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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a search on the forum for downpipe, but all this stuff came up about 3" pipes. I got my SPG back today and the mechanic said everything's good, but I'm going to be wanting to replace the header pipe soon because it's cracked. Not an emergency he said, but something to do soon.

Someone pulled me other the other day to talk about the Saab and he said that he ran through one every two years.

If I'm replacing this, what is the best option to make sure I don't have to do it again for a while?

I'm planning on doing the whole exhaust system when I do it. I'd like to get something similar to stock, but perhaps with just a tad more sound. Nothing obnoxious. I had a magnaflow exhaust on my old Jetta and quite liked it. I don't want to lose the ability to hear the lovely "swoosh" of the engine, but I'd like something just a tad sportier than stock.

I haven't found anything in stainless for the 900 either. Is there such a thing?

So any suggestions for a complete replacement (I am keeping the cat)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I spent $700 on the catback system for my Jetta. Seems like a steel system for the Saab is around $400-500? How long would that last me? Three years?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Paul called me yesterday to tell me the car was ready. I told him I'd pick it up this morning, but ended up swinging by last night to see if he was still there. He was. Was just closing up. Seemed a LOT more friendly and chatted for a while. Either Justin told him about my bad experience before with him, or I just got him at a good time.

He said to troubleshoot the shaking, he'd have to drive an hour to the parkway and check it out, so he didn't do that. Said all suspension components looked good. Quite a bit of surface rust -- figured the car sat a while. Said I should just take a wire brush to it and put POR-15 on it. He did the tune up, said he fixed the shifter, but I am still having the problem -- no reverse lockout, so when I go to shift to 5th, I can move the shifter WAY over to the rigth if I'm not careful. He told me -- "hey, you know where 5th is, just push straight up out of 4th...There's no danger of you hitting reverse from 4th, so don't worry about it."

Did a full tune up -- belts, hoses, distributor cap/rotor. Said a wheel alignment should fix the shaking and it seems to have helped, but I think I need a new set of tires. The Goodyears on there now got good ratings from TireRack, but they are very LOUD and sound like there is a flat spot on one or more of them.

Said all the boots look good, don't worry about the CVs or inner drivers. Transmission feels good he said. Also, I asked him about boost seeming weak. He said it felt great to him. Guess it's just the difference between the Speed6 and a 17 year old Saab. He said "there's plenty of things we can do if you want more boost," and seemed pretty excited about that. I don't think I want to do much in that department, if only to save the transmission and keep it reliable as a daily driver.

Passed inspection with flying colors.

He said overall the car is in excellent shape and that I got a real good car. No structural rust, just hit the undercarriage & control arms with POR-15. That was good news.

He is *definitely* a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy, absolutely.

Not quite what I had hoped for, but the car pulls nicely now. With all the surface rust, I don't feel quite as bad planning on using this car in the winter as it's not a "perfect specimen." I'll just make sure to wash it often during the winter and drive it as long as I can. I'd love to get ten more years out of it. I can't tell you how much fun I'm having driving it. I was in a funk just getting back in the Mazda for the week.

So it looks like some of the things I wanted checked I'll have to do myself. I'll probably try to tackle this exhaust myself (good idea? bad idea?) and work on all the squeaks and rattles as time goes on.

The other thing is the temperature. I noticed it still fluctuates wildly and I forgot to ask about that. I bought a set of official SAAB SPG gauges and will hook them up at some point so I can get a better idea of the actual engine temp. Currently, the temp seems to stay around 1/4 on the dial. If I'm sitting in traffic, it goes up to 3/4 and then the fan comes on and cools it down again. I don't know if that's normal...

Anyway, I guess it was a pretty good experience. If I have an emergency, he'll be the one I go to. I'll also bring it to him for regular maintenance.

Anything semi-optional that I want done though, it looks like I'll have to bring it somewhere else or do it myself.
 

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volswagn said:
Said a wheel alignment should fix the shaking and it seems to have helped, .....and sound like there is a flat spot on one or more of them..
check for a bent or flat-spotted rim - had that on my '85 - the wheel could not be brought into balance - when we checked runout on the rim we found that it had been the victim of one to many hard hits (I'm from Pennsylvania - the pothole state)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll do that... The car came from PA. :)

Probably will get a new set of tires. Should have someone check the rims first.
 

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Your temp fluctuation sounds like the sender just needs a little twisting around for a good contact. There is a little spade lug looking thingie near the front (back) of the engine with a light gauge wire on it. It fits over a post that looks a bit like the head of a nail. Slide it off and put it back on a few times and this should clean any crud off the electrical contact there.
 

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volswagn said:
I'll do that... The car came from PA. :)

Probably will get a new set of tires. Should have someone check the rims first.
wheels are pretty simple to check - jack the car up (use jackstands - remember - safety first or do one wheel at a time and don't let any part of your body that you'd like to retain get under the car!) and either use a dial indicator or just rig up a fixed location pointer that gently makes contact with the outside edge of the rim - then rotate the wheel (on the car) - distance between the pointer and the rim shouldn't change - either up and down or side to side - I had a wheel on my '85 that seemed fine on the rear but thumped like a bugger on the front - replaced it for 50 bucks - I suspect it contributed to the failure of a front wheel bearing (although that may have been coincidence - but as a rule I don't believe in coincidence).;)

While you've got it up in the air check the integrity of the sheet metal around where the lower control arms attach - classic point of failure on a 900.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sheet metal around lower control arms has surface rust. Lots of places I have to check I guess.

So on the downpipe -- if I'm staying with stock size, might as well get the stock part? I'm thinking of getting the Swedish Dynamics exhaust for the cat back. Anyone have that? Wondering if the glass pack would be too noisy. I don't want much louder than the car already is. Just a nice tone, and perhaps a bit louder during acceleration and idling. I don't want the "75mph drone."
 
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