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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just want to say hello and thank you. I recently just purchased a 1-owner 06 9-5 Sport (Aero) Vent seats, Vis. Package, Auto with 53,000 miles. I am going through the car to make sure it is in tip top shape. I am in the Saint Louis area if anyone is local or knows a tuner, a shop, etc. I will be doing most of the work my self but would like to meet people and hangout learning about these Saabs. I love the car and so far thanks to this site I have;

-Changed the plugs to the correct NGK PFR6H10, it had Denso IK20. Now I am debating on pulling them and running NGK PFR7H10 since it is primary driven on the highway. Really unless there is a reason (mods, tune), I will just wait until ~70-75K and switch.

-Replaced Oil Trap breather hoses, with the metal check valve. It turned out that mine was cracked, the car is smoother especially at idle with the A/C on.

-Replaced rubber vacuum lines with 3.5mm I.D. silicone hose.

-Have new PCV Breather hose coming.

-Currently the car has Synthetic Blend in it, not sure if that was used since new, but I know the car had three oil changes from 12/20 to 7/21 and only had ~800miles in that time frame. I am going to change it out this weekend to German Castrol 0W40 (also known as Castrol Edge 0W40 A3/B4 "European Formula") with a K/N or Mobil 1 filter.

-The trans fluid was "exchanged" or something like that at a local Firestone roughly a year ago. I am going to start my three, 4qt flushes also this weekend. Mobil 3309.

Some questions and concerns I still have are;
-I have one more vacuum line to replace the line from the “T” to the Red/White check valve and then to the TCS safety valve. I have not messed with it until I get a new check valve. Is the only option the $40 valve? Don't care if that is what works, is $40 a little high if works, not to me. Although if there is one that is cheap/easy/works, then I am all ears. Do they usually crack or become plugged internally? How will I know if it ok? How often do these go bad? I will change it out but might keep it as a backup.

-The car currently has a basically brand new DIC that is not a genuine SAAB. So my question is it bad to have it because of a short lifespan of the part compared to a SAAB DIC, potential damage to the motor or shorter lifespan of the motor, or both? I was going to get a new one in a few months (before winter) and then keep the no name DIC in the truck as a just in case. Unless the no name DIC is an item that the sooner you switch them out the better you are.

-I was also going to switch out the brake booster lines. Or again that is something that just worry about when it goes bad, change it?

-Can I take my old PCV breather valve hose, remove the original plastic valve and the install a Pierberg check valve? I don’t want to mess with it until I get the new one PCV breather hose in hand. Then I could install a Pierberg valve and reinstall or just put the new one on and keep the Pierberg valved one as a backup. On the 06 the hose only goes from the oil trap to intake.

-What other PMs should I consider? I am mechanically inclined and want to address anything now.
-CPS? What brand Delphi? Bosch?
-?????

-Do I need to get a Tech II? I plan on keeping the car a long time, and doing basic mods, Do88, downpipe, FPR and/or injectors, and tune.

-Also are there any group member or clubs that are around the Saint Louis area? Shops that are reputable that also know there stuff? Tuners for the T7 in or near STL?

Thanks so much and look forward to learning more about Saabs.
 

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Hi, Welcome!

CPS is like the DIC in that you buy cheap, buy twice. Apparently anything other than a Bosch is not only unreliable but won't last long.

DIC - this + the ECU + the exact plugs specified in the manual were designed to operate together as a system (for knock detection, feedback etc.) so I'd be interested to knowhow it ran with a duff DIC and wrong plugs! usually the fake DIC manifests itself by stuttering at high demand and at idle, and won't last long. I'm sure you know by now the real DICs were made by SEM AB, now under the NGK name in the States.

PCV NRV - this is what I did, having learned of the difficulty in accessing the lower end of the pipe where it joins the catch can.

NRV replacement 2.jpg


The original rigid pipe which heads down the back of the engine is 10mm outside diameter. Thats a piece of 10mm ID fuel hose and the aluminium NRV has 10mm nozzles. I think the other end just went into the existing pipe to the cam cover. The valve was about $4 on ebay. They're not immortal so I take it off and suck/blow it periodically.

I have the same valve in the evap. line from the evap. valve to the back of the throttle body. The blue originals are notorious for not sealing closed. Yours will be in a foam jacket stuffed outboard of the power steer reservoir. Again, its heat shrunk rigid pipe with a rubber outer layer - I substituted fuel hose but it has to be strong - the first substitution was sucked flat by the low pressure.

The red/white check valve you mention - mine don't have one (but my 9000 does so maybe its an auto. trans. thing?) but I would think any valve would work. I'm not aware they have a specific opening pressure or the like. I'm not aware that valve is a frequent failure like the others mentioned. My attitude is leave it until it fails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you Doug. So the part I have coming is this;
282353


My question is can I put this valve in the place of the plastic valve circled above?

282354


I also want to put the same valve in EVAP line circled here;

282355


The car ran ok, a little rough at idle and I could feel it breaking up in the higher rpms. It did have the broken check valve but I have since replaced it with this (basically the same thing you did above);

I am looking at getting the NGK DIC from Rockauto ~$185. I would then keep the no name one as a "in case of emergency" to get me through until another NGK/SEM can be sourced. I have tried to do my homework the best I can, but still have some lingering questions. Such as the Red/White check valve. Like I said I don't want to mess with it until I have a solution/backup in hand. Seems like these things always break, especially when I say to myself, "This will only take ~15mins.". Then before you know it you are down and waiting for the part.
 

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grey part is a flow restrictor which allows flows in both directions and should not be replaced by a non return valve.
As it is a pure mechanical part with an orifice there is hardly any need to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
grey part is a flow restrictor which allows flows in both directions and should not be replaced by a non return valve.
As it is a pure mechanical part with an orifice there is hardly any need to replace it.
That makes since. I will just leave it and have a back up. Now what about the EVAP valve;

282360


Can I replace that valve with a metal check valve from above?

So on my list of things to order I have;
-NGK DIC
-Bosch CPS
-Anything else???

I know that despite the low mileage, everything is ~15years old, and in some ways it not being driven frequently can also have its drawbacks.
Also does anyone have a link or how to on refinishing the silver/black door handles (seems fairly common of a problem) mine look almost like they are melting/peeling. Aside from that the car is extremely clean. I want to give it a complete once over, so I appreciate all the help!
 

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Yes to thaistatos' answer. That looks like the line which goes around the left side of the cam cover to the top of the cobra (air intake aluminium pipe). It's upside down in the image and pushes into the socket with the red collar in the cobra. It is part of the PCV system but the valve that fails is the one behind the cam cover.

Yes to your pic of the valve to replace on the evap. line. This is the innards of the original - the rubber disc does not seat properly.
evap NRV blue.jpg


Both the check valves allow flow toward the TB.

The evap control valve is easily removable - you could give it 12 volts and ensure it opens (by sucking/blowing the pipe)..

Your image of the Professional Parts Sweden pipe - that looks like the one behind the cam cover to the catch can. The pain is detaching attaching at the can. General opinion of PPS quality is not very good. I haven't been bitten yet but we frequently read of disappointment after purchasing PPS items.
 
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