SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I took off Wed. on what should have been an uneventful road trip. Car ran flawlessly. My destination's weather was for some colder than normal over night temps. - and sure enough it got down to 0 degrees F. Wed. Nite. I needed to run an errand Thurs. mid-day to town - about 3 miles away.

Although car was sluggish starting it did fire up and I let it warm up. The temperature control dial on the dash wouldn't turn. (Between fan switch on left and heat type selector on right). Meanwhile, per the temp. gauge, car was warming up....and sure enough on my way back, needled pegged out in the red. I pulled over and shut it off. Opened hood - could hear lines gurgling, the overflow reservoir was pretty full. I finally started it up and tried again - I had 1.5 miles to go....needle pegged again. Turned it off again for 20 minutes. Could see a short length of hose on top near the front of engine looking like it was ready to burst - the whole thing was acting like either a thermostat was frozen shut and nothing circulating thru engine, or the water pump gave out. Water pump wasn't making any funny noises - I assume it will "weep" like other vehicles I had where those went out.

Anyway, fired up one more time - and went for it. About 200 yards from house, that short length of house blew - the temperature gauge immediately dropped way down and I got to house and shut it off.

So first thing today, I need to replace that hose. Second, I'll need more anti-freeze - is the overflow on driver's side next to fusebox the only place to dump antifreeze in?

Third, any suggestions? I don't even know where a thermostat is on this since the engine's in backwards - is it near the front of car where that little hose that blew is? Does that temp. dial on dash being frozen have anything to do with this. Water pump?? I need to get this fixed today so I can head back home no later than Sunday.........

Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,081 Posts
bulldawg said:
I need to replace that hose.
Which hose? The top rad hose? (the long one going to the rad by the RH headlamp?) or the little short elbow beneath it at the head?

I got a rad hose same day from one of the big factors here in the UK, but the little elbow was dealer-only and took several days to arrive.

is the overflow on driver's side next to fusebox the only place to dump antifreeze in?
The header tank? Yep.

Third, any suggestions? I don't even know where a thermostat is on this since the engine's in backwards - is it near the front of car where that little hose that blew is?
Yep. See the little vertical stubby bleed nipple thing, front left of the cam cover, just behind where the top hose goes? That's the 'stat housing.

When you refill the coolant, start the car up, let it idle away and get some warmth through it, then bleed the air out of there until there's no more bubbles just a stream of water.

Does that temp. dial on dash being frozen have anything to do with this.
Wouldn't have thought so. That's just connected to the heater valve.

Water pump??
No reason it won't be OK from what you've said. I presume the belts are OK?

Umm, one "Nah, surely not" springs to mind. You say it was zero deg F - way below freezing. You did have a good strong antifreeze mix in there, right? Couldn't have frozen the coolant? I can see how that could cause issues.

I once bought a non-Saab which had been filled with neat water - it'd punched a hole in the ally block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
TooMany2cvs said:
Which hose? The top rad hose? (the long one going to the rad by the RH headlamp?) or the little short elbow beneath it at the head?
The two-bend hose coming out of top of rad. near RH headlamps goes to a sensor connector of some type - on the other side of the sensor is the little short hose in question-which does go into the head - where you pointed out the bleeder valve is. This short piece of hose has the slightest of bends - I think I can replace that with anything.

TooMany2cvs said:
When you refill the coolant, start the car up, let it idle away and get some warmth through it, then bleed the air out of there until there's no more bubbles just a stream of water.
So keep adding coolant to the "header" - then bleed it like a brake line? While engine's running, I presume?

TooMany2cvs said:
No reason it won't be OK from what you've said. I presume the belts are OK?

Umm, one "Nah, surely not" springs to mind. You say it was zero deg F - way below freezing. You did have a good strong antifreeze mix in there, right? Couldn't have frozen the coolant? I can see how that could cause issues.
Belts are almost new. I honestly didn't give a lot of thought to the coolant simply because the vehicle has been up in this climate 3-4 years that I know of. Yeah, stupid me. Oil looks fine this morning, so hoping thats a good sign. Also supposed to be warmer today - back above freezing - I'll wait til this afternoon to get this all going when it's the warmest part of the day - hopefully unthaw whereever it's froze up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,081 Posts
bulldawg said:
The two-bend hose coming out of top of rad. near RH headlamps goes to a sensor connector of some type
Temp gauge, I think

- on the other side of the sensor is the little short hose in question-which does go into the head - where you pointed out the bleeder valve is. This short piece of hose has the slightest of bends - I think I can replace that with anything.
Gotcha. It's all one hose for non-aircon cars. For aircon cars, there's that section in the middle for the over-temp-cutout switch. Over here, only the non-aircon hose is supplied, you chop the middle out for the temp switch.

So keep adding coolant to the "header" - then bleed it like a brake line? While engine's running, I presume?
Yup.

Belts are almost new.
So the water pump should be being turned, anyway. In which case, about the only failure mode is to pour water out the side...

I honestly didn't give a lot of thought to the coolant simply because the vehicle has been up in this climate 3-4 years that I know of.
Probably not that, then. <phew>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
While you are at it

I would flush the cooling system with clean water, then drain it and add fresh coolant. When you are bleeding the system why not connect a hose to the bleed nipple and put it back into the header tanks to save the coolant going on the ground and costing money topping it up again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
Now to my cooling/heating problems

I can't get heat out of the heater, I have flushed the heater, and with the control on hot, lots of water came through, I have replaced the thermostat, the car runs warm even hot when idling, but no heat. Any suggestions, I was going to pull the dash to make sure the heat control is connected to the heater valve but with the water flowing through well when it is set on hot I figure it should be connected.

Also, when idling how come only 1 radiator fan comes on. What do I look for here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I replaced that short hose and filled the empty header tank. Water pump obviously works as it sucked 1/2 of a gallon of coolant down, and I bled it as instructed above.

Temp. gauge reads barely warm - heater is blowing heat again. My only concern is that line I replaced out of the head that flows into (?) the radiator seems to be empty - not full of coolant. Not sure if I have the flow right - I assume it's flowing out of the engine to the radiator that way.

I'd let it idle for 20-30 minutes and have just shut it off - will go check things again in a half hour. Engine ran fine though and oil appears to be just oil and nothing else.

How would I flush the cooling system on this - is there a valve in the bottom of radiator?

THanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,078 Posts
rawill said:
I can't get heat out of the heater, I have flushed the heater, and with the control on hot, lots of water came through, I have replaced the thermostat, the car runs warm even hot when idling, but no heat. Any suggestions, I was going to pull the dash to make sure the heat control is connected to the heater valve but with the water flowing through well when it is set on hot I figure it should be connected.

Also, when idling how come only 1 radiator fan comes on. What do I look for here.
" I figure it should be connected" - I figure it's not. Check that the rod that runs from the dash to the valve is connected - they can come off - hot water will still flow to the valve and back to the engine via the return hose BUT none of it will go through the heater core!

You don't need to pull the dash - you can check through the left hand speaker (a couple torx fasteners and it pops out) -

Also - the center vents will blow cold air no matter what you've got your heater control set to - only the foot well vents, side vents and defroster vents will blow hot air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,081 Posts
bulldawg said:
I replaced that short hose and filled the empty header tank. Water pump obviously works as it sucked 1/2 of a gallon of coolant down, and I bled it as instructed above.

Temp. gauge reads barely warm - heater is blowing heat again. My only concern is that line I replaced out of the head that flows into (?) the radiator seems to be empty - not full of coolant.
You bled it thoroughly, just water coming out, no air - and the header tank's happily half-full? Should be water in the top hose, then. I reckon you're going to want more water than just a couple of litres in there to fill it by the sound of it.

How would I flush the cooling system on this - is there a valve in the bottom of radiator?
There's two drains. One on the bottom right corner of the rad, and one somewhere on the side of the block on an ally casting which apparently always dissolves as soon as you look at it.

I just did the rad one on mine...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
You figure it is not, I bow to your knowledge. I will check

re flushing. I would take out the thermostat and put fresh water from the hose into the system via the hose plugging it up with rags and let the water flow out via the block where the thermostat sits. I would flush it both ways and if I was being real clever I would put an air hose in and let some compressed air go through with the water. We always used to flush this way in the garage where I worked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
where is the thermostat?

I went for a little drive - gauge stayed nicely in operating range. only thing and i've noticed this prior, is steaming off the radiator - radiator fan not kicking in? But I bled it - no air, header tank about half full.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,078 Posts
bulldawg said:
where is the thermostat?

I went for a little drive - gauge stayed nicely in operating range. only thing and i've noticed this prior, is steaming off the radiator - radiator fan not kicking in? But I bled it - no air, header tank about half full.
On the front of the engine (near the radiator) - there's an alloy housing with a radiator hose attached to the neck a couple bolts holding it down to the cylinder head - it has a bleeder nipple on top of it - the 'stat is under there (take off the bolts, housing will come off (dribbling coolant) revealing the thermostat) - if you put a new one in make sure it's facing the same way as the one you just removed ....:roll:

steaming off the radiator could be residual stuff that got sprayed onto it when the hose ruptured and will likely clear up on its own.

It's possible that the thermo switch for the fan is knackered - it's on the top left hand side of the radiator - should have one wire going to it and one coming from it (which goes to the fan) - also check your fuse for the fan. If you bridge the poles on the switch with the ignition turned on the fan should spin - if it's not doing it's job when the coolant reaches the specified temperature for the switch (185 or 195 F I believe, depending on the switch) then I'd replace that also (when you get a chance).

Nice job - and best of luck with the rest of the investigation

Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
And Steve

How come on my car, only 1 radiator fan kicks in, are they on seperate switches. But I can't get mine going again till I put my alternator back on, replacing the mounting bushes, interesting job, and the parts are coming from Australia.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
888 Posts
cold night, no heat, temp. dial would not move, burst hose, Do you thing the coolant froze? How old was the antifreeze? Did somone add a a lot of water to it? It sounds to me like it froze. That is the only thing I can think of that would keep the temp. dial from moving. I would keep an eye out for leaks after flushing/filling with new coolant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
Thanks for that, I will have to run the aircon and watch, and I will have to get a Bentleys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the advice and comments. The little beast did make the 430 mile return trip home, although per temp. gauge, it was running warm - about 3/4 of the way up the gauge where normally it's never gotten higher than halfway. And this is after a gallon and a half of straight coolant dumped into the system. So....still question whether fan kicks on and/or if I have blockage somewhere.

But no leaks, apparently no cracked block and so forth.

When I do a flush, how many total gallons of coolant/water mix do these hold?

Thanks in advance.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top