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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I bought an Innova OBD2 scanner and, although it detects the port, it cannot perform a full scan. The scanner "loses connection" after about a minute, then reconnects, then disconnects again - it remains in this loop. Pins on port all looked fine, but I pushed them in just in case. Nothing. I can confirm that the scanner works because I used it on our Jeep Wrangler just moments before.

Wondering if this might provide a clue.

As far as the WIS recommendation... I'm guessing its referring to the wiring around the driver's side relay box? I've tried moving that with no noticeable change. I did take a peak at the ECU and that area is really messy. There's rust on the panel right behind the ECU and what appears to be mold. I've yet to remove the carpet and inspect carefully.

Could damage to the ECU pins have anything to do with this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Nope, your scanner is issue here.
Only TECH2 will work 100%.
I agree about 100% functionality, but I've seen typical OBD2 scanners being used on the car successfully. They don't allow you to do much, for sure, but a connection and basic scan should be possible on most. The Innova website lists the 2000 9-3 as compatible, too.

I found it suspicious, but I'm open to other ideas of course.
 

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I agree about 100% functionality, but I've seen typical OBD2 scanners being used on the car successfully. They don't allow you to do much, for sure, but a connection and basic scan should be possible on most. The Innova website lists the 2000 9-3 as compatible, too.

I found it suspicious, but I'm open to other ideas of course.
ODBII (basic) scanners work fine. You can pull codes. But beyond that with non-Tech II scanners it's a crapshoot.

It's rare to see a DICE/ICE go bad. Not unheard of, but I've only seen a handful in 20 years. Likewise ECU's rarely go bad. It happens, but very rarely. I think I've seen two or three in 20 years. It's almost always something else.

You probably need to buy a Tech II. Chinese clones can be had for $300 and arrive in 3-4 days by DHL. Otherwise, choose a specific issue, follow the WIS troubleshooting procedures, and try to find a fault. Some of the troubleshooting procedures are more detailed than others so check for all the failures you have. Some will also require a Tech II, so back to that.

The other choice is just throw darts at it... check the fusebox that might have gotten wet again. Clean fusebox connections with Deoxit or similar on everything. Check and clean grounds (WIS has all locations shown in one list... if you can't find that diagram, ask). Bad grounds do odd things in these cars. Another possibility is the ignition switch, as mentioned previously. They also cause funky oddities when they are bad. Sometimes, like yours, seemingly disconnected oddities, all due to the bad switch.
 

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ODBII (basic) scanners work fine. You can pull codes. But beyond that with non-Tech II scanners it's a crapshoot.

It's rare to see a DICE/ICE go bad. Not unheard of, but I've only seen a handful in 20 years. Likewise ECU's rarely go bad. It happens, but very rarely. I think I've seen two or three in 20 years. It's almost always something else.

You probably need to buy a Tech II. Chinese clones can be had for $300 and arrive in 3-4 days by DHL. Otherwise, choose a specific issue, follow the WIS troubleshooting procedures, and try to find a fault. Some of the troubleshooting procedures are more detailed than others so check for all the failures you have. Some will also require a Tech II, so back to that.

The other choice is just throw darts at it... check the fusebox that might have gotten wet again. Clean fusebox connections with Deoxit or similar on everything. Check and clean grounds (WIS has all locations shown in one list... if you can't find that diagram, ask). Bad grounds do odd things in these cars. Another possibility is the ignition switch, as mentioned previously. They also cause funky oddities when they are bad. Sometimes, like yours, seemingly disconnected oddities, all due to the bad switch.
Does the ecu ground thru its mounting bracket? Or only through the wiring thats plugged into it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
ODBII (basic) scanners work fine. You can pull codes. But beyond that with non-Tech II scanners it's a crapshoot.

It's rare to see a DICE/ICE go bad. Not unheard of, but I've only seen a handful in 20 years. Likewise ECU's rarely go bad. It happens, but very rarely. I think I've seen two or three in 20 years. It's almost always something else.

You probably need to buy a Tech II. Chinese clones can be had for $300 and arrive in 3-4 days by DHL. Otherwise, choose a specific issue, follow the WIS troubleshooting procedures, and try to find a fault. Some of the troubleshooting procedures are more detailed than others so check for all the failures you have. Some will also require a Tech II, so back to that.

The other choice is just throw darts at it... check the fusebox that might have gotten wet again. Clean fusebox connections with Deoxit or similar on everything. Check and clean grounds (WIS has all locations shown in one list... if you can't find that diagram, ask). Bad grounds do odd things in these cars. Another possibility is the ignition switch, as mentioned previously. They also cause funky oddities when they are bad. Sometimes, like yours, seemingly disconnected oddities, all due to the bad switch.
Great stuff, thanks. More to go over this week. I'll report back.

In the meantime, if I did manage to hook the car up a to Tech II again, is there anything else it could do regarding that P1640 code? I already went over (as best as I could) the relevant WIS recommendations.
 

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See if you can follow the WIS and see if indeed pin 1 comes from the ignition switch. If it does,replace switch and all will be good. As you just stated a short time ago, it wouldn't start and then everything was good then not. I'm inclined to point to ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
See if you can follow the WIS and see if indeed pin 1 comes from the ignition switch. If it does,replace switch and all will be good. As you just stated a short time ago, it wouldn't start and then everything was good then not. I'm inclined to point to ignition switch.
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind as I go through the next few troubleshooting steps. It'd be awesome if that solved it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ugh...

I finally received the new ignition switch:
Nickel Cylinder Gas Household hardware Machine

Wood Gas Asphalt Flooring Tints and shades

However, going over the replacement guides, I noticed that there is an additional black component attached, which I would guess is the actual electrical part that I needed:
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Gadget Automotive wheel system

Is this the bit that's actually tied to the faults?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Damn it. haha well, is there any benefit to replacing the cylinder or should I request a return?

I think I can source the correct part locally. Would a 99-02 9-5 ignition switch work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Now I want to err on the side of caution.

Should I go for this:


Or this?


I'm wondering if the harness included with the latter could in any way be related to the issue, warranting replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Sure! I wanted to double-check on the harness issue first.

This is from a 2002 9-5, but one of the the part numbers matches, so it should work?


Wouldn't line up with Mimmi's statement, though.
 

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I’d try gold wing Saab for a known good used one that fits your style - there are two, one with a remote switch and one where the switch is integrated onto the key lock cylinder.
I had these issues and swapped in a good used one and no now no more issues.
 
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