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Discussion Starter #1
I think I might have a slight head-gasket issue... I guess I now know where my coolant was going... This looks kind of bad... 500 miles on that gasket.

I think I had an issue with the arp studs not clamping good. I went to re-torque and a few of them were very loose. I think they all blew out at the same time as I seated the rings with 20psi and a badly torqued head...

John
 

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maybe the cometic gasket would work better in your case. I know that someone said that they dont seal well if the surfaces arent perfect,but if i am going to do a headgasket,the surfaces will be perfect anyways. check the specs on the est style gaskets.I still think that this would be a great upgrade from stock.:cool:
 

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John Z Williams said:
I think I had an issue with the arp studs not clamping good. I went to re-torque and a few of them were very loose. I think they all blew out at the same time as I seated the rings with 20psi and a badly torqued head...
:eek:

That seems hard to believe, after only a few hundred miles with new studs and new headgasket! Do you mean the studs themselves did not clamp in the bock, or the caps and the head were not torqued right?
 

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mayb you got some bad bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had not run all that hard on the heat, it was very rich and only 21-25psi spikes. I ran 30psi + for over a year with no issues and I have hammered my car racing.

I don't know what happened exactly, but I suspect my torque wrench is junk or something. I torqued the head to 80 Ft lbs with the arp studs. I guess the range is 80-120 ft-lbs, so maybe I did not go enough. When I noticed too much pressure in my expansion bottle, I re-torqued the head. I found a few of them lose, they were maybe 20 Ft-lbs to get them loose. The rest were fine.

It ran a couple of days perfect and did not lose any coolant and then slowly started to seep again. It would take 2 days or 120 miles to go down from the full cold line to trip the low level sensor.

I think it got knocked out in the begining when I found a few head bolts loose.

Block deck and head seem straight, it was just checked a few weeks ago. I just blew the gasket I think, I will have one back on Monday or Tuesday.

John
 

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The ARP bolts is tricky to get right since they dont "flex out" as much as the stock bolts.
How did you tourque the bolts?

The proper torque is 40nm, then 60nm, and last 90 degree pull.

Probably you've done this (i dont know how much 80 ft-lbs is..), but for future purposes..
 

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oddly enough, when i rebuilt my 9k motor with the arp studs, i had a seeping gasket for awhile too. i did the 3 step torque when i installed the, and after about a month the coolant level just stopped dropping. now it has started again, have to top it off about every 3-4 weeks....

now if i could only solve my dissapearing oil :roll:
 

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I'm pretty sure ARP's are not TTY.
You have to be certain you clean the bolt holes with brake cleaner and air, and use the moly "lightly". I run a pin-strip up the threads 180* from eachother. otherwise, you get air-pockets, and you can't rely on your torque readings.

Past that, I've always torqued mine well over 100 lb/ft.
I think the last motor I did, we went to 110. because the kid wanted to run +30psi

It's also reccomended that with iron/aluminum you idle the motor to operating temp, then let it cool once before and re-torque before you drive it. (I've done this a couple times and never had to re-torque, but when you are at the higher part of the torque specs, the heat/cool cycle doesn't "move" anything)

Good luck, bud.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I used motor oil to torque and went to 80 ft-lbs in 3 stages. I found out later that was the minimum spec for moly lube. My bolt holes were not the cleanest.

I found out later the minimum spec for motor oil is 109 ft-lbs. I was about 29 ft-lbs short of the spec.

I am a little worried to try them again, but if I do, I will clean the bolt holes, use a new torque wrench and do a 3 stage torque to 109 ft-lbs.

John
 

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John, I kid when I say....
but there's a truth the the saying "RTFM!!"

:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know, the bolts did not come with any spec sheet or any moly lube. In fact, I did not even know there was moly lube for the torque procedure until it was too late. I posted this so others will know to be carefull when using a new product like arp head bolts;)

John
 

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Oh. Did you get these from Nick? Yikes.
Something like a headstud set should have instructions.

If you use the oil, wiggle the stud as you screw it in to get air out.
If you feel restriction(from air), just back it out wipe some oil off, and re-install.
It's also inportant that you don't put much torque on the stud into the block.
you just hand tighten them down, and all the torque is applied with the nut/washer.

The problem with oil is that it drips down to the bottom of the bore, and doesn't allow the stud to bottom-out. You're only using the oil/moly to assure that the torque is applied evenly across all the threads, so don't go crazy.
 

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And also...

SnapOn's the way to go!

I had a similar problem when I was back home in Kansas City. Luckily my dad was changing the oil at the time of the problem to prevent anything major from happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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Hmm...seems like all the threads that you've been making within the last couple months are all of bad news. That's unfortunate. For your sake I hope the next thread you make is of a dyno sheet.
And if you get everything up and running within a couple weeks, maybe you could take me for a joyride when I'm in Denver for a few hours on the way home :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes, I have had some issues in the last month since I got it going again. First was the tranny blowing out 4th gear in the first 50 miles, then the head gasket blew because I torqued the head to the wrong spec and then my clutch is still slipping after trying to mate the new light spec flywheel to the old spec stage 3 disk. Trouble comes in 3's, maybe that is my 3...

John
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It runs again!

PMI said:
:eek:

That seems hard to believe, after only a few hundred miles with new studs and new headgasket! Do you mean the studs themselves did not clamp in the bock, or the caps and the head were not torqued right?
I mean I torqued the arp studs to moly lube minimum torque with motor oil. The spec for motor oil is 109 ft-lbs, I only torqued to 80 ft-lbs.... Not enough...

The car is back up and running now, I had the head checked again and it was warped. They said when I brought it in a few weeks back, they only checked if the valves sucked down and held, not the surface:eek: I had the head decked, torqued to spec with arp moly lube and so far its running great and the coolant is still in the bottle!

Its amazing how much better a car runs without a blown head gasket!

John
 

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I know the instructions show 80lbs with moly, but PLEASE over-torque them.
Did you use moly in the block AND in the nut?

either way, pop the cover off and check 'em after a couple miles.
it certainly won't hurt.
 
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