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I think he said he cut the shank end and was going to grind a flat to grab hold of.
That being said I think there are many operations on the 900 that would benefit from 1-2" more in overall length. Yes, it can be done now, but that extra inch or so would make it so much easier.
 

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Yeah I have to agree with you. When I had more than a few things to do on mine I was considering pulling the powerplant and do them all at once.
With a 40 year old car, no parts and no dealer support, it is hard to work on one and keep it drivable. It is why I didn't get too serious about fixing all the problems on mine till I retired.
It never was a daily driver for me but a long distance car, so it could still and did for more than a year at a time.
Having a good place to work and good equipment helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Alright so here I stand.
I cut down the thread tap into a stubby and had success chasing/cutting fresher threads. I tightened the crank screw down and it bit the threads - unfortunately, I had to loosen it bc the collar was not in proper position…when I went to tighten again, the bolt nearly went all the way in and then just started turning with no bite. I gave up for a bit and then today I had an idea - I found the old crank screw in a box of tools, and I cut the head off in order to free up the captive washer on the screw. I then put the washer in a Vice and used the 16mm1.5 thread tap to cut in threads and she mounted on the bolt perfectly. I was able to get it to bite nicely and tighten it up and put the belts on - put the engine back together.
So then something fun. Engine cranks but won’t start. I get one single bounce on the tachometer when I hit ignition…did I foul up the cps?? I have replaced one before but what a pain in the everything.
One single bounce on the tach. Pretty sure it’s the cps. A bit of oil did come out when I took the vibration damper off the first time, is that indicative of a oil seal failure? Could the oil have fouled the sensor? Maybe I hit it or something bc remember, the car engine started in order to strip my threads in the first place.
Yeah so gonna play around more tomorrow
 

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What you describe does sound like CPS failure. You definitely need to be very careful down there - none of that stuff is available anymore and there is lots of fragile aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I have gone ahead and ordered the new CPS...88 bucks. More Fun. What a PITA.
Any one think i can take the old one and try to clean her up a bit? I'm fairly certain that it could've gotten fouled with oil or something. I haven't replaced one of these in about 7 years. Did the whole wire splicing and all that - it was a successful procedure tho.

PS If I wasn't able to get that Crank Screw to bite, I would've tried a Helicoil Thread Saver. Who knows, I might have to do that anyway!

My Saab Story.

Anybody have a turn signal stalk for sale while I'm at it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
i don't even know what that is to be honest.
Looks like I'll learn today!
now i will say, i have replaced the vibration damper in the past and did not have to do that...in the picture I posted above, does it look like that?
 

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If you flip over your old damper, there should be a sheet metal ring that has some cut-outs in it. it is what the CPS "reads" for crank position. Newer cars (not just Saabs) use a mag pick-up and "tone ring" with one or more double tangs, The Saab you have uses a different system and a Hall Effect: detector instead of a tone ring and mag pick-up you may be more used to.
 

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Yep, be carful that it is not bent where cut-outs are the hall effect pickup goes on either side and it must not hit the pickup when rotating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Even worse actually. The mounting holes don’t line up no matter what orientation onto the new damper. I would just drill some holes in it, except the plate doesn’t even sit flush on the new one, the hole in it is just slightly too small. I can probably persuade it on…but part of me wants to just send back and get a different one…
Ideas?
 

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The turbo's don't use that system, may be the balancer is from a turbo or an 8V engine?
Since the timing is set by the shutter ring, any holes would have to be very accurately indexed so as to keep the timing correct, you CAN NOT adjust the timing with the distributor on the NA 16 valve. Timing is set by the electronics and they get the crank position reference from the shutter wheel, so it all begins with that, if the shutter is in the wrong position relative to TDC on the crank, everything else will be off.
That being said, I don't have any experience with the NA engines or those later than the mid 80's. I thought all balancers were the same but just the NA's had the shutter wheel, but from what your experience is, that would be incorrect.
It sound like there is a mis-match of parts, so back to square one and try and get what you need.
If your original balancer isn't too badly damaged places like balancer doctor or similar can repair your old one.
May be someone with more NA experience can guide you on why the shutter ring will not fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Glad I read that before I drilled.
That makes a lot of sense.
The resistance I’ve endured is palpable.
I’m…at a loss of words. I know a few that would fit this situation but I won’t say them here.
Ah, square one, my old friend how are you?
 

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I did my first transmission overhaul, on a VW bus, 3 times and it still jumped out of 4th gear.
The 4th time I found the mistake in the Service Manual and put the concave thrust washer on the right way.
It can be frustrating.
 
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