You can just skip the step that the first picture shows, because you don't have the turbo bypass hose it talks about.

http://bellsouthpwp.net/m/a/mattiaso/WebPages/Auto/therm.htm

I just replaced mine this weekend. Mattias' website listed above was a great help. A couple of points from my experience:

1. I was not able to get a thermostat with the relief valve, but if you looked really closely at the mechanism on the one I did get, there is already a tiny weep hole created by a small v-notch in the metal disc that is opened and closed. Regardless, this is the easiest car I've ever had to replace the coolant in. There was very little air that built up during the refill. The thermostat I took out had, IMHO, a ridiculously large hole drilled in it... probably 3/16". My car heats up much more quickly now... this is important with the Minnesota winter approaching.

2. I used the elusive radiator drain valve. For those trying to find it, it is directly below the upper radiator hose, near the bottom of the radiator. It looks like a black plastic hose connector with a 13mm hex at the base of it. It points towards the rear of the car. It is plastic, so use gentle pressure when opening, and if it seems seized, you are probably best off using a different method to drain your coolant, but in my case it opened easily. I placed a foot long piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe over the end of it and angled it towards my drain pan. Draining the radiator this way, I probably spilled less than an ounce of coolant. Aside from being a plastic valve, it is an elegant system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thank you

you for all ur help it worked out great and I learned alot and saved 100 bucks thanks to both of you
 

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Squishymax, having re-read your OP(original post), it seems as if you have more than one problem.

The thermostat is a service item for all cars. Replace every 3 to 5 years.
Your CEL lite should NOT be triggered by a bad thermostat.
It seems like your cooling system fan is not functioning correctly..
 
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