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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys.
I skipped the step in removing my busted harmonic balancer and forgot to remove the front pully before putting the special socket on with a breaker bar and bump starting the engine. I ended up pinning the bar to the firewall and really messed up about the first 3 threads on the screw. I loosened the engine mount and used a scissor jack against the firewall to buy me the extra space to get the breaker bar out. I hope I didn't totally knacker the interior screw grooves in the engine, but I can not get this screw started after successfully replacing the busted pully (it had separated fully at the rubber.) I have gone ahead and bought a new screw. I know it is a 27mm bolt, but I may have to carefully tap the crank hole...I can cut down the old bolt if anyone knows a solution. This car is basically in Very Annoying shape after I hit the deer I told you about in previous threads. My first day having it back on the road after replacing grill and headlights, the harmonic balancer split and stopped charging my battery and turning my water pump...coolant vaporized and eventually started going onto my floor, so that seal on the heater valve is hopefully not shot but...who tf knows anymore. grrr man if i'd only done it with instructions rather than from memory she'd at least be running.

ANYWAY, does anyone have any suggestions on if i need to chase threads inside the crank, how I should go about performing such a feat? Anyone know the thread size or the actual screw specifications?

Thanks for the read, hope all is well with you all.
JRiNVENTOR
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is the crank pulley bolt damaged or the crank?
The bolt is damaged, and I pray the crank is not. if the new bolt doesnt thread, the crank threads are surely in poor shape - at least the first threads in the beginning of the sleeve
 

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The bolt is M16-1.5 IIRC - I don't think it's something you can find generically, but you can probably find a bolt with those threads (oil drain plugs etc.) to check the threads on the crank. Those threads are carried through to the last B235 made in 2009... Maybe the bolt is the same too, in which case finding one shouldn't be hard.

TBH I doubt the crank is damaged, especially if the bolt is. Probably the bolt took the hit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok cool. I have the new bolt on the way, it should be here next week. I'll post back what happens, thanks for the info!
 

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Any question about the threads in the crank, run a tap through it to restore the first few threads before installing the new bolt, otherwise you can damage the new bolt threads as well.
A 16mm tap may not be at your local hardware store but can be had from places like Grainger, MacMaster-Carr etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey guys.
So I'm definitely going to need to tap the first few to get it cleaned up...
Do we all agree that the size of the tap is M16-1.5?
Thanks for the help sorry it's taken me a bit to get back, Summer has been busy!

JR
 

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You can try grinding the damaged threads off the old bolt, making a few longitudinal cuts on the threads for 'chip clearance', and using that as a chaser. The tapered, ground end can guide it straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thought I still had the old bolt but it's been thrown out with a batch of rust.
Any ideas on the tap size?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I’m having a hell of a time finding somebody w a thread gauge. Driving me nuts. Or me bolts. Both are applicable
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Found! Can confirm crank bolt for 1992 Saab C900 is in fact M16-1.5 - I’ll let you know how I get along! Thanks again. Onward and upward
 

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Good to hear, I thought it was but didn't want to steer you wrong. My NAPA and Hardware store both have thread gauges to verify stuff, so a place you can check if you need too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I went to Advanced Auto and they didn't have one - finally went to an indy and he had a die to check against! off to harbor freight cuz i cannot find a tap locally.
 

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I would call ahead. I don't think you're going to find this in stock at any regular retail store. Maybe a Grainger or Fastenal, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Very Lucky....what is unlucky or just Saab-like, is that the firewall doesn't allow the clearance to even get the damn tap in there so i cut it down...but still need to throw the square shape on the stock of the tap. i was not, unfortunately, able to hand thread the tap at all. I'm gutted at the idea. Mostly because it was my own fault and if I had just slowed down, used a guide, and taken off the bolt-on portion of the vibration damper, I would not be in this mess. it's a bad mess. getting leverage to get the tap in there is going to be annoying at best. hoisting the engine out is becoming an idea, but I've never taken the engine off the trans in my "Saab Career" and frankly I'm becoming incredibly frustrated and strapped for time.

Thanks for all the support my friends.
JRi
 

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You definitely do not want to even try to take the engine off the transmission in the car. I did that once as a "shortcut" in a junkyard and it was horrifying.

If you seriously bear down you can get an engine out the first time in six to eight hours. It's a ****ton of work though. But at this point it's the safe option IMO. If you blow up the crank you are seriously hosed.

I'm not sure you can really cut down a tap... The nose is specially designed to allow it to thread in, and if you cut the head off you've nothing to grip.

You might search for "stubby tap" as that's a thing, or maybe consider Jim's suggestion to modify a bolt and use it as a thread chaser. You could potentially order an M16 bolt or six to sacrifice?
 
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