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Interceptor said:
P2135 code. TPS pedal switch....Hmmm.....
Just so we are clear. Accelerator pedal position sensor is different that throttle plate position sensor.

The pedal position sensor is part of the pedal assembly. This sensor is a simple wiper type rheostat as I recall. Someone actually removed it and cleaned it up. So this appears to be serviceable. TPS is different, and P2135 is pointing to the actual throttle plate sensor.

There is no mechanical link between pedal and throttle in our cars. Depressing the pedal sends a "torque request" to the ECM, which then moves the throttle as it sees fit to meet that request. That might even mean increasing boost, adding fuel, and not moving the throttle plate one bit. Whatever works best for the situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thank you! The code came back as exact throttle pedal switch. GM # on the pedal 9 186 724 . I will try and source this but looks like the whole pedal assembly. Sorry for a butt load of posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well took apart the pedal sensor and cleaned it up with some contact cleaner. Reset the trouble light, and everything seems to be working so far. I'm still scared about it though. The first time this happened it lasted a day before it screwed up again, but that was only doing the battery disconnect method.
 

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Just so we are clear. Accelerator pedal position sensor is different that throttle plate position sensor.

The pedal position sensor is part of the pedal assembly. This sensor is a simple wiper type rheostat as I recall. Someone actually removed it and cleaned it up. So this appears to be serviceable. TPS is different, and P2135 is pointing to the actual throttle plate sensor.

There is no mechanical link between pedal and throttle in our cars. Depressing the pedal sends a "torque request" to the ECM, which then moves the throttle as it sees fit to meet that request. That might even mean increasing boost, adding fuel, and not moving the throttle plate one bit. Whatever works best for the situation.
I opened the peal and cleaned it. Not really much in there but a PCB and some "brushes" that pick up the position of the pedal.

I still have the same issue on my car. It goes into limp mode, I get the same error. I noticed that when my car goes into limp mode I try to "reset the pedal". I turn off the car. take the key out. press the CLUTCH and GAS PEDAL all the way down. Put the key back in the ignition. Start the car (the CLUTCH and GAS PEDAL ARE STILL PRESS ALL THE WAY DOWN) you will notice the car will not accelerate, it will the just idling. They I let go of the gas and clutch. This will fix the problem 70% of the time. Sometimes it will take a few tries.

Can anybody tell me where the connector are that go from the peal to the throttle body are?? I am asking because last week my AC blower went out. I was going to remove it.Well I reconnected the conector on the blower and POW! it came on. So maybe I have the same issue with the PEDAL POSTITION SENSOR.

I forgot to mention I replaved the pedal and I still have the same problems so I am confident the issue is not the pedal but some place downline.....
 

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From the WIS:

P2135

Throttle position sensor circuit; Plausibility fault between circuit 1 and 2

Symptom:
Fault indicator lamp
Cruise not working
limp home

Fault criteria:
Difference in voltage between throttle position sensors 1 and 2 is 4-8%, depending on position of throttle (4% for unactuated pedal, 8% for depressed pedal)

System reaction:
Correction of mass air flow/combustion for fuel calculation is blocked
Limited acceleration and idle function
Cruise control blocked
Secondary air switched off

WIS basically advises checking the wiring harnesses for breaks/shorts.

This is a bit of a weird one. I would remove the plastic engine shroud and see if anything got wet.

We have had some other TPS problem threads lately. I have described elsewhere (paraphrased the WIS, actually) how this works. Basically the combined output of TPS1 and TPS2 always sums to 5 V. This checksum is used by the ECM for fault detection in the TPS.

I can't find the TPS part number in the EPC. I'm not sure it's separate from the throttle body. The EPC implies that it is. It refers you to section 2-5500, which is charge air plumbing. Unfortunately the TPS is not shown there!! Maybe someone else can find this part #.
Anybody have a pic of the wiring from the throttle body the the engine firewall
 

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Help

I have a 2005 9-3 Linear with a 2.0. I have the exact problem here. I have replaced the TPS because that is what the dealer said to do. OK it ran okay for about 4 days. then went back into LHM. The wiring looks in good shape. What next. I recently purchased this car after I left my husband. (The cheat. Oops other forum.) Now I have spent all my savings and have no hope. :cry: Any help would be appriciated. Thanks, Rose
 

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I have a 2005 9-3 Linear with a 2.0. I have the exact problem here. I have replaced the TPS because that is what the dealer said to do. OK it ran okay for about 4 days. then went back into LHM. The wiring looks in good shape. What next. I recently purchased this car after I left my husband. (The cheat. Oops other forum.) Now I have spent all my savings and have no hope. :cry: Any help would be appriciated. Thanks, Rose
Good question. I replaced the pedal, I removed the ECM and checked all the pins for corrosion (all was in good shape). All I can think of is replacing the throttle actuator. I really don't know what the solution maybe. The dealer doesn't know SH!t
 

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I have to agree with you about the dealers. Did you know that the throttle control sensor is inside the throttle body on the 9-3. So I had to replace the whole throttle body. And the best part about that was the dealer could not find the part (TCS) when he went to order it and I had to tell him that it was inside the throttle body! And I am a GIRL that until now has never worked on a car!! I had to read the manuel to get the hood open. So needless to say if you give me instructions I will have a lot of questions.
So here is what I did last night. I disconnected the battery which I have done before and the car still stayed in LHM, but last night I wiggled all the wires around the top of the engine and the stupid car ran better today than it has in weeks! I am not ready to party just yet. But I think I may have stumbled across something here but have no idea what that maybe. You said you did something with your wiring. Can you discrible it to me. Thanks, Rose
 

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I'm still fighting this problem as well! About a year ago I had it at the dealer and he said he found some bad wiring splices(that I've read about on here). Well today I cut all of the heat-shrink off of each wire coming from the throttle body actuator plug(actually a small stepper motor) to the plug going to the computer. I didn't find a single bad solder joint. All the connectors and pins looked like new, I squirted a little contact cleaner on 'em. I even had my boss(wife) press the pedal in different places and watched the butterfly open and close smoothly with no noticeable problems. I was about to take off the whole throttle body and realized that the electronics are sealed with a "stamped" on metal cover!!! So even if I take off the TB it is not serviceable! I've taken my pedal apart before and cleaned it with no success either. Any ideas?
 

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I'm still fighting this problem as well! About a year ago I had it at the dealer and he said he found some bad wiring splices(that I've read about on here). Well today I cut all of the heat-shrink off of each wire coming from the throttle body actuator plug(actually a small stepper motor) to the plug going to the computer. I didn't find a single bad solder joint. All the connectors and pins looked like new, I squirted a little contact cleaner on 'em. I even had my boss(wife) press the pedal in different places and watched the butterfly open and close smoothly with no noticeable problems. I was about to take off the whole throttle body and realized that the electronics are sealed with a "stamped" on metal cover!!! So even if I take off the TB it is not serviceable! I've taken my pedal apart before and cleaned it with no success either. Any ideas?
Well man.. I can tell you I am stumped. This issue has the forum stumped..nobody can give me a god lead as to what it may be. I swapped the pedal, I checked the ECM connections (all looked good). the only thing left is the THROTTLE BODY/ACTUATOR. I know it is a stamped piece, i tried to do the same thing I did with the PEDAL. I will say this, I had the TECH2 hooked up and I got another code for this same issue...let me check what I posted on the forum and I will get back....

here it is...
P2130 PEDAL POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT PLAUSIBILITY FAULT BETWEEN CIRCUIT 1&2....(this is the coded the TECH2 guy gave me)

CAN THE SAAB GURUS GIVE US A HAND WITH THIS !!!!;oops: I'M REALLY SICK OF THIS...3 YEARS WITH THE SAME ISSUE!!!
 

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Ha, didn't know you had already done this too! I'm guessing it's something in the sealed throttle body. There has to be a potentiometer in there to give the motor controller feedback...I would think...???:eek:
 

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I "googled" 2005 SAAB 9-3 throttlebody and found a few for about $135.00 used. There is one on ebay that says lifetime warranty??? They don't know what their gettin into! Hmmm
 

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From the WIS:

P2135

Throttle position sensor circuit; Plausibility fault between circuit 1 and 2

Symptom:
Fault indicator lamp
Cruise not working
limp home

Fault criteria:
Difference in voltage between throttle position sensors 1 and 2 is 4-8%, depending on position of throttle (4% for unactuated pedal, 8% for depressed pedal)

System reaction:
Correction of mass air flow/combustion for fuel calculation is blocked
Limited acceleration and idle function
Cruise control blocked
Secondary air switched off

WIS basically advises checking the wiring harnesses for breaks/shorts.

This is a bit of a weird one. I would remove the plastic engine shroud and see if anything got wet.

We have had some other TPS problem threads lately. I have described elsewhere (paraphrased the WIS, actually) how this works. Basically the combined output of TPS1 and TPS2 always sums to 5 V. This checksum is used by the ECM for fault detection in the TPS.

I can't find the TPS part number in the EPC. I'm not sure it's separate from the throttle body. The EPC implies that it is. It refers you to section 2-5500, which is charge air plumbing. Unfortunately the TPS is not shown there!! Maybe someone else can find this part #.
If you check WIS, error code P2138 is the same but at the PEDAL maybe you guys can help me find a correlation here and fix my damn limp mode issue
 

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Water exposure potential cause of similar pedal issues (Code P2138 P2122)

Funny thing you mentioned that this all happened after a car wash. We just had heavy rain this past week to the point that the streets were flooding and my 2004 9-3 was at one point in water that was as high as the sidewalk.

Sadly, my check engine light came on this week and when I hooked up my reader I got the following codes:

P2122
P2138

I think its somewhat related to your P2135 code because it behaves very similar to what you described.

So this may be a sign that these pedal voltage related codes are caused by water exposure.

If water truly IS the cause, then I think we could rule out the possibility that this is caused by a faulty wire harness or any other physical damage / splicing in the wires themselves - i.e. no need to be wiggling wires or taking off the wire harness / protective wrap. Also - the water in this case would have most likely come from below so it may be the case that the damaged section of the circuitry is that which is located in an exposed section of the car's underbody down near the street - i.e. not located in any part that is up above by the engine where it is safely covered from water by the hood.

Of course, this is just my own analysis and I could be jumping to conclusions, but I'm just trying to contribute with my own evidence and logic as much as possible.

Been a few months since any of your posts. Any new discoveries? I look forward to joining in the efforts so that we can all find out the proper solution.

Is there anything that has not yet been attempted to solve these issues? I'm ready to roll up my sleeves and try working on this but don't want to repeat the same things others have done to no avail.

Please lets keep this discussion going!

Here are my symptoms: Check engine light turns on and car was drives slow, not responsive when pedal pressed down (Limp Home Mode). Check engine light turns off on its own overnight and drives fine next day at first but then check engine light turns back on and pedal becomes unresponsive again (back into Limp Home Mode). :cry:
 
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