[jvanabra]

I would really not put the head back on without having a machine shop look at it, and replacing the valve stem seals. Not doing that creates a possibility if not a likelihood of doing this work all over again in the not far future.

 

[Freestate]

Hi guys, I bought a machinist straight edge and verified the head is flat. The intake manifold was not however, one end was about 0.005” out. I don’t have any experience with machine shops in the area and doubt any do any work with SAABs but there is a SAAB shop in Kansas City, about an hour away. I plan to have them resurface the intake manifold, remove a broken stud from the turbo, test the turbo wastegate, replace the valve seals and lap the seals. I would prefer to do the valve work myself but am concerned with removing the seals and scratching the lifter bores. I’m tempted to replace the rear seal but that looks like a nightmare, probably tackle it next year.
Cheers!

 

[Ryengoth]

Any machine shop can fly cut the manifold for you. You are wanting to replace the valve seats or the stem seals?

 

[jvanabra]

Yeah... nothing special about a B202 head... Any competent machine shop will be able to do this work. Call a reputable repair shop or two and ask for a recommendation. You'll find the good guy in town.

 

[Freestate]

Just replace the seals and lap the valves. I’ll check around. Thanks

 

[Ryengoth]

Repair shops are usually good since they'll give you the names of the guys that do it cheap with fast turn-around. If you were here there's one guy I'd recommend. He does all of it and did head work on my V6 GDiT build. If you don't mind the shipping, let me know and I'll arrange it. His pricing is really good and had never done any KDM stuff until my job and did a bang-up job on race valve and seat cutting as well as seals for me. Just don't expect 24-hour turn-around. The seals are usually not an issue if you have a decent puller. It's when the guides are worn that you have to get a machine shop involved(if you don't have a mill).

 

[Jim Mesthene]

If you don't have the SAAB Special Tool for the valve seals, remove the old, rock-hard seals by grabbing (hard!) with needle-nose Vise-Grips.
They crack, then come off pretty easily. New, supple seals slip right on.

 

[Freestate]

Thanks Ryengoth, I’ll talk to a local race car builder, specializes in Mazda but does my s2000 stuff, he probably knows a good machine shop. Thanks Jim too, great Vice-Grip tip. Looking at replacing the power steering hoses, man those flare nuts on the steering rack look tough to access. i found an older post where Jim, you recommended undoing the rack bolts and lifting it up about 1/2” for clearance. Might try that. Thanks again

 

[02Pilot]

I fought hard with the power steering lines when I replaced them, and I had the whole accessory drive removed. In the end, it was a crow's foot on a long extension with an impact wrench that broke them loose.

 

[Freestate]

Thanks, did you do it from under the car?

 

[02Pilot]

Above and across, so for the lines on the left side I stood on the right, dropped the tool in, and worked that way. You need a long extension - I think I used a 24" - and an impact with decent power. The Milwaukee stubby is perfect for this (that's what I used). It would be really tight with all the pulleys in place, but you might be able to do it by just pulling the belts off, and maybe the water pump pulley since it's easy.

 

[jvanabra]

If you're doing this while the head is already off, you've got a leg up. I'd consider not only removing the water pump pulley, but the water pump itself... might as well replace it while it's just sitting there. If you've got the tools and the inclination, the front main seal & oil pump o-ring are just a few more bolts, and then you have very nice access to the rack as well.

 

[02Pilot]

Yep, I was addressing a significant oil leak from the main seal when I did the PS lines. With all that stuff gone access is not an issue.

Of course I had to do much of it all over again when the rubber and steel in my pulley/damper decided to part company last month. At least it was a lot faster the second time around....

 

[Freestate]

Oh man, I feel scope creep coming on but you are right, I’ll probably not have as easy access as this in a long time. Plus, not really in a hurry. Was avoiding the clutch and rear seal too but dang, it’s right there! Hmmm

 

[jvanabra]

Clutch and rear seal aren't much easier without the head. You do save ~30 minutes or so because the intake plumbing is already gone, but not a huge amount of actual work.

 

[Ryengoth]

Oh man, I feel scope creep coming on but you are right, I’ll probably not have as easy access as this in a long time. Plus, not really in a hurry. Was avoiding the clutch and rear seal too but dang, it’s right there! Hmmm

Heh, scope creep is tough to control when you start pulling parts in the engine bay. I still have the front left corner of my 9000 laying in pieces waiting for me to decide if I am pulling the timing cover to open another rabbit hole. My 3 questions of scope control:

1) might it cause an accident going down the road?
2) is it going to take me more than 2 hours to get to later?
3) is it going to cause me more than the cost of the parts now, as well as related damage, to replace it in 3 months?

 

[Freestate]

I like your criteria, makes sense. I don’t think my clutch really need replacing but it looks like the seal is leaking and leaks are one of my pet peaves. My only concern is that I have heard some horror stories about changing the clutch and seal. Yikes. I’ll see how I feel after doing the PS lines.

 

[jvanabra]

Nah, clutch is easy on a 900. The RMS is annoying but not world-endingly difficult. It's 3-4 hours of work your first time; 2 hours your second.