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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It works fine, but it's angry. Any idea how long I have until it starts screaming at me?

Last time (different 93), I came down from the top to replace it, but many think it's easier from the bottom. Thoughts?

Edit: I just dug through the service history I got with the car. The compressor only has about 14K miles on it.
 

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Ugh compressor on a OG9-3/NG900. It’s a pretty straight forward job till you get to that last bolt that runs under the fender frame. There isnt much room to work or turn a wrench so it takes a while. If I were to have to do it again I’d consider dropping the engine a little supported by a jack by unbolting the engine mount from the frame to get more clearance from the fender frame.

Pull it out from underneath is the way to go.
 

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Three possible sources of growl:

  • Compressor bearing (in pulley). Pull the belt and check the bearing for wiggle.
  • Expansion valve. I wouldn't have believed it could growl, but back when my car was under factory warranty it started to growl. I took it to the dealer and they checked it out... replaced the expansion valve... and the growl went away. Perhaps it causes compressor oddities, I dunno. But replacing it fixed the problem. Go figure.
  • Compressor itself has internal issue. I don't know how to diagnose. Perhaps gauges would show you some funkiness.
 

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  • Expansion valve. I wouldn't have believed it could growl, but back when my car was under factory warranty it started to growl. I took it to the dealer and they checked it out... replaced the expansion valve... and the growl went away. Perhaps it causes compressor oddities, I dunno. But replacing it fixed the problem. Go figure.
Bob, I think you're on to something with the expansion valve, and I'm going to look into having mine replaced. I had a new drier put on with the new compressor... Will having the expansion valve replaced necessitate having to replace the new drier again? I hope not.
 

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Bob, I think you're on to something with the expansion valve, and I'm going to look into having mine replaced. I had a new drier put on with the new compressor... Will having the expansion valve replaced necessitate having to replace the new drier again? I hope not.
You don’t “have” to….I didn’t on my 9-3 back in the day and it was the original. System worked fine as far as I could tell. Changing the expansion valve is a really quick job so your system won’t be open for to long. I also did this way back in college and funds were tighter back then.

CAVEAT - WIS says the longest it can be opened and exposed is 15 minutes if there hasn’t been a major leak. Anything more than that or for a major leak/rupture it says to replace.
 
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Bob, I think you're on to something with the expansion valve, and I'm going to look into having mine replaced. I had a new drier put on with the new compressor... Will having the expansion valve replaced necessitate having to replace the new drier again? I hope not.

When you change the valve, plug the lines with something to keep the humidity out
The rule with "real" A/C guys is that if you open the system, you change the drier. But I suppose if you open it and cap the lines quickly, you could cheat. The issue is that there's no way to really measure how much moisture gets in.

One easy way to cap the lines if you want to go that route is to use fingers cut off a nitrile glove. Slip it over the line and put a rubber band or small zip tie around it. For plugs, check the local hardware store in those endless little cardboard boxes with the bins. They usually have assorted rubber stoppers at the larger stores but you'll need some tiny ones for the firewall side.
 

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Yes the rule is anytime a system is opened,,,,,the drier gets replaced. But if you have a new one on there, & the system was previously vacuumed down real good. U can generally get away without replacing the accumulator again. But you definately want to plug the lines airtight asap . You right Bob Saabit!👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have any of you replaced the expansion valve? It looks like a very quick job. I would imagine plugging the lines would take more time than putting new O-rings on and replacing the valve.
 

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Have any of you replaced the expansion valve? It looks like a very quick job. I would imagine plugging the lines would take more time than putting new O-rings on and replacing the valve.
I’ve done the expansion valve. Longest part I remember taking was the 2 Allen head screws.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Saaberachi and NahumCC: Why did you replace it? I'm not convinced it's my problem.
 

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It was just part of replacing all components for a customer once. Ive never really had one go bad that i can remember. Usually just clean everything. Fresh o-rings, drier & a good flush & vacuum are generally sufficiant unless a compressor has shot craps, ect. Also if the system has an orifice tube that usually gets replaced or at least the screen cleaned out
 

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Saaberachi and NahumCC: Why did you replace it? I'm not convinced it's my problem.
I had ruled out every other part of the A/C system as being bad and had no leaks so that was the last thing it could be.
 
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What were the symptoms?
I had no cold air. Compressor would engage and disengage which verified the pressure switch was telling the ACC ECU to engage and disengage. Pressure gauges indicated both low pressure and high pressure side of the system were holding pressure.

I added a uv due to the system after that to double check and found no leaks so by default the expansion valve had failed in the closed position not letting Freon expand into the evaporator core.

Swapped it out and got a good charge on it and on optest I had cold air……Go figure a couple weeks later the condenser end cracked open so I had to replace that and the receiver dryer at that point lol.
 
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