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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My brother bought a 98 Saab convertible online. It is a 4 cylinder engine 2.0 turbo with direct fire ignition. I think 16V. It wouldn't run when he got it. I did a compression check and found no compression on cylinder #1. Cylinders #2 = 150 psi, #3 142 psi and #4 150 psi on a cold engine. I think it is a valve (carbon on the valve, burned, etc.) What is a common problem for these engines when they have no compression on 1 cylinder? I think it is time to pull the head. Is there a good procedure for this online or written by a Saabcentral member? If not what book has the best procedure? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Can the head usually be saved by a good machine shop or is it best to replace them?
 

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Wrong I may be, but are not the other compression numbers a bit low, and could this be rings ???

Timing chain ?
Bearings?
Sludge?

A second test should have been performed, the one with oil..
For some of their cars, GM has a engine rebuild program, it would be good to include Saab, Opel, Holden in this...
 

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What puzzles me is that it won't start. Even with 1 cylinder at 0 compression the car would still start. It'll run like crap but it would run. I think you need to check the cause of the no start issue before you sink money in her.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I could try putting oil into the cylinder but I think with 0 compression it most likely isn't a ring problem. I am sure it has another problem regarding why it won't start. Could be fuel spark or ?. I think the compression is ok besides #1. They are well within 10% of each other.

I would think if the timing chain slipped wouldn't all of the cylinders be damaged, right?

A leak down test would be the next step but I think it is still worth pulling the head just to see what in going on. Since I will be doing the work myself it won't cost anything to pull the head. I will look over the procedures. Thanks for all of the info. I apprecitae it.

Is this a common problem with these cars or ?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the links. Is there a procedure for removing the head from the engine with the engine in situ. The head is going to a machine shop. I am not going to rebuild the head. Looking for a procedure on removing the head. Leave the exhaust man. on and remove with the head or ?. Intake with head or does it need to come off first. Thanks.
 

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Oil in the other cylinders, IMO, 130 is borderline low.

Many abuse automobiles in general, not only Saab:nono;

Work on why she does not start, Hkayssi is correct - absolutely...:cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks. If anyone has a procedure for head removal maybe with pics please post the link or email it to me? That would be great.
 

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Re-read post two..

Good luck:cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Please send me the direct link. I don't see it. 2 of them are disassembling the head. That won't help as it will go to a machine shop. Another one is putting the engine back together out of the car. Not really what I am looking for. The last one is replacing the head studs. Does there happen to be one that shows an actual removal of the head from the engine including whether or not to remove the exhaust manifold or pull it with the head, pull the intake with the head or ?, does the chain need constant tension on it once loose or ?, etc. That is what I am searching for. I can remove the head without it but since I am doing this for my brother some tips would make it go much faster and smoother. If I missed it please post the direct link to the removal procedure. Most of the procedures I have seen for other cars written by members have been very detailed with pictures.
 

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twilightcall said:
...Most of the procedures I have seen for other cars written by members have been very detailed with pictures.
It might help to take a look at the Haynes manual, even if you find some pictures online. The head removal, and more important, the reassembly with information on the timing chain, torque specs, etc. are there. Posts from people who assemble it with the timing belt off by a notch are pretty common.
 

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hkayssi said:
What puzzles me is that it won't start. Even with 1 cylinder at 0 compression the car would still start. It'll run like crap but it would run. I think you need to check the cause of the no start issue before you sink money in her.
Just adding confirmation: 2 months ago, no compression on cylinder #1. one burnt valve, one exploded. Started, hard, and idled absolutely horribly. But started, none the less.

_bny
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Great. Thanks. I appreciate.

Alright. Will check for fuel and spark today. Will check the fuel pressures and check the values against spec.

I saw someone post about sludge. Is this a problem with this model?

Thanks Again for the posts. I appreciate it.
 
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