[Si|ver Bu||et]

When at idle in neutral and clutch out (not touching it) I get a weird rattling noise coming from the driver's side. (pretty much from transmission) When I push the clutch in this sound goes away.

Does anybody know what this could be? It doesnt sound good at all.

 

[CSE9000]

sounds like the release bearing on the slave cylinder inside the trans. how old is your clutch if it is old it is a good time to replace it because you can replace just the bearing itself or the whole slave cylinder and it wouldn't be wise to not replace the clutch while your in there. the whole job is reletively easy compared to other cars because the subframe on the drivers side swings down so you dont have to remove the whole subframe.

 

[Si|ver Bu||et]

thanks.
its actually a pretty new clutch. I got the 3 piece clutch kit less than a year ago.
Master cylinder was also changed a few months before that

 

[Aero_Ady]

Does not sound good to me, but i know new parts can fail.

 

[Si|ver Bu||et]

sounds like the release bearing on the slave cylinder inside the trans.

is this also known as a throw-out bearing. if it is im pretty sure that it was replaced when the clutch was.

 

[mulik51]

Yep, I think throw out is the same thing as the release.
How does the trans behave in other terms , like shifter movement, knocking out of gear, not engaging, etc...
Try draining the oil. See if anything comes out...

Klim

 

[Si|ver Bu||et]

it doesnt behave any differently than before, but isnt always easy to get it into first at a light for example (gotta to the second then first to align syncros).
it moves alot when say letting off of gas, or pushing the gas pedal shifter bounces around a little

 

[justin.graeff]

oh, it's the shift coupler! Look down behind your throttle body and you'll see a black little rubber connector. That thing is probably not doing so hot. Get that thing replaced, and it should help the shifting a lot.

 

[Norman Lovie]

your needing a new lower bushing for the gearbox mount - best go poly - that will help take up the movement

Ref: noise, if your lucky! - there is a half moon splash guard at the bottom of the bell housing to block - easy to get this twisted, or miss putting in the 8mm mounting bolt, it can resonate or rub on the flywheel & it makes a horrible rattly noise

 

[abusot]

When at idle in neutral and clutch out (not touching it) I get a weird rattling noise coming from the driver's side. (pretty much from transmission) When I push the clutch in this sound goes away.

Does anybody know what this could be? It doesnt sound good at all.

Could also be the input shaft on the tranny. Change the oil in the tranny and see if the sound goes away or changes, if so, thats the culprit.

 

[Si|ver Bu||et]

thanks alot for your help guys! I really appreciate it.

I dont think its the coupler, I had that replaced less than 6 months ago (lost first and second in downtown traffic had to stop and go from third )

as for the others I will try/check them out as soon as I can. (im at school now)


another thing I noticed is that sometimes starting off, as I slip the clutch out and give barely any/if any gas, and the revs stay pretty much at idle the car starts to shake violently, and I have to slip the clutch more

 

[abusot]

thanks alot for your help guys! I really appreciate it.

I dont think its the coupler, I had that replaced less than 6 months ago (lost first and second in downtown traffic had to stop and go from third )

as for the others I will try/check them out as soon as I can. (im at school now)


another thing I noticed is that sometimes starting off, as I slip the clutch out and give barely any/if any gas, and the revs stay pretty much at idle the car starts to shake violently, and I have to slip the clutch more

The clutch shudder should not be happening with a new clutch. If you paid someone to do it, take it back. IF you did it, check to see if there is oil coming out of the drain holes in the bell housing, if so, then it could be the disc is fouled with oil. If no oil, then check all the tranny to bellhousing bolts for tightness.

If none of the above, you are going to have to get inside to check the tightness of the PP, flywheel.

 

[Superaero]

It may help to know that some SAAB release bearings are a bit noisy according to my mechanic (SAAB Master Tech). They don't know why and the only way to fix it is to pull the tranny and put in a new one. There is no point doing this just to cure a noise that may or may not be normal.


I recommend you just drive. The clutch sounds like it may not have beeded in properly, or has oil contamination. It is also barely possible that a clutch disc torque reaction spring has broken. Cluthc discs aren't usually warranteed for obvious reasons.

I'd take it back to wherever the clutch was done and seek a diagnosis. Or, take it to a dealer for a diagnosis.

If it is a suspect clutch part there really isn't much point doing anything until it breaks or wears out, which it probably won't do.

 

[CSE9000]

the clutch chatter may also be from a warped flywheel or a flywheel that has hotspots or heat cracks on it. saabs usually don't have many problems with warpage but I have had to replace or machine many flywheels due to hotspots or cracks.

 

[Si|ver Bu||et]

thanks guys for all your replies.

the shudder hasnt happened since I made this thread. I wont worry about that, it maybe the bad tranny mounts.

 

[Superaero]

Worn engine mounts can also make the engine/transmission shudder when letting in the clutch. If they are really shot they can cause the shifter to move around quite a bit. The one that usually goes first is the big one under the crankshaft pulley. The rear one is less stressed and usually will be OK. If the top "dogbone" mounts are worn then likely the lower front one is too.


The lower mount isn't too difficult to replace but you will need a method of lifting the engine to get the old mount out and put the new one in. The top dogbone is a bear because the alternator is mounted to the engine bracket.

 

[Si|ver Bu||et]

Worn engine mounts can also make the engine/transmission shudder when letting in the clutch. If they are really shot they can cause the shifter to move around quite a bit. The one that usually goes first is the big one under the crankshaft pulley. The rear one is less stressed and usually will be OK. If the top "dogbone" mounts are worn then likely the lower front one is too.


The lower mount isn't too difficult to replace but you will need a method of lifting the engine to get the old mount out and put the new one in. The top dogbone is a bear because the alternator is mounted to the engine bracket.

it shouldn't be the bottom ones because I replaced those recently. it may be the top ones, but at this point I think im just going to leave everything as it is and hope for the best.