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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

i just bought a 2005 9-3 vector sport ....does the 9-3 have a heater tap valve or aka cbd valve? , if not what is the name for the similar part in the 2005 models does anyone know.
A valve which looks exactly like a heater tap valve and is in the same position with same hoses coming in is cracked in my new vector....the coolant overflow reservoir empty’s immediately when starting the car but the car does not overheat or run low on fluids the overflow tank just empty’s..I looked around and found this part has a big crack. Reason I am confused is when I try to look on eBay or any auto part store for a heater tap valve for the 2005 9-3 all of the parts I find are listed for 1998 up to 2003 ...which leads me to believe this part is called something different for this year of this model ...does anyone have an idea? I want to get the name of the part so I can order it and fix the car ...while it does not overheat I don’t like the risk of driving it like this as it’s pretty much in pristine condition apart from this problem.

thanks for any help in advance!
cheers
rob
 

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there isn't one(heat is regulated by the blend doors),pic of what you're referring too..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi mate thanks for the reply ...
here’s some photos ...the coolant line on the bottom of the overflow tank goes right into this part first photo is that coolant line on bottom of the overflow tank going down to that junction part that I thought was the heater tap valve like in the older models ..there seems to be 3 different tubes going into this part....there is a pool of liquid underneath it in a little nook in the engine and what looks like liquid spatter all over the nearby hoses and engine, firewall etc so I know it’s leaking from here ... it’s odd in the way only the coolant overflow bottle drains very quickly ...coolant in the system radiator etc does not leak out ..so there is no overheating, I just drove it 150 kms to get it home from where I bought it with the ac on and had zero overheating problems in stop and go traffic at the end as well ..the only issue was the SID warning me that coolant was low once that overflow tank drained which was very quick 3 x in a row ..was empty in around 1-2 kms after being filled ...so if you have any idea what that part is called it would be a big help so I can source it and replace..

thanks a ton

271517






271516
 

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The previous owner took the car to several mechanics to try and fix it ..they pressure tested ..did a dye test and changed the water pump and still did not manage to fix the problem ..these were non Saab mechanics probably why they could not find it and supposedly we’re baffled by the problem....this is why he sold the car as it’s in very good shape otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just found this on eBay apparently called a heater control valve ...could this be the right part? Would you guys change all the hoses before changing the valve just to see if it’s that or not or just swap the lot?

271518
 

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There is no heater control valve on 03+ 9-3. Your second photo in post #3 is the thermostat housing. If it's leaking in that area, check the hoses going into it. The housing is plastic and might be cracked. If you replace the housing, replace the thermostat and seal as well since it's the same amount of work to get to it.
 

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Considering where I see dried coolant it looks more like the reservoir is leaking. That is a pretty common failure point.
 

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agreeing with diggs looks more like the tank,and not the stat housing that's the issue looking at the photos..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi guys and so many thanks for your advice. You are right it’s the cap on the expansion tank losing pressure so the water boils out ...you guys saved me a bunch of money and trouble ...thank you so very much!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I spoke to soon ...the car ran fine for a few trips with the new cap without problems and then promptly boiled over and emptied the reservoir again ...what should I do next change the actual reservoir bottle ..although it does not look deformed at all ....could this be something to do with the thermostat right below? According to the previous owner the thermostat was replaced in December 2018 two years ago now but I have a bad feeling he has been using water in the cooling system ...from what I can tell now it seems to be mostly water in there ...could it be the fact there is water in the cooling system that the water boils out as it has a lower boiling temp than coolant? Trying to decide do i keep changing parts or just take it to a shop where they can lift the car have them flush the system good and replace with coolant ...tempted to try drain and replace with coolant and see if the problem persists ..what do you guys think, could water being in there be the cause or not likely? Also worried some internals may be corroded by now as I think he used tap water....
 

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Does the cooling system hold pressure? When it's cold, you should be able to squash the rad hose by hand. As the car warms up, the hose should become stiff and very hard to even dent.

If the system isn't pressurizing, then it's likely to boil over, whatever the fluid is in there. So then your first job is to figure out where it's leaking (which is the reason it can't hold pressure: it's not properly sealed).

If it holds pressure, but then boils over anyway, then I would guess it's a head gasket issue.
 

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Considering where I see dried coolant it looks more like the reservoir is leaking. That is a pretty common failure point.
This guy....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi all and many thanks for the replies and help ..I really appreciate it ...head gasket is a scary thought ..I checked the oil and nothing in there but oil so that’s a good sign re gasket although does not necessarily mean it’s not the head gasket ... so I checked the expansion tank and it all seems to be good..not deformed, no cracks ..the cap thread is good ...once I put it back in I will check and see if it’s holding pressure...at this point I’m starting to think it may be best to take it to a shop and get a pro diagnosis ...anything else anyone can think of to try before I take it in?
thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@aerojon I got the cap from a local supercheap auto so I am guessing that means it’s an aftermarket cap...why are the aftermarket caps known to not work? It looks identical in every way to the original cap.. There is a local Saab salvage here that I nearly bought a new expansion tank with original cap from ...but figured i Already booked in the repair shop why buy the part if I do not know if that’s the problem or not... putting the cooling system back together today ..will test to see if it’s holding pressure and report back ..
 

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@EdT I can not drive the car right now as it is unregistered until next Tuesday ....so I found the radiator hose and yes it’s easy to squash by hand ...I idled the car for 30 mins or so with the ac on full and revved it a bit to simulate driving ...got the car up to operating temperature after about ten mins but that radiator hose never got hard, stayed as soft as before I turned it on the whole way ....nor did the bottle boil over this time either ..I dunno is it hard to get it up to pressure without actually driving and just idling and revving or should the system get pressurised even just idling for half an hour or so? If it should get pressurised and that radiator hose should get hard once the car is up to normal operating temps it’s definately not getting pressurised...
 

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By the time the thermostat opens, the system should be pressurized. You can tell when the thermostat opens, because the top radiator hose goes from cold to hot.

If the system does not pressurize, then it's quite likely to boil over. The pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant. You can get by with an unpressurized system when it's cold, if you don't push the engine hard. But in summer (you're in the southern hemisphere I guess), that's skirting the edge of boiling.

You can get a pressure test done by a shop, or get a pressure test tool. You need to find out where exactly it's leaking. Although if the coolant level isn't dropping noticeably, it would not surprise me if the leak is somewhere in the upper part of the coolant reservoir--so mostly you'd just be losing the air that's up there, not coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
@EdT many thanks for your reply help and info! I have a feeling the thermostat is not opening ..none of the hoses got warm yesterday when I idled the car and revved it for over 30 mins .... the only thing I noticed was some additional fluid bubbling into the expansion tank from the top hose...but the radiator hose remained easy to squeeze and none of the hoses got warm ...the previous owner changed the thermostat looks like two years ago but I think he has been using bloody water as the coolant for a good while which if I understand right is really bad for many reasons including corrosion ..could make sense the thermostat is no longer working due to corrosion ...I am going to have the Saab repair place change the thermostat either way and flush the cooling system really good!

many thanks for your help my friend very much appreciated!
 

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The rad hose definitely should get hot. It sounds like the engine might be overheating. You should describe all your symptoms to the shop and have them investigate. It's probably easier to get everything wrong fixed at one time.
 
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