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Funny thing you mentioned that this all happened after a car wash. We just had heavy rain this past week to the point that the streets were flooding and my 2004 9-3 was at one point in water that was as high as the sidewalk.

Sadly, my check engine light came on this week and when I hooked up my reader I got the following codes:

P2122
P2138

I think its somewhat related to your P2135 code because it behaves very similar to what you described.

So this may be a sign that these pedal voltage related codes are caused by water exposure.

If water truly IS the cause, then I think we could rule out the possibility that this is caused by a faulty wire harness or any other physical damage / splicing in the wires themselves - i.e. no need to be wiggling wires or taking off the wire harness / protective wrap. Also - the water in this case would have most likely come from below so it may be the case that the damaged section of the circuitry is that which is located in an exposed section of the car's underbody down near the street - i.e. not located in any part that is up above by the engine where it is safely covered from water by the hood.

Of course, this is just my own analysis and I could be jumping to conclusions, but I'm just trying to contribute with my own evidence and logic as much as possible.

Been a few months since any of your posts. Any new discoveries? I look forward to joining in the efforts so that we can all find out the proper solution.

Is there anything that has not yet been attempted to solve these issues? I'm ready to roll up my sleeves and try working on this but don't want to repeat the same things others have done to no avail.

Please lets keep this discussion going!

Here are my symptoms: Check engine light turns on and car was drives slow, not responsive when pedal pressed down (Limp Home Mode). Check engine light turns off on its own overnight and drives fine next day at first but then check engine light turns back on and pedal becomes unresponsive again (back into Limp Home Mode). :cry:

Hey I would trace the connectors from the pedal through all the way to the other end. I am talking about disconnecting checking for corrosion and cleaning. Look in the WIS (about 5 connectors). I did it to my car and the error code has not come back for a couple of months
 

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Same problem

I have the same P2135 problem. On Wednesday of this week I got a new pedal assembly installed and today I got the CEL again with the same code. It would seem the code is generated from the Throttle Control Sensor inside of the throttle body, correct?

Has anyone replaced the throttle body and had this problem go away. Any new updates on this? I plan on taking the car back to the dealer on Monday but would like to go with a solution rather than just throwing darts at the problem...

KNG
 

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I have the same P2135 problem. On Wednesday of this week I got a new pedal assembly installed and today I got the CEL again with the same code. It would seem the code is generated from the Throttle Control Sensor inside of the throttle body, correct?

Has anyone replaced the throttle body and had this problem go away. Any new updates on this? I plan on taking the car back to the dealer on Monday but would like to go with a solution rather than just throwing darts at the problem...

KNG
Check my post date about, I still have had no error related to the pedal...I also changed the pedal and it didn't fix the problem
 

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I opened the peal and cleaned it. Not really much in there but a PCB and some "brushes" that pick up the position of the pedal.

I still have the same issue on my car. It goes into limp mode, I get the same error. I noticed that when my car goes into limp mode I try to "reset the pedal". I turn off the car. take the key out. press the CLUTCH and GAS PEDAL all the way down. Put the key back in the ignition. Start the car (the CLUTCH and GAS PEDAL ARE STILL PRESS ALL THE WAY DOWN) you will notice the car will not accelerate, it will the just idling. They I let go of the gas and clutch. This will fix the problem 70% of the time. Sometimes it will take a few tries.

Can anybody tell me where the connector are that go from the peal to the throttle body are?? I am asking because last week my AC blower went out. I was going to remove it.Well I reconnected the conector on the blower and POW! it came on. So maybe I have the same issue with the PEDAL POSTITION SENSOR.

I forgot to mention I replaved the pedal and I still have the same problems so I am confident the issue is not the pedal but some place downline.....

Hello: i tried your pedal trick, and my car just cranks, it NEVER turns over to even idle? Is there any reason why?
 

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I had the code p2122. after doing my research I cleaned the MAP sensor and that seemed to solve the problem. I have a 2004 9-3 Linear. I am posting this message 3 weeks after. No more CEL.
 

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From the WIS:

P2135

Throttle position sensor circuit; Plausibility fault between circuit 1 and 2

Symptom:
Fault indicator lamp
Cruise not working
limp home

Fault criteria:
Difference in voltage between throttle position sensors 1 and 2 is 4-8%, depending on position of throttle (4% for unactuated pedal, 8% for depressed pedal)

System reaction:
Correction of mass air flow/combustion for fuel calculation is blocked
Limited acceleration and idle function
Cruise control blocked
Secondary air switched off

WIS basically advises checking the wiring harnesses for breaks/shorts.

This is a bit of a weird one. I would remove the plastic engine shroud and see if anything got wet.

We have had some other TPS problem threads lately. I have described elsewhere (paraphrased the WIS, actually) how this works. Basically the combined output of TPS1 and TPS2 always sums to 5 V. This checksum is used by the ECM for fault detection in the TPS.

I can't find the TPS part number in the EPC. I'm not sure it's separate from the throttle body. The EPC implies that it is. It refers you to section 2-5500, which is charge air plumbing. Unfortunately the TPS is not shown there!! Maybe someone else can find this part #.
Help Help,
I am Facing a problem with My Saab 9-3 2005 , check engine light, LHM, no acceleration, high consume of gas, I have changed 3 TB, sent her to Saab workshops no one helped me, now the mechanic is telling me it is failure in the ECU, even though I remember the codes were TBS, and circuit something Failure ...
can anyone tell me what to do exactly with photos please, where are the wires should I check send me photos how can I know they are fine or not ?
 

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Help Help,
I am Facing a problem with My Saab 9-3 2005 , check engine light, LHM, no acceleration, high consume of gas, I have changed 3 TB, sent her to Saab workshops no one helped me, now the mechanic is telling me it is failure in the ECU, even though I remember the codes were TBS, and circuit something Failure ...
can anyone tell me what to do exactly with photos please, where are the wires should I check send me photos how can I know they are fine or not ?
Please get the car scanned and bring us all codes. Any OBD2 reader will do this. Thanks.
 

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The issue of p2135, p0638 and p1681 has become so rampant that it might deserve a sticky. Some observations:

The codes seem to be temperature (cold) related as all the posted complaints note the onset with cold weather
The codes are throttle body position related (unlike p2138 which is pedal position related)
According to the wiring diagrams, The throttle body connects to the ECU via 2 junctions, the J33 and J34. ( the pedal position sensor connects to the ECU via the H102-1 and H24-2(the one under the battery) connectors)

I too, have these codes coming up with the cold weather, triggering the check engine light. As the check engine light comes on, the engine goes into limp home mode, which causes lack of power and acceleration from a full stop but once the car gets going, there is almost normal power.

What I have also found as a symptom is that the engine surges (but not at idle). My take on this is since the throttle body is getting mixed electrical signals, the throttle responds with mixed acceleration.

There is no cable connecting the gas pedal with the throttle body. Instead, an electrical signal(s) is sent to the throttle body where there is a small motor which turns the throttle plate in response to the pedal position. My theory is that the motor gets lazy and does not respond correctly. Also, dirt in the throttle body may cause the throttle plate to stick or not close completely.

Having said that, I just recently cleaned and coated the pins at the H24-2 connector under the battery with Stabilant22. Did the same to the pins at the connector to the throttle body. It did not cure the problem. I tried the throttle reset of starting the car with the pedal to the floor as described in posts above. It would cure for a minute or two, then the check engine light would come back on and limp mode would resume.

Today, I put Stabilant 22 on the pins of the controller attached to the battery case and cleaned the throttle body with a clean rag and isoprophel alcohol. The temperature today reached 40 so at the moment, she is running like a top. I need a spell of cold weather to see if the codes come back.

I am suspecting that at the end of the day, I will need to replace the throttle body, as that seems to be where others are going to find their cures. My car is a 2007. I bought it last spring when the weather was warm but the check engine light was on with the above codes which I cleared. I was good all summer and fall until the weather finally turned cold. The service history shows the throttle body having been replaced at 75,000 miles. It now has 140,000 miles. Perhaps a throttle body is only good for about 70,000 miles?
I will keep everyone posted on how I progress. Anyone else want to chime in on this?
 

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I am suspecting that at the end of the day, I will need to replace the throttle body, as that seems to be where others are going to find their cures. My car is a 2007. I bought it last spring when the weather was warm but the check engine light was on with the above codes which I cleared. I was good all summer and fall until the weather finally turned cold. The service history shows the throttle body having been replaced at 75,000 miles. It now has 140,000 miles. Perhaps a throttle body is only good for about 70,000 miles?
I will keep everyone posted on how I progress. Anyone else want to chime in on this?
Windsor did you ever replace the throttle body? Did that resolve your problems? Was there a process you followed to determine that the throttle body is defective?

It always seems to be either the wiring, throttle body, accelerator pedal, or ECU. I've seen lots of people on these forums who have bought replacement throttle bodies or accelerator pedals trying to fix this problem, but it ends up being something else.

Does anybody know the proper way to test the accelerator pedal and throttle body to determine whether or not they are actually causing this problem?
 

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I haven't done anything so far as the temperature has not fallen below 32 since March, thus the car runs fine. When winter temps set in and the car starts to act up again I will try either the throttle body or the ECU. I do agree that swapping out expensive parts is not the greatest way to a solution
 

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Well, the weather is finally cold in Connecticut. Real cold. So after running nicely all summer, the above mentioned symptoms and trouble codes have reappeared. For haha's I put a space heater in the car a few mornings ago and let it warm up the interior nice and toasty to eliminate the gas pedal assembly as the culprit. No change. The car continued to surge on acceleration as described in my posts above until after enough surging, the check engine light would come on and the car goes into limp mode. So I purchased a used throttle body at a salvage yard and put it in this morning. Drove all day with the outside temperature in the low to mid 20's. No surging, very smooth and powerful acceleration and no check engine light. So problem solved, the throttle body was it.
 

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Throttle Body

I had the same issue with my 2007 9-3 earlier this week, CEL lit, surging. Bitter cold, even in my garage. Took my car to my local SAAB Indie (where I bought the car), The Auto Shop here in Appleton, WI. (They have a tremendous reputation of working on SAABs for well over 30 yrs). I had the same codes, Tony cleared them, but said this VERY typical of a throttle body going out. So far, CEL has not returned. But just might just be a matter of time. If it returns, RockAuto (a site sponsor) has remanufactured throttle bodies for about $130ish w/$26ish core charge.
 

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Rough running / no idle function

I hope this is the correct thread. I have a 2002 9-3 that seems to have a throttle position sensor problem. If I let up on the throttle while cruising or accelerating, it begins to shut down and die unless I pump the throttle to keep the rpm up. I then coughs and sputters as it falls down to under 1500 rpm so I have to keep the throttle pumping to keep the engine revving up. At idle, parked, I can only keep it running smoothly (almost smoothly) if I keep the rpm above 2500 to 3000 but the moment I let up and try to stabilize the throttle position, the engine wants to die and sputter and fall down to idle. My 928 Porsche had a similar problem which I fixed by replacing the throttle position sensor on he throttle body which shuts fuel off when the throttle is released and then turns it back on again as it approaches idle position. I reason that this the same thing but don't have a clue how to find the TPS on the throttle body. If it falls to idle and begins coughing and sputtering I must pump the throttle on and off to get the rpm to rise high enough to maintain what seems like fuel supply. However I am not sure it is fuel or electric related. I'm just comparing it to situation I experienced on the Porsche. Can anyone relate to this condition?? This car is an automatic fwiw. And the throttle body was replaced just about a thousand miles ago by what I assumed is a competent shop just after I bought the car. I have another Saab 9-3 stick shift so I have been driving that car. It is running well. I normally would take it to that shop but am cash poor at the moment so I will end up doing it myself if it needs it.
 

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I hope this is the correct thread. I have a 2002 9-3 that seems to have a throttle position sensor problem. If I let up on the throttle while cruising or accelerating, it begins to shut down and die unless I pump the throttle to keep the rpm up. I then coughs and sputters as it falls down to under 1500 rpm so I have to keep the throttle pumping to keep the engine revving up. At idle, parked, I can only keep it running smoothly (almost smoothly) if I keep the rpm above 2500 to 3000 but the moment I let up and try to stabilize the throttle position, the engine wants to die and sputter and fall down to idle. My 928 Porsche had a similar problem which I fixed by replacing the throttle position sensor on he throttle body which shuts fuel off when the throttle is released and then turns it back on again as it approaches idle position. I reason that this the same thing but don't have a clue how to find the TPS on the throttle body. If it falls to idle and begins coughing and sputtering I must pump the throttle on and off to get the rpm to rise high enough to maintain what seems like fuel supply. However I am not sure it is fuel or electric related. I'm just comparing it to situation I experienced on the Porsche. Can anyone relate to this condition?? This car is an automatic fwiw. And the throttle body was replaced just about a thousand miles ago by what I assumed is a competent shop just after I bought the car. I have another Saab 9-3 stick shift so I have been driving that car. It is running well. I normally would take it to that shop but am cash poor at the moment so I will end up doing it myself if it needs it.
9-3 SportSedan, Convertible ('04+)/Combi & 9-3X, 2003 - 2012 Technical & Repair
 

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Diggs:
Thank you for your reply but I am assuming you're directing me to a workshop manual reference (?). I'm a newbie when it comes to Saabs so please forgive any misunderstanding.
 

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