SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2003 9-5 Linear. Do I have to drop the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump? Can I get to it under the rear seat?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
From what I've been told, it's the same setup. 1 way to find out is to pull the back seat and see what you've got, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Just pulled the seat bottoms. Never realized we had fold flat seats. Never lifted the seats actually. Convenient. The carpet flap for fuel pump access is right on the middle hump where the article says it is. Hopefully the rest is the same too. :cheesy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
does the cps control the fuel pump? My pump wasn't running yesterday but when I tried it today it kicked on and built up pressure. I started the car and it ran rough for a few minutes then died and now the pump isn't running. Also, does anyone know which of the 4 wires that go to the pump provide the voltage for the pump motor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,196 Posts
does the cps control the fuel pump? My pump wasn't running yesterday but when I tried it today it kicked on and built up pressure. I started the car and it ran rough for a few minutes then died and now the pump isn't running. Also, does anyone know which of the 4 wires that go to the pump provide the voltage for the pump motor?
The fuel pump runs briefly at each start as the ignition key is turned thru "Run" to "Start" to prime the fuel system. Other than this short 2 or 3 second burst the pump is only active while the CPS detects engine rotation.

If the CPS fails, the fuel pump stops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
The two thicker wires provide the power for the pump. Grey is +ve and black -ve. The other two are for the contents sender unit.

Replacing the pump isn't overly difficult (ha ha!) but problems I found were;

1. Undoing the ring that holds the tank lid on. It's very tight and brittle plastic. Don't just hit it with a hammer and drift make a special tool.

2. The clips that hold the pressure and return pipes are brittle and break easily. Disconnect the wires from the plug by unclipping the sides of the plug and pull the wires individually (note where they go) then remove the self tapper screw to let the yellow plastic thing lift off.

3. Getting the tank unit out of the tank is frustrating unless you get lucky and get it out first time. The hole is just a bit smaller than it needs to be. I had to tuck one of the pipes into a little cut out on the tank unit to get enough clearance. Careful the edges of the metal supports are sharp and will cut you!

4. Prepare for spilling fuel! The tank unit is full of fuel and needs to be tilted to get the float out. Put lots of polythene and rags down over the carpet!

5. Carefull when you un-clip the outer case of the tank unit. It feels like brittle plastic.

6. The fuel pipes of the tank unit are extremely hard and had to be cut to get them off the pump outlet and T junction. I presume replacement is available but I couldn't find any and had to replace it with a length of standard (fuel injection) hose and clamps.

7. Make sure your replacement pump has the correct 6mm brass outlet rather than the 8mm that some pumps have.

Hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, I got the pump out. Everything went pretty much as described above. I made a tool to get the ring off. I couldn't find anything else to use so I made it out of a piece of oak that I had laying around. The ring came loose right before the oak snapped. Still doubting what my problem really was, I applied 12 volts to the pump when I got it out and it didn't run. Then I tapped on it a few times and tried again. This time it ran. Now I know for sure. My car may end up having other issues but this pump needs replaced for sure.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top