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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to do my best at some searching but any help would be appreciated.

1999 9-3S 5spd just under 200k miles. Only vehicle available right now so I am desperate to fix it as cheaply as possible.

It is becoming more and more sporadic. I checked the battery and relays and they checked out. It is more likely to not want to start when it is hot, either ambient temp or hot engine. Therefore I decided it most likely would be the starter. I replaced the starter with a Fleebay salvage unit and it has not improved. I've checked all the grounds I can get to.

My only other options I can think of checking are the ignition switch, I've been trying to get at it for hours and cant figure out how to get to it to service and test it. Or the TWICE and/or DICE, if this is the case I'm sunk since I have no way to figure it out in a timely matter and don't have the money to do it in the first place and then I would be in the market for a very cheap and hopefully reliable beater.

I'm going to start searching threads but any help either directly or just a point in the right direction would be great!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It would be helpful to know what the problem is. "Not starting" is a pretty broad topic.
It will either not turn over when the key is turned to start or might turn very briefly and stop before the engine will fire. If I'm lucky it will start after several attempts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've found out that for some reason a Swede engineers decided to put the information on the ignition switch under transmission(????). At least I know how to get to the switch. I just need find something I can use as a lock pin. I wont be able to get to it before work and I'll have to bum a ride from my brother. If I need parts it'll have to wait even longer.
 

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look for ODBII codes first (these things are $10 at walmart, hyper tough!) and then check fuse #32 next to the steering wheel and see if you can hear the fuel pump (it will sound like something actuating towards the rear of the vehicle).

Next when the problem exists look very closely at the tachometer and see if it wiggles a bit in relation to the cranking. If it is perfectly still then a faulty crankshaft position sensor could be your culprit.

As for life advice, if you need a second car and absolutely nobody will loan you one then your best option is to buy a quick toyota corolla (1996 onward) for one grand or less. Unstoppable zombies those corollas are hahaha.
Public transit too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
look for ODBII codes first (these things are $10 at walmart, hyper tough!) and then check fuse #32 next to the steering wheel and see if you can hear the fuel pump (it will sound like something actuating towards the rear of the vehicle).

Next when the problem exists look very closely at the tachometer and see if it wiggles a bit in relation to the cranking. If it is perfectly still then a faulty crankshaft position sensor could be your culprit.

As for life advice, if you need a second car and absolutely nobody will loan you one then your best option is to buy a quick toyota corolla (1996 onward) for one grand or less. Unstoppable zombies those corollas are hahaha.
Public transit too.
I'm about 2/3s of the way to getting the ignition switch out. It has been a bit temperamental for quite awhile. It almost never acts like the key is out of the lock and is always chiming when the driver's door is open and disables the use of the lock remotes which up to this point has just been a inconvenience.

I have a Bluetooth OBDII scanner. It hasn't been showing and CEL so I didn't think to check for codes. I've never been able to hear the fuel pump so I don't know if I could would be able to tell the difference. I'll check the fuse. I'll then check for the censor once I get things back together enough.

I'm in the middle of a interstate move and I don't have access to my full set of tools and spares so I'm hoping I'll be able to get to the bottom of this and won't need to find something else for the time being. I might have transportation handled in the immediate future I could take public transit but will turn my 20 min commute into nearly 2 hours if I could get there at all.

I'll have more access to tools and spares next week. I'll order some more parts as well.
 

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Whoa. Slow your roll! Why do you think it's the ignition switch? Did you have the battery tested? Checked the transmission range sensor? Check the starter relay? Battery cables? Grounds? Have you tested the ignition switch to be sure it's the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Whoa. Slow your roll! Why do you think it's the ignition switch? Did you have the battery tested? Checked the transmission range sensor? Check the starter relay? Battery cables? Grounds? Have you tested the ignition switch to be sure it's the issue?
Don't have time to "slow the roll".

It seems to be the next logical step and it's been giving me minor issues up to now, i.e not recognizing when the key is out of the lock.

Obviously, you didn't read the OP well enough, I've eliminated the battery, it's a manual transmission, checked the relays, all the cables and grounds to the best of my resources and am obviously in the process of gaining access to the ignition switch. The crank sensor would have probably been better to check before hand but it didn't occur to me. However, I've had that kind of problem with other vehicles and it doesn't seem to be acting in the same manner.
 

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It is more likely to not want to start when it is hot, either ambient temp or hot engine.
OK, so we can pretty much guarantee the problem is neither the starter or the ignition switch just from this sentence. Stop wasting your time and money.

Hot start problems means either a bad electrical connection, possibly the earth strap, or more likely either a crank angle sensor or....... bad data causing bad fuel-air mix. So look for air leaks, and try starting with MAF or temp sensors disconnected. the temp sensor on top of the engine, not the one on the end, controls fuel air mix
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
OK, so we can pretty much guarantee the problem is neither the starter or the ignition switch just from this sentence. Stop wasting your time and money.

Hot start problems means either a bad electrical connection, possibly the earth strap, or more likely either a crank angle sensor or....... bad data causing bad fuel-air mix. So look for air leaks, and try starting with MAF or temp sensors disconnected. the temp sensor on top of the engine, not the one on the end, controls fuel air mix
Electrical connection I can see. I haven't found one yet and since the switch has been giving me problems there is probably no harm in replacing it.

If the sensors you've mentioned were bad wouldn't it at least turn over but fail to fire? This is what has happened to other vehicles I've had that have had issues with bad crank sensors.

Edit: Besides, getting to the switch is such a PIA I'd rather just replace it so i don't have to do it more than once.
 

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You may know this but the reason it's chiming with the door open and the fob won't work is simply because it's stuck and is not popping up fully when u pull the key .when you get the cylinder out soak it in gas .i used my key after soaking to run in and out and get it moving.sprayed some air to get it dry and lubricated it .then it was popping up and no more ding key fob workin.sorry that won't help with your starting issue.but it will take care of the annoyance.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sounds like you've got it handled! Let us know how the repair goes.
I'm hoping this works out. Just waiting for the switch to arrive. I might not be able to get to it until next week. i'm going up to get a truck load to bring down over the weekend.

You may know this but the reason it's chiming with the door open and the fob won't work is simply because it's stuck and is not popping up fully when u pull the key .when you get the cylinder out soak it in gas .i used my key after soaking to run in and out and get it moving.sprayed some air to get it dry and lubricated it .then it was popping up and no more ding key fob workin.sorry that won't help with your starting issue.but it will take care of the annoyance.
Yeah, I've been through all that. The lock can still stick but even when it has come up all the way it still chimes and disables the remotes. It used to make a difference but it doesn't anymore.
 

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We just took a brand new 99 in at the junkyard I mean this car is super clean you can eat off it's got a brand new DIY unit any part you could imagine I was going to offer anything you need it but obviously you got under control so as Javanbra said good luck bro
 

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Discussion Starter #18
We just took a brand new 99 in at the junkyard I mean this car is super clean you can eat off it's got a brand new DIY unit any part you could imagine I was going to offer anything you need it but obviously you got under control so as Javanbra said good luck bro
I could always use something... I might get back to you.

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Yeah no problem I'm always willing to help out the guys on the form. I grabbed the d i cuz it was a real 1 and it was clean but the car hasn't been molested yet so if there's anything you need just hit me up
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah no problem I'm always willing to help out the guys on the form. I grabbed the d i cuz it was a real 1 and it was clean but the car hasn't been molested yet so if there's anything you need just hit me up
I just messaged you.

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