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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done this mod? Is it worth it and have you noticed much of a difference?

From what I've been told it will fit RHD cars as long as I don't fit the viggen/9-5 master cylinder/servo (not sure if that's a worthwhile mod or not?)

So...worth the money or leave it :confused:
 

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If you're talking about the under hood mod, I have my doubts that it's worthwhile until you've done everything else possible. It probably adds some strength, and people who buy it report that they can (subjectively) determine the improvement.

What's really needed is a bar that runs across the front of the strut towers that would complete the "triangle" with the stock bar, but you'd have to make your own. Here's the general idea, but taken to an extreme but someone with lots of aluminum and a jones for welding: http://www.kyankton.net/images/enlarged/NG900_Suspension/lr_ng_099.jpg

OTOH, the bar in the hatch that connects the shock towers is a good idea for any non-'vert. Lots of good reports and sound engineering to support (no pun) the need for it.

What other mods do you have on the car? These are some of the last things to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Bob, that brace in your link looks well beefy ;ol;

Handling mods so far are:

Steering rack clamp
6 point subframe brace
Abbott spherical bearing kit
Polly TCA inner & outer bushes
Polly Front Rollbar to Wishbone Link Bushes
Polly Rear Axle Mounting Bush
Abbott springs
Bilstein B8
GS 22mm rear arb (to be fitted)

Basically powerflex bushes all round bar the one the Abbott bearing kit replaced (no.3 on the powerflex diagram) and also haven't done the front arb...not sure if that's worth it?

I've been looking at the GS engine & transmission mounts but have read about vibration issues coming into the cabin so might leave them. It's handlings pretty good now tbh but just wanted the front a little tighter.
 

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Get that rear bar on there... it's a very quick job and it will make a huge difference. You don't even really have to jack up the car... better if you don't because you want to torque it when it's in the "loaded" position anyway. . Just put a wrench on the sway bar bolts and loosen them. If they don't come easy then tighten them and they will snap if they are original. Pull of the little nut plates that go on top of the bar (they will pull right off once the bolts are out or break). Put the new one in place, put some anti seize on the bolts, tighten it up.

I've done them before but I could do one in 20 minutes. The first time you will get a little confused by those little plates, so add a few minutes for that and unfamiliarity. Total time still under an hour.

I think you are looking pretty good all around ... about the only thing left would be the braces. Try it with the bar. See how it feels after that. If you have a non 'vert, the next step would be the rear brace. Do the uprated front as the last item.

EDIT: I read a lot about mounts too... seems like fairly significant vibration will be the result of the poly upgrade. Of course, if yours are broken, even a factory style repair would help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again Bob :cool:

I'll do the rear arb Monday, was meant to do it this week but the audio side took up a lot of time.

I'll have a think about the strut brace mate, it's had some good reviews on the GS website so could be a winner...that's it then bar some decent tyres!!
 

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Agreed with the bigger rear sway bar. I think this car should have come from the factory with a bigger rear sway bar, and that'd be the first mod I'd recommend to anyone. The rear end of my 02 9-3 SE went from feeling like I was towing a wandering trailer to having a rear end that felt like it was more solidly connect to my front end.

I have the removeable version of the GS hatch brace installed and it quieted the squeaks and creaks and stiffened up the chassis overall back there. It was a real pain to install and I've written up my own installation instructions as I had a lot of problems following GS's. Feel free to contact me for a copy if you plan to install one.

I replaced my manual transmission mount with the GS poly mount when mine tore. The other mounts are OE. Compared to driving around with the torn mount, installing this one poly mount made the engine feel like it was solidly attached the the chassis, the shifting feel more precise, and the acceleration more immediate. There is slightly more vibration around idle which goes away at higher rpms, nothing that really bothers me. But I'd probably think hard about adding a 2nd poly mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. I'll have a think about these mounts then. The strut brace is looking like a go-er though! I'll stick a few bits up for sale this month then more than likely go for it ;)
 

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it's had some good reviews on the GS website so could be a winner...
Just a note: While I think the brace is probably good, word on the street is that GS deletes any non-favorable reviews on their products... and the word comes to us from some of the posters here :) .
 

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I have the GS 'Squid Bar' and I found it made quite a big difference in tightening up the front end. I can say this because I bought it along with the 6 point brace in the winter and was too lazy to get under the car so I installed the 'squid' first. Most people add it after they did all the other chassis mods. The squid really tightened things up front and then adding the 6 point beefed it up even more. I'm sure a bar like the Yankton design (with a real cross bar) would be much more effective but a pain for access.

As someone mentioned, the hatch brace is also very good and tightening up the rear but most noticeably eliminating much of the squeaking and rattling back there.
 

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Just a note: While I think the brace is probably good, word on the street is that GS deletes any non-favorable reviews on their products... and the word comes to us from some of the posters here :) .
CompUSA does the same thing with comments about purchases. I posted a negative comment about a flat screen TV that I bought that had a 12-month warranty. The problem was that CompUSA didn't offer an extended warranty. The TV lasted a full 14 months. I guess they didn't like the phrase "big waste of money" in my comments... Ron
 
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