[David Hoover]

I drove the car out of town yesterday (10/14/07) and it performed fine. I was sitting in a parking lot, with the engine idling and the car shut off on its own. When I tried to crank it again, the engine would turn over, but would not fire. I let the car set for about 30 minutes, gave it a try and it started right up. I then drove the 3 hours home, stopping for gas on one occasion and the car performed beautifully.

Today, (10/15/07) I got in the car for the first time in nearly 24 hours and the engine turns over but it will not fire. It is doing the same thing it was yesterday, only this time, the engine was cold.

Yes, there is gas in the tank!:roll:

 

[fusionrx]

Fuel pump or DIC

Sounds like what I had happen to me.

Two fuel pumps in 2 weeks for me

Same symptoms. Both my cars were about ~90 k miles.

 

[David Hoover]

Is this a DIY job?

Did you do it yourself or have it done? What is rough estimate on cost of parts and labor?

 

[fusionrx]

Depends

You can do it yourself. The Saab part is ~$450 at eEuroparts, $565 from dealer. Labour is about an hour at whatever you local rate is if you have a mechanic do it.

A number of folks here have retrofit a Walbro 255 lph unit (about $100) in its place. The issue with that is they are not "made" for the Saabs, so its up to you to make it fit.

Did I do it? Nope, had mechanic do it. (Both times) since I don't know enough about things in there to do it... cost me approx $1000 due to labour, replacing fuel filters, line replacement.

I'll dig around other parts of the car, but something that will blow you up is something I don't feel comfortable working on

 

[David Hoover]

Thanks fusion

I appreciate the info. Good luck with your Saabs.

 

[robw]

Don't rule out the possibility of the CPS (crankshaft position sensor). Failure to start when warm is a classic symptom - though can cause a failure to cold start as well.

 

[David Hoover]

Thanks. How does one investigate this? Would a mechanic be able to diagnose with an obd scan tool? If I am not mistaken, I should be able to nudge the car forward and maybe line that sensor up. Any input?

 

[MacNoob]

Y
A number of folks here have retrofit a Walbro 255 lph unit (about $100) in its place. The issue with that is they are not "made" for the Saabs, so its up to you to make it fit.

The Walbro 5CA3360 available from a number of vendors is IDENTICAL in all respects to the original. The difference in price is that Saab sells only the full assembly which includes the fuel level sender among other parts. Not a difficult DIY to disassemble the assembly, replace just the pump motor, and put it back together. It's not like you need to jury-rig anything. You just need to replace one short heat-shrunk hose with a fuel line hose with clamps, since you need to cut the original hose to remove it.

You should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when you first turn the key on. It's located under the rear seat bottom. You can whack the fuel tank with a rubber mallet - sometimes that will nudge the pump off a dead spot and get it going. If that works, the pump is bad. If you hear the pump running and a fuel pressure test shows pressure at the fuel rail, then the problem could be the crank position sensor (moving the car won't help). It's an inexpensive and readily replaceable part.

 

[clown8]

i've been running walbro replacement kit for almost 2 yrs, still running beautifully, for a fraction of a saab complete set.
you can hear the fuel pump humming from underneath the backseat, if its not you can give a few firm tap using a rubber hammer, if it is humming again, you will be able to start again.
Replacing the kit, as macnoob said, is fairly easy DIY job.

 

[fusionrx]

A whole thread on Fuel pump testing here.

Look at the info from Swedecar, he's an actual Saab/Volvo mechanic. Good info there.

http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/9-5/index.html?bID=163580

 

[David Hoover]

Ghosts are exorcised!

Thanks for all of the help. All it needed was a fuel filter, which I replaced myself. Total cost of the job was about $17.00. You're all great! I hope I can return the favor one day.

 

[David Hoover]

They're Back!

This is for my 99 9.5 I put the new fuel filter on Thursday and the car fired right up. On Friday I had a hard time cranking it. It was acting like no fuel was maing it to the engine but eventually, it did fire. When I tried to crank the car today (Saturday), the engine would turn, but not fire. The fuel pump is whirring upon switching the key and also, when I removed the filter again today, it was full of gasoline.

I thought that I had put it on backwards, as the filter I bought did not have an arrow on it. But the bolts only fit one way, so this fact ruled out the backwards mounting. Something is letting the fuel run all the way back down into the filter and tank.

Is it possible I got a dodgy filter? Any ideas here?

 

[Chris 9-5]

How about this from www.thesaabsite.com

Extended Cranking Time During Start Uphttp://extended cranking time during startup/?</b></p><p style=



There are many issues that can cause extended cranking time during startup. The most common problem is the failure of a check valve located in the top of the fuel pump. What generally occurs here is that the check valve in the fuel line sticks open causing lack of fuel pressure. This usually occurs after the car has been sitting for a while or overnight. The fuel pressure leaks down causing the fuel pump to have to work very hard to push the fuel from the tank to the fuel rail. Similar to vapor lock but not quite. The solution to this is to replace the fuel pump check valve which can be difficult in itself. Another issue that can contribute to extended cranking time after the car has been sitting is a problem with a fuel leak. A leaky fuel system can also cause the exact same symptoms as above with the addition of the fuel smell. Placing a fuel gauge in the fuel rail is the correct way to test to see if the system is leaking down or if a problem exist with the fuel pressure regulator. If a problem exist with the fuel pressure regulator a gauge would show excessive fuel pressure which would also cause starting issues due to a flooding situation.







NOTE: When doing this job be careful. If you break the link with no check valve in the fitting you will have to replace the entire fuel line because Saab does not offer the fitting by itself. Being a "Bull in a china shop" would not be a good idea here.

. Be very cautious when attempting this repair because of the dealing with the fuel system FIRE HAZARD!!!!!!!​

​

 

[David Hoover]

Does the fuel pump still pump?

If this check valve has failed, would the fuel pump still engage and pump fuel into the filter and lines? I can hear it whirring when i switch on the car.

There was lots of fuel in the filter when I removed it today.

 

[fusionrx]

my experience (having done 2 fuel pumps in 2 weeks, different cars), was that both times the fuel pump sounded like it was running. My bet is your fuel pump is probably shot.

2 options: Walbro 255 lph pump ($119), or Saab oem version for $450 or higher if mechanic does it..

 

[David Hoover]

Thanks Fusion

Doesn't the fact that I have fuel in the filter indicate that the pump is pumping, but its just not getting to the engine?

 

[fusionrx]

Beyond my knowledge. Just speaking from the experience up to but not including the pump change (car was at mechanics, I was at work).

My theory: Things that can blow you up, I let the mechanic do.

 

[woywitka]

Beyond my knowledge. Just speaking from the experience up to but not including the pump change (car was at mechanics, I was at work).

My theory: Things that can blow you up, I let the mechanic do.

Working around fuel is not as Dangerous as cartoons make it out to be. Working around brake fluid, engine coolant, and A/C components poses much more risks. With common sense, working on your fuel system is very easy and very safe. Follow the steps and precautions.

However, work with what your are comfortable doing of course.