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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought this 93 9000CS for my GF, I noticed the front headlight wipers work but they aren't synchronized and it looks stupid. Are they supposed to be synchronized? I'm thinking maybe a left motor might have been swapped with a right at some point? What controls the synch??

Thanks for any tips!

Steven
 

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No, they're not synchronized. They run for a period of time, then park. It's probably for the best since you wouldn't want your right wiper to stop working if your left one was iced over.
 

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When they fail they usually fail in the "park" function.

Each motor self parks with an internal electronic "switch" so left and right motors are different parts although they look the same. The case of the motor has L or R embossed on it and the part numbers are one digit different.

The motors are activated at the same time but the actual wiping speed depends on the load on that wiper arm so the probability they will wipe in synch is very low. They should both park at the outer end of their sweep.

My right hand motor no longer self parks. A new one is on order from Sweden. Used ones are a bad gamble because while they may work they usually won't park.
 

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You need a helper for this one. Flip the arms out so they are off the H/L lenses. (Side note: When you do this take note of the tension on the arms. Each should have a tendency to firmly hold the wiper blade against the glass. If one or both are "floppy" the spring pins have broken off - the arms are shot. Get some new or good used ones).

If you find that they are still spring loaded continue like this:

While standing in front of the car (with the wipers pulled off the H/L's) have your assistant squirt the windshield. The H/L wipers only operate when the windshield washer is pump is activated. More importantly, they only stroke for two (2) cycles.

There is no time to pull the stalk back and then race around to the front in time to watch - hence the need for a helper

Watch the motion of the arms and note whether:

1. The total arc distance is the same.
2. The arms consistently park in the same spot. By this I mean each arm independently of the other, not that they are in synch.

If they both stroke the same distance and stop at the same place, that's good. The problem one has jumped/stripped it's splines and can be set back to original. This generally happenens from operating the windshield washers with ice covered headlights.

It should be obvious which one will need to be re-set.

Pull the little plastic cover off the base of the affected arm and (while holding the arm to provide counter-torque) remove the shaft nut. Maybe 10mm.

Rock the arm gently, squirt some PB Blaster, tap with a small ballpein hammer.... and pull it off. Remove the rubber hose from the arm.

Using a toothbrush style wire brush, Thoroughly clean the splines on the motor shaft. There will be a lot of aluminum dust between the teeth. Get it all out.

Now, look into the tapered bore on the base of the arm. This is supposed to have splines as well. Clean it as best as you can. See any splines? If so, good. If not, don't worry, when you do the alignment put some permatex threadlock (blue) on the shaft/arm interface.

The arms are stilled flipped out at this point. Using the known good arm as a guide, place the other arm in the proper place on the shaft. Do not tighten yet, bring up just snug enough so it does not slip.

Operate the wipers and check/adjust until the park position is exactly the same on both. When they are close, you need to do this with the blades on the glass. This is to be sure that, in the park position, the arm just gently rests against the black stop bumper. It's better to be a little shy than pressing against it.

If it is not indexed correctly, pull it off and reset. Don't simply twist the arm, pull it clear and push it back on for each increment.

When you've finished making final adjustment, and feel comfortable that it is correct, tighten it up.


BTW - If thread lock is required, this is the time to apply it. Pull the arm off and put the threadlock on the internal splines. Wait 15 minutes and, using your sharpie mark as a reference, push it firmly home.

If you want this repair to last for more than a month you need to do final tightening like this:

Remove the shaft nut and using a deep socket (one that just barely fits over the threaded end of the shaft) drive the arm hard onto the shaft with a small hammer. This will renew the splined interface by causing the stainless steel shaft to cut deeper into the soft aluminum of the arm. For an even tighter fit place the aluminum part in the oven (250 F is plenty) for a 1/2 hour before driving it home.

Replace the shaft nut and, while holding the arm to counter your tightening torque, bring it up to 20 ft-lbs. Replace the hose and plastic cap.


Note: the last step should be used any time a (tapered) aluminum/SS splined interface is made up. It can usually save any stripped out wiper arms
 
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