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Discussion Starter #1
Hey!

My GT17 has started to say goodbye, and I was thinking that I could use this opportunity to upgrade to a TD04. I have a shopping cart with some stuff I think I need to replace the turbo - do I have everything though? Do I possibly have too much?

272242

Is there any good guides for this swap? I also don't have a single tool myself, is there any lists for required tools so I know what to buy for this swap? Any tips, tricks, etc. would be greatly appreciated :D


-Justin
 

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It's been a while since I did the swap on my car. The intercooler and associated pipes are recommended as well. The double pass stock IC is not good. If you're doing this much work, I'd suggest an upgrade.

This job is fairly extensive and without a nice assortment of tools it will make you frustrated more than anything.

Putting the 9⁵ Aero cobra on requires milling the compressor housing. You'll also need different coolant and oil feed lines with associated banjo fittings and sealing washers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It's been a while since I did the swap on my car. The intercooler and associated pipes are recommended as well. The double pass stock IC is not good. If you're doing this much work, I'd suggest an upgrade.

This job is fairly extensive and without a nice assortment of tools it will make you frustrated more than anything.

Putting the 9⁵ Aero cobra on requires milling the compressor housing. You'll also need different coolant and oil feed lines with associated banjo fittings and sealing washers.
I have a T7 engine, i’ve read that the GT17 coolant and oil lines fit straight to the TD04 with the banjo fittings and washers? I also havent read anything about the intercooler or the compressor housing milling :eek:

I’m totally fine with buying tools, thats not a problem. Just going to be fun riding my bike back and fourth to our local auto parts store :D I found some guide but it was for swapping the T25 to a TD04 which I assume requires more fiddling than the GT17 to TD04 swap? ?
Maptun sells these parts i’m considering ordering as a ”ready kit” for swapping.
 

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Intercooler and hoses appear to be the same as the GT17 from what I see in the EPC. If you don't have a copy, download it, you can compare parts #'s and figure out what hoses and pipe are the same. I'd be concerned about matching the pipes... I think it's just the ones on the turbo itself that vary but I'm not sure.

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I can't give you an exact tool list since I've never done the job, but I can tell you some of the things I know you need from swapping various components that I've dealt with that I know you have to remove/install. you might need more. You could look at the T25 conversion guide at the Platonoff site and maybe figure out more: Saab DIY at platonoff.com and 05.11.2005: Saab NG900 Turbo Upgrade - photo.platonoff.com .

You'll need all these to work on your Saab so none is a bad investment:
  • 3/8" drive ratchet wrench
  • 3/8" metric socket set, from 10mm to 14mm for this job, but up to 19mm in general
  • 3/8" extensions - 3", 6" - if you can get a stubby 1.5" one, that never hurts but I don't think it's required
  • 3/'8" breaker bar with a short 1' pipe to get some leverage. Might be able to use a pipe on the ratchet if you can get one to fit the handle... not what you're supposed to do to a ratchet, they break, but I did it before I knew better (and broke a few)
  • Set of Torx ("star") driver bits that fit 3/8" ratchet - At least T25 & T30. I'd opt for a set if available but I think the two might cover this job.
  • Torx drivers (screwdriver type) t25 & t30 (useful all over the car; could get a set but the only other one I know of on our Saabs is T20 for the sun visors). Might be able to use 3/8 drive Torx but you won't regret having the drivers on a Saab.
  • Large Waterpump/Channel lock pliers for hose clamps
  • A 1/4" drive socket set or some "nut drivers" for the under shields and the clamps on the intercooler hoses. You need 8mm for the under shields and 7mm for the intercooler hoses. You might need the ratchet and some short and long extensions vs. a nut-driver for some of the hoses depending on where the clamp screw is positioned on the hose (random). Given the choice, I'd opt for a set from at least 7mm to 13mm as the larger (12mm, 13mm) on the small ratchet might come in handy on this job (don't recall if absolutely needed). Alternative is a 1/4" socket set and a "hand driver" that takes those sockets... then you have any size small socket you need in a hand driver. Very handy.
  • maybe 12mm and 13mm combo wrenches, one or both, can't recall, but I think you need those; maybe a socket will work (depends on whether the wastegate can be installed ON the turbo vs. has to be installed separately).
  • Large regular / flat screwdriver to pry with and some smaller drivers for miscellaneous use.
  • MAPP gas torch for the turbo and down-pipe nuts, especially if they haven't been off recently. If you can't use a torch where you are, they make a freeze spray/penetrating oil that would be my second choice.
  • A good Penetrating oil for use on turbo nuts. I don't know what's best where you live.Some parrafin (candle wax) might also be useful for that with the torch.
If this is a "once I start I have no car" job, then start putting penetrating oil on the turbo downpipe nuts (3) and the turbo anchor nuts (4) a few days before with a cold engine. Do it again a couple days in a row, then the night before the job, then the morning of the job, and once you start the job. This will be the only "difficult" part of the swap. The oil will work it's way in there over a few days and with luck they come off easy.
 

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On the parts: there's an o-rings where 9179334 fits into the oil pan. I don't see it in the list but the photos are small. You need one as the old will be baked.

What's 32227120? Got a link?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
On the parts: there's an o-rings where 9179334 fits into the oil pan. I don't see it in the list but the photos are small. You need one as the old will be baked.

What's 32227120? Got a link?
I’ll check what o-rings I’d need when I get home and can install the EPC program.

Heres a link to the part:
 

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Are you going to install 06-10 9-5 TD04 or older?
If 06-10 version, your shopping cart is perfect.
If older, you only need adapter set (01-10470).
 

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Are you going to install 06-10 9-5 TD04 or older?
If 06-10 version, your shopping cart is perfect.
If older, you only need adapter set (01-10470).
Yeah, i'm planning to install the 06 to 10 TD04 from the 9-5 Aero.

I guess this means i'm good to go and can order these parts? :D
 

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I’ll check what o-rings I’d need when I get home and can install the EPC program.

Heres a link to the part:
Oh, I see. That will go into the new style PCV port on the top of the cobra. You will have to cut the banjo fitting off your pCV hard pipe and insert that... it will couple to the pipe with the rubber hose. Good solution.

If you don't want to cut any stock pipes, you could just get a longer hose and run it back to the PCV line near the TB from that fitting.
 

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Hey!

My GT17 has started to say goodbye, and I was thinking that I could use this opportunity to upgrade to a TD04. I have a shopping cart with some stuff I think I need to replace the turbo - do I have everything though? Do I possibly have too much?


Is there any good guides for this swap? I also don't have a single tool myself, is there any lists for required tools so I know what to buy for this swap? Any tips, tricks, etc. would be greatly appreciated :D


-Justin
Justin,

Thank you for your post at SAAB Central!

The GARRETT GT17 turbocharger was specifically designed to reduce lag due to the lightweight rotating assembly. An average working lifetime for this design for most SAAB applications has been 100-125K miles. The MITSUBISHI TD04HL-15T will find an increased service life as compared to the GT17, but may not provide an engine horsepower provision unless planning to do accommodating engine modifications such as ECU, exhaust system, intercooler, etc. Many customers opt to do the TD04HL upgrade if experiencing multiple problems relative to GT17 failures, but may be surprised with the increase in turbocharger lag created by the TD04HL turbocharger's heavier rotating assembly. Engine horsepower would also remain the same until the additional modifications are employed.

Thanks again for your post!

Sincerely,

Gary K.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Turbo is now swapped, ended up taking the car and parts to a mechanic I trust.

Next i’m going to get the car tuned, but i’m told I need to check the color of my injectors (they should be either red or brown?). How do I quickly check what injectors I have?
 

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Look? :)

Just remove the little cover over the fuel rail and they're staring right at you. You may want to get a cloth some purple power - they are often filthy and it can be hard to distinguish red from brown.
 

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Always on the lookout for u-pull upgrades, I took a look in the EPC.

What year is your car?

From what I see, starting in 2001 the 205L, 205R, and 235R all used the 9181322. They all cross to 55557323 which was the part on the 2006+ 235R. There is a different injector for the <=2000 205L (9188707) so if you have one of those years, you need an upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Look? :)

Just remove the little cover over the fuel rail and they're staring right at you. You may want to get a cloth some purple power - they are often filthy and it can be hard to distinguish red from brown.
Well damn, that was simple. They were brown, took maybe 2 seconds to find them :ROFLMAO:

Always on the lookout for u-pull upgrades, I took a look in the EPC.

What year is your car?

From what I see, starting in 2001 the 205L, 205R, and 235R all used the 9181322. They all cross to 55557323 which was the part on the 2006+ 235R. There is a different injector for the <=2000 205L (9188707) so if you have one of those years, you need an upgrade.
I have a 2001, so I'm assuming i'm all good. :cool:
 
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