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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I am currently trying to fix a neg camber in the rear. I cannot see how the GenuineSaab Shims would fit on my car.. There are two metal studs that seem to align the hub and the axle..(hub mounting).. Has anyone encountered this? The shim does not have cutouts for these studs.

Thanks!
 

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Not sure what their shims look like. But the standard alignment shims I use need to have tabs removed for where bolts are.
 

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Could you take a picture? the only thing I can think that sounds studs are the raised area in the four corners where the spacer between the backing plate and rear axle sits on, the shims would sit on top of those just like the spacer.
 

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I am not familiar with your car, but if in fact, that is the wheel bearing and if the caliper mounting bracket is permanent part of the rear axle assembly to which the bearing is bolted, then shimming the wheel bearing to change camber will cause the brake caliper to run out of true to the rotor and bad things will happen.

Hopefully this is not the case and the bracket for the caliper is bolted to the wheel bearing as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, so I should continue to loosen the bolts and at a certain point, I should be able to slip in the shim?
 

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I am not familiar with your car, but if in fact, that is the wheel bearing and if the caliper mounting bracket is permanent part of the rear axle assembly to which the bearing is bolted, then shimming the wheel bearing to change camber will cause the brake caliper to run out of true to the rotor and bad things will happen.

Hopefully this is not the case and the bracket for the caliper is bolted to the wheel bearing as well.
Huh? you shim the whole hub assembly (which the rotor is attached to) and the backing plate (which the caliper is bolted to) since the spacer is placed between the axle and backing plate prior to the hub so there is no issue like you are alluding too. You would have to shim between the backing plate and hub to have a problem, and that's virtually impossible to do since it would require dissembling the whole rear brake system, rather than just loosening a couple of nuts and dropping a shim or two in there.

The correct order is: Axle, Shim (if you fit them), OEM Spacer, Backing Plate, Hub.
 

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That looks like the bottom of the hub to me.

When I used the shims I placed them in from the top. I had negative camber I was trying to correct. Placement at the top of the hub moved the top of my wheel outward. Placement of the shims at the top and bolts should line up.

Actually got 2 of them in there on each side and corrected about 1.3 degrees of negative camber out. Was thinking about slipping in just one more on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks JakeJM79!

I fitted the shims in the order that you have posted. Perfect.

I didn't look close enough at the hub/mounting before loosening. After looking at the other side I can see that those spacers always leave a small gap between the plate and axle.

I got my rears to -1.4 and -1.5. This is the lowest "in spec" value of the hunter alignment computer's printout. GS recommends -1.. Would it be worth adding another shim to each side? I could get it to -1.1 and -1.2.
 

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Thanks JakeJM79!

I fitted the shims in the order that you have posted. Perfect.

I didn't look close enough at the hub/mounting before loosening. After looking at the other side I can see that those spacers always leave a small gap between the plate and axle.

I got my rears to -1.4 and -1.5. This is the lowest "in spec" value of the hunter alignment computer's printout. GS recommends -1.. Would it be worth adding another shim to each side? I could get it to -1.1 and -1.2.
Leave it, more negative camber equals better handling, that is unless your car is eating tires.
 

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I did mine both to about -1.0 since I have always had issues with the inside shoulders of my tires wearing out, I don't know why the WIS and alignment shops spec for so much lower than GS does, but I went with what they have.
 
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