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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you have, how the hell do you get out the upper 8mm allen key bolt?!?!?!:evil: :evil:


<---I am NOT smiling right now
 

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The upper bolt is hidden behind the tensioner arm. The upper idler, tensioner, and upper alternator bolt are all attached to one bracket.

So, the idler pulley has to come off, then the tensioner (same allen-type bolt as the alternator), then the upper alternator bolt. If you leave the lower bolt loosely in place, it will be easier to pry the alternator out of the upper bracket. Take some care with the aluminum bracket, it can break. This is how it fits together:



And here are all the parts spread out:



Good luck!
 

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PMI, one of these fine days I will have to pull an alternator or THREE - the brushes do not last forever.

Generally, for me they seem to be good for 75K to 150 K miles ...! With your pics, that removal job does not seem to be that difficult..

How do you do these fantastically good and informative photos ??
 

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earthworm said:
How do you do these fantastically good and informative photos ??
Thanks for the compliment... ;oops: It was not really done just to have fun with the alternator, I was in the middle of a small "project" when I discovered my engine probably would not survive the experience unless I did something about it first (as you know since you commented on my posts about the chains and bearings... ) The alternator and battery cables were incidental.

As for the pics etc., I did something similar for work a while ago. The camera and software are actually a few years old, but good enough to document car repairs... LOL

Here is the access to the upper alternator bolt, after the idler pulley and tensioner are removed. I actually had to soak the threads of the bolt with PB Blaster from the opposite side of the bracket, it took me a while to realize I was soaking just the head at first. Until I figured it out I was thinking of switching to the breaker bar (which is apparently how people snap the bracket, the aluminum casting cracks before the threads start to break loose)




The bracket has an insert at the head of the bolt - basically a steel bushing (b), and the head is recessed in it. The threads are at the tail (a).

 

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Wow nice pics. These pictures, and the text from the link in Cleve's repair sticky would certainly be comprehensive. Somebody (mark:D :D ) should combine them after it fresh in their mind to be stickied in Cleves thread!!!


Tboy:p
 

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Well, this explains why I could never get the tensioner bracket off! The alternator bolts through it! :evil:

I couldn't manage to fit a 3/8" ratchet and hex socket inbetween the alternator/tensioner bracket and the fender well. I used a 1/4" ratchet and socket and then slipped the handle to my small hydraulic jack over the ratchet handle for leverage. PMI, that's an S-K fine-tooth ratchet, isn't it? Those things are lifesavers in that engine compartment!
 

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Jeremy R. said:
PMI, that's an S-K fine-tooth ratchet, isn't it? Those things are lifesavers in that engine compartment!
Yes, it's the least expensive one of the fine-tooth ratchets. I got it from toolparadise.com along with one of the S-K thumbwheel ratchets, when I started to remember how little room there is to work in an engine compartment. It does not feel as solid as the older Pro series, but then it does not really have to be. The 10" 3/8 Pro ratchet can just about take the place of a 1/2 drive tool, if you slip something over the handle.

Now that my engine seems to be off the critical list, maybe I'll finish my alternator pages. The only thing I did not get to earlier was finding a brush kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know that the alt. bolts through the tensioner pully housing(whatever you want to call it) but Hanyes sas that you dont have to do that and you can take it out through the wheel well but just doing the 2 allen key bolts and the stuff that connects in the back.

Anyone want a Haynes manual?:evil:
(kidding)

(for now :roll: )
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well so far I got everything out and back in except the lower Alt bolt. Its all in the car and bolted expect for that, the problem is that the Alt will not go down to where the bolt can go through it, the opening is just a tad too small. So I guess I will try to file part of the Alt down to make it fit better into the opening. Unless there are better ideas?
 

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I just did mine a couple weeks ago and was lucky and didn't run into any major problems. I thought the lower bolt was much worse to get out than the top. I went in thru the wheel well with a long extension that would flex when enough torque was applied. Pulling the alternator out of its mounting was nerve wracking with all of that fragile alloy metal around. I probably should have used more PB Blaster.
 

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Two minor details :

Apply a little anti-seize to un-necessitate the use of PB Blaster in the future..
Assure that the alternator ground wire is in place(I guess one is there as rubber bushings are used)..

The trouble with the Haynes manual is that it is written for the English, RHD, automobiles.. It should have been set-up for the international market - which covers a great deal more customers..

Not only that, but the editing should have been a lot more thorough, and some of the silliness (degrees of difficulty), for one - deleted !

When Slaab4life and PMI, and a few others as well, collaborate on a manual, I will be first in line ...
 

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Marks900SE said:
...the Alt will not go down to where the bolt can go through it, the opening is just a tad too small. So I guess I will try to file part of the Alt down to make it fit better into the opening. Unless there are better ideas?
The alignment between the lower bracket, alternator, and upper bracket is not that accurate. I did a little filing also. Later I realized that if you insert the lower bolt loosely, and use it to guide the alternator into the upper bracket before you tighten the bracket down, it should work.
 

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Marks900SE said:
So I guess I will try to file part of the Alt down to make it fit better into the opening. Unless there are better ideas?
I tapped the bottom in with a rubber dead-blow mallet while the top was bolted in, but a little loose. It popped right in with a couple of whacks.
 

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check those metal bushings. that is what got in the way for me. I simply punched them out then put them partiall back in from the passenger side. i then was able to fit the alt in and slipped the bolts into place and tightened them up. the bolts pulled the bushings into place just fine.

good luck

ben
 

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1999 9-3 alternator removal

PMI, thanks for to great pictures and "phantom lines" in your photos! in your post#4 I just "drifted" the metal bushing you labelled "b" to the passenger side of the bracket about 2mm to gain some clearance during the reinstall. On my 9-3 I had to remove the brace that runs from the firewall to the strut towers in addition to the cruise control servo, other than that it was not a bad job to do. Without your help this would have been a real "Rubik's Cube" of a job! I really do miss my '89 900 though, sure was easier for jobs like this.
 

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I just did this job too. There is no way I could have pulled it off without the guidance of SC legend PMI.:cheesy: I never realized an alternator change could be so involved. Cracking some of those fasteners was the scariest thing since the transmission plugs.:lol: For those doing this job, be sure to thoroughly soak both sides of the alternator bolts and other fasteners with penetrant (as the tutorial says)!

uglide, why did you have to remove the brace?
 

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9-3 brace removal, response to jonnyfgroove!

after removal of the cruise control servo the alternator still wouldn't pass through, at least not that I could find, so I removed the tower brace-LOTS of room after that (I never was good at those little wire puzzles as a kid!). I actually considered replacing the voltage regulator with the alternator behind the engine... can you imagine that! In any event it's only 2 nuts per side and 3 hex cap screws in the middle so no biggie-you are right about the tightness of the 2 hex bolts, they are SCARY tight! I really expected something to break, even with my trusty KROIL penetrant! Make sure your 8MM allen is in perfect condition and is a high quality tool, I really feel badly for anyone who has gone through stripping of the socket head as I've read one member's nightmare!
 

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Thanks for the compliments.

With a lift, I believe a mechanic can separate the exhaust, loosen a couple other things, and get the alternator out the bottom, but I could not see a way to do it with stands. Rubik's cube is about right... :cheesy:

To make things more interesting, the instructions in the Haynes manual do not work on left-hand drive cars (!)

uglide1996 said:
I really do miss my '89 900 though, sure was easier for jobs like this.
Yes, it was. Never actually owned one, but I had a pretty close look at a couple.
 

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Most cars today are so much harder to work on. On one car I had, you had to lift the engine to get the water pump off. You could reach the bolts and get them loose, but one bolt was 1/2" too long to come out.


Do the engineers who design these things do this on purpose? Maybe its what they joke about when they get off work.
 

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Agreed. Ironically the NG900 is better than some other cars, like some Japanese cars from the same vintage that I have seen.
 
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