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Discussion Starter #1
So, here's the story. I live in Southern California, USA. I bought a '01 9-3 base (B205L) with 189K miles. Shortly 6 months later I downshifted into 2nd at 65mph and over revved the engine. My mechanic was a Saab technician trained in Sweden. I've been using him for the past decade and he has become a close friend of mine. He told me I bent the valves and F***ed the head off... So, last year I decided I'd turn it into a project car.
I acquired a T5 engine (B204?) out of a mid 90's 900 and decided to swap it into my '01 because I've heard of people doing this to build up there car past 300hp
so here is what I have in the car as of this moment. I've been running a B205L stage 3 Tune I bought from a company. This car is a freaking monster and a thrill to drive. It gives me a boner every time! I've tried to include as much detail as possible. If anyone has questions or needs me to clarify anything feel free to let me know.

ENGINE:
T5 b204 bottom end
2005 9-5 T7 Head w/T5 cams
All new tensioners, gaskets, etc...
'99 9-5 intake manifold (to get the injectors positioned correctly )
9-5 Head gasket
TD04-15T

After Market parts:
3" Down pipe w/race cat
3.8 bar FPR
Diverter FMC__L008 w/Blue Spring (23-30 PSI)
Turbo Intake Pipe
Cold Air Intake
B205L Stage 3 ECU (Probably not the correct choice but tuner based the tune off of my VIN #)

Issues I've noticed:
1 ) After I did a 500mi break in we changed the oil (5w-40) then oil pressure warning started coming on under normal driving conditions Mechanic suggested I use 15w-50. Oil pressure light doesn't come on anymore.
2 ) It drives nice and is stupid quick! Every time when I give it full throttle and downshift into 3rd at highway speeds it seems to cut power for a split second occasionally followed by a backfire? / cloud of smoke!
3 ) Fan kicks on frequently and runs twice as long as my '02 B205R that is stock.

Questions I have:
1 ) Can anyone explain why I'm having the issues I've noticed?
2 ) Does anyone have any concerns with this engine build?
3 ) Has anyone attempted this part combination before and how did it turn out?
4 ) Does anyone have a tune that will work with this "Franken cranken"?
5 ) Why does the fan kick on so often?
 

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Wow...
Lots here .. and I must admit when it comes to Tuned versions I'm not 100%. I have a stock B205R in a 00' 9-3 Aero (SE in the US), so that's where my comments are coming from... So these are my thoughts so far - based on your 1-3 observations.
1. The version of oil seems different to the normal grade most use. Do you have a PVC update kit installed, and when you did the rebuild was the pan dropped and cleaned. I'm not 100% sure if this applies given the older base - but check.
2. Cut in power could be associated with Tune or MAF.
3. Some Fans had 2 fans - others 1. The speed/run time could also be associated with the Air-con. Have you upgraded the inter-cooler as well? With all those mods and a stock inter-cooler - you'd have a lot of heat...

Remember in 1 & 2 - boost will be limited, however I think in 3rd - Boost is full.
Have you upgraded the injectors? I often see reports of people using 'green' ones and the valve springs from a Volvo?
You seem to have a mix of T7 and T5. What DIC are you using?
If you are looking for specialist advice re tuned versions - You might want to speak to Nick at GS. He also makes some nice stuff I'm sure you'd like.

Best of Luck. Sorry I cant be more help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mort,
The pan was dropped and cleaned and pvc update was updated prior to the engine swap. I'm using stock injectors but my fuel pressure regulator is upgraded from 3.0 bar to 3.8 bar. I am using a Black T7 DIC and it is brand new. I was having low oil pressure warnings so my tech recommended I use a heavier oil. Which worked. You have got me thinking. Could low oil pressure have something to do with the oil cooler going out?
 

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Sorry - That's at the limit of my knowledge. I cant really comment further because it would just be a WAG.
However I would have expected a custom inter-cooler based on that mods list. ie something like a Do88 version etc.
The Tune 3 you have is based on a certain build - but you seem to have a lot of custom items going on. Have you considered an alternative tune version? If the tune was based on your base (ie a base 9-3) then my understanding is that base 9-3 versions have a LPT, where has your building around a B205R which is a HOT. Could this be a problem? Just observations there...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your right Mort, intercooler, aluminum radiator and aftermarket oil pump are next on my list... Any suggestions on what oil pump setup I should use?
Unfortunately, I have maintenance I have to do first.
Differential bushing, slave cylinder and tire rotation. I was on a tight budget when I did my clutch, but luckily the trans needs to come out anyway!!!

I yanked out the stage 3 tune and replaced it with a B205R base file(so I don't destroy my differential) and drove it gently around the block today. I'll leave it with the stock B205R file for now...
In the mean time I will try to develop or acquire a B205R Stage 3 bin file Car should be fully operational in about a week. I'll let you know what happens.
 

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Sweet. Keep us posted - and I'm sure others would like to see some photos and stats.
The mods I do to my 9-3 are basically improving it, and 'insurance' in way.. like replacing hoses, and doing all bushes when Koni's went in. I have a 1- 3 year plan that basically sees me focusing on refresh and renew different items each year and costing that - because I cant do all the work myself etc. I do plan do some chassis mods like '6 point subframe', and the steering brace etc but they are not critical at this stage..

My current issue is air-con dramas. After that I think Brakes and serpentine belt / pulleys etc will be next. Mines only done 100k miles, so there are things I will need to fix in the future. I've done the radiator, water pump, hoses etc, and a full suspension refresh (minus springs), and the tyres I have are good Michelin Pilot Sports.

That's the great thing about SC here - is you get ideas and a lot of research to help. If you haven't already - Download the WIS and EPC. It will help heaps with error codes, procedures and part numbers.

Best of Luck.
 

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Do you have the means to monitor fuel trims while driving? Cutting out at wide open throttle could be boost pressure control valve. Theres several write ups and videos to verify.

You changed your FPR, did you change injectors? You might be over fueling? What color was the smoke?

As for knackering your original motor, I just recently did the same thing but I shifted to second after bouncing the limiter in third. She spun like a rotary and bent every exhaust valve. Head was fine, piston tops had light damage. I replaced the valves, ground the damage off the pistons and slapped it back together. Runs like a top.
 

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I'm weeks late to this party... but you shouldn't need 15W-50 unless it's summer in the Southwest desert... and I see you're in the USA so that's not currently true. Using 15W isn't good for a motor, especially if it's cold where you are. Change back to Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. Get an oil pressure gauge on there and find out what's happening with the oil pressure with a normal oil. You don't want to kill another motor.

No specific idea on the backfire ... vacuum leak perhaps? Do a smoke test? Does it do it with the stock tune back in? (Same question for the fan... do you get the frequent on/off with the stock tune?)

There are several guys doing tunes who could help you. Mike D is very good. There's also a guy named Ryan King who knows a lot of mods, he might be good for your hybrid. If you can't find them, PM me and I will point you at some contact info. But, they will all tell you to have a solid stage 0 before tuning. Tuning a problem just creates a higher HP problem.
 
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