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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed the fuel filter yesterday and I can understand that the initial start would be difficult because the new fuel filter is empty. But after a day of on and off driving (drove to work, went out for lunch, stopped here and there), it still takes a while to start if I let the car sit for a little while. Is it normal???
 

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ches said:
I changed the fuel filter yesterday and I can understand that the initial start would be difficult because the new fuel filter is empty. But after a day of on and off driving (drove to work, went out for lunch, stopped here and there), it still takes a while to start if I let the car sit for a little while. Is it normal???
Nope, it sounds like your system isn't sealed properly. Check your connections and see if you have a loose hose. Look for a leak or air hole. Could also have a bad check valve.
 

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My car has been slow to start up recently also...:roll: and one thing I've noticed lately is more of a gas smell when she does start up. Could this also be a valve or fuel line problem? I still haven't seen any fuel on the ground but there has been a definite increase in gas smell when I start up.
 

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Check for clean/tight connections.

There may not be any liquid as evidence - its the vapors you smell - this can be a tough one......
 

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I haven't changed my filter yet. Its going to be changed this summer but isn't there copper or rubber O rings on both sides to the fuel line connection? were they checked and replaced? If not, the system won't be pressurized
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hkayssi said:
I haven't changed my filter yet. Its going to be changed this summer but isn't there copper or rubber O rings on both sides to the fuel line connection? were they checked and replaced? If not, the system won't be pressurized
I didn't know they need to be replaced. I just checked the filter and there is definitely a leak. I ran my fingers on it and can smell gas on my fingers. Does anybody know the size of the washers? I don't really have a way to bring the washers to the store to compare.
 

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ches said:
I didn't know they need to be replaced. I just checked the filter and there is definitely a leak. I ran my fingers on it and can smell gas on my fingers. Does anybody know the size of the washers? I don't really have a way to bring the washers to the store to compare.
Those are crush washers and can't be reused AFAIK. Once crushed they no longer reseat properly on a new filter.
 

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Yeah, as hkayssi said, those washers probably shouldn't be reused. When I replaced my fuel filter, I had sealing problems causing fuel to slowly leak until I replaced the washers. Leaving the car off for 30 minutes or so would prolong starting. I would definitely reccommend getting new washers. If you can smell or see fuel leaking, it's probably just a sealing problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
KaiserDanimal said:
Yeah, as hkayssi said, those washers probably shouldn't be reused. When I replaced my fuel filter, I had sealing problems causing fuel to slowly leak until I replaced the washers. Leaving the car off for 30 minutes or so would prolong starting. I would definitely reccommend getting new washers. If you can smell or see fuel leaking, it's probably just a sealing problem.
Do you know the ID and OD of the washers by chance? I went and gave the nuts another 1/4 turn on each side, they are now really tight. If that doesn't do it, I'll have no choice by to replace the washers. I think only one side has a bit of seepage. I'll know tomorrow morning when i start the car.
 

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It could also be the check valve in the fuel delivery line. When it works, the fuel is supposed to stay in the line and keep it primed. When its broke the fuel just emptys back into the tank. Taking longer for the pump to push it all back into the line.


Unfortunetely the valves are on top of the pump, and usually this means dropping the exhaust, and fuel tank. Or cutting a big hole under the rear seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Seems to be ok. Just turned the key and went this morning. I'll try again at lunch, I think the extra 1/4 turn did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmm.... maybe not??

It started fine this morning, and it started pretty good at lunch time too. But when I went back to work from lunch, it didn't start quite as good, took quite a few cranks. I checked the filter and both sides were dry, ran my fingers on them and didn't have any gas smells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So the problem is still there. I've double made sure that fuel no longer leaks from the fuel filter. The car starts fine every morning but when left parked for over 20 mins, the first try on starting is horrible. It will crank forever before the fuel kicks in. I would sometimes just let it crank a few times and then turn it off; then turn it back on it starts on an instant. Does anybody have any insight to this problem?
 

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I feel your pain. My 9-3 is experiencing the same issues. The Saab mechanic I spoke to thinks it's a check valve not working. He said that a lot of check valves get damaged or stop working when new fuel pumps are installed. A check valve is only $10 on partstrain.com.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
99 9-3 SE Vert Owner said:
I feel your pain. My 9-3 is experiencing the same issues. The Saab mechanic I spoke to thinks it's a check valve not working. He said that a lot of check valves get damaged or stop working when new fuel pumps are installed. A check valve is only $10 on partstrain.com.
What kind of diagnostics is required to find out which check valve is not working? The car starts perfectly before the fuel filter change. I don't the fuel filter can be installed backwards, can it? The 2 nuts are different sizes. It is frustrating because the idea of changing the filter is just a preventive maintenance and now it actually causes more headache. Plus my SRS light just turned on last night and now it won't turn off!!
 

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Question---
which check valve are you guys referring to?

The four washers/bushings were available with the OEM Bosch filter at the dealer down the road, here in Milford, NH.

edit for content.......
I actually bought the washers for about $6 at the dealer, but I bought the OEM Bosch filter at Robbins Auto Parts for a fraction of the cost.
So, if it comes to it, the dealer should sell those to you sans filter.

jmcg
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
jmcg said:
Question---
which check valve are you guys referring to?

The four washers/bushings were available with the OEM Bosch filter at the dealer down the road, here in Milford, NH.

jmcg
I don't know where these check valves are either. My mistake is getting a FRAM filter which doesn't come with any washers. But I've checked over and over again that there is no leakage at both ends so I am eliminating that problem.
 
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