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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All!

Alrighty! I've done a lot of troubleshooting so far.

As stated, my 99 9-3 convertible is NOT getting power to the fuel pump. I did not know this at first, so I replaced the darn thing... I should have metered the wires first. *sigh*

Anyways... I've tested the pumps with external power and they both work.

I checked the 15amp fuse - OK.

I swapped the relay underneath the steering wheel - it's fine!

NOW, I have no power at the plug that connects to the pump (Blk/Grn = 12v and Blk = ground) - nothing but like... 0.03.

I metered the relay and it has 12 constant on the 2 little 'bars' on either side and 12 switched when the key is in on position on the main 'bars'.

So what am I missing?

Two weeks ago I couldn't get it started, so I thought it was my plugs... replaced them and blamo... it worked? (Plugs were ugly... but not the culprit).

Days ago... it refused to start. I've narrowed it down to the fact that the pump is getting NO POWER. I just can't figure out WHY!

Any advice? I'm thinking about running a direct wire off a switch if I cannot figure this one out (not the best idea as there would be no safety precautions... but at least my car would run).

Thanks in advance!
 

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wiggle all your connections maybe check your fuses with meter, have you tried jumping the relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bob & Srmoose, thank you!

SRMOOSE: How would I jump the relay? There are 4 "prongs". A wide copper one, an equally wide steel one, and 2 thinner steel ones... which two do I jump?

BOB: I'm not too electrical-saavy... I don't understand how I could test it's continuity with the power off? Could you please explain that more? I know the ultimate goal of that means: Make sure there are no breaks/shortages in the wires... just not sure how to test that from the relay to the pump...

Thanks again!

I'm strongly considering running new wiring from a 12v switched to the pump... we'll see.
 

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BOB: I'm not too electrical-saavy... I don't understand how I could test it's continuity with the power off? Could you please explain that more? I know the ultimate goal of that means: Make sure there are no breaks/shortages in the wires... just not sure how to test that from the relay to the pump...

Thanks again!

I'm strongly considering running new wiring from a 12v switched to the pump... we'll see.
You need a multimeter. It will have a function that lets you test for resistance in a wire, or resistor. Basically you connect one of the meter's test wires to one end of a wire (or a connector), connect the other test wire to the other end of the wire (or connector) and read the resistance. It should be close to zero. A couple ohms is OK, more than that is suspicious in the length of wire we're talking about.

Be sure to disconnect the wires/connectors at both ends and DISCONNECT the BATTERY. You do NOT want power in the circuit when testing. Never test for continuity with any power applied anywhere.

With an electrical diagram in hand, you can test each wire in the circuit to make sure it is not broken in some way. There is also likely a ground wire in the circuit, you can put one probe on the car's chassis and one on that wire and it should read zero ohms to ground. Other wires should NOT have a path to ground. Any wire that shows infinite resistance when tested end to end has a break in it somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I fully understand now. I thought that's what I had (a "multimeter") - but mine just has the settings, digital readout, and black&red probes.

I will definitely buy what you're talking about tomorrow! This will come in handy for years to come.

Thank you!


UPDATE: I'm 90% sure I'm just going to find a 12v switched power somewhere and solid ground... and run new wires to the pump... then it will have power when I turn the key on. I'll toss a 15a (?) inline fuse in the wire and should be good-to-go. I know this disables the safety 'shut-off' if the car flips or bursts a gas line... but it's a small risk I'm willing to take... in order to get back on the road! Perhaps I can take it to a Saab tech after to read check engine codes.

Wish me luck. Any advice on the procedure I'm about to do would be appreciated!

G'night all. 9pm on East Coast and tomorrow is a LONG one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's just like this:


It says "Multi-meter" online... but there aren't parts that detach so I can hook up a 'current' or whatnot to one end and test the other end. It's just those 2 probes.
 

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Bob & Srmoose, thank you!

SRMOOSE: How would I jump the relay? There are 4 "prongs". A wide copper one, an equally wide steel one, and 2 thinner steel ones... which two do I jump?
.
pins 30 and 87 connect when the relay is on.
so you would need to jump the corresponding holes in the connector (30+87).
most all fuel relays work this way.
the numbers should be on the relay along with a diagram of how it works,
 

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It's just like this:


It says "Multi-meter" online... but there aren't parts that detach so I can hook up a 'current' or whatnot to one end and test the other end. It's just those 2 probes.
That meter should do it. Red probe to one end of the wire, black to the other. Set the meter to a scale for "ohms"... there are probably several marked something like "200, 2000, 20K, 200K, 2000K". Those will all measure resistance. Use the lowest scale for this operation.

I see you discussing the relay - I thought you mentioned replacing the relay earlier in the thread?
 

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You did state the relay is fine, So if it is fine then I would run a wire from it to the pump and then no need for a switch?
 

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You did state the relay is fine, So if it is fine then I would run a wire from it to the pump and then no need for a switch?
srmoose: That's back to my point... if the relay is working (and supplying power out the pin for power) then the only thing left is ringing out the wiring from the connector to the pump. But, if the wiring is OK, then something else has been missed.
 

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Correction, if you have a bad CPS the FP on signal will not be sent to the relay by the ECU, no power at the pump does not mean you have a bad CPS, it is just one of the possible causes. If like the OP has stated he has power at the relay when cranking and also at the fuse (when the relay is in place) then it would not be the CPS.
@ OP, have you tried connecting 12V directly to the bottom post of the FP fuse? If the pump doesn't run then, but does when you connect 12V at the pump connector it is the wiring that is bad in between. To test whether it is the 12V or ground side, do a continuity test from the positive part of the connector by the FP and bottom FP fuse holder, and also from the ground point in the connector to a known good ground.
If everything has been diagnosed like you said then I suspect your problem is a bad ground. Also make sure you measure the voltage when attempting to start the car, with the key in the on position the pump wont always run if the car isn't running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You know... I HAVE checked the relay for power when cranking (or simply turning the key to ON)... and the fuse is good for the FP... BUT... I don't know if I checked the power at the fuse (I don't think I could get the probes in there).

I should do that. Would that mean it's the CPS is the relay has power but the fuse doesn't?

Last night... out of desperation, I used a spare wiring harness for the pump connector and just hard wired a new ground and new 12V switched in from an unused cluster of wires I found in the passenger-side dash (a blue connector with 8-10 wires). I assume it's for an option my car doesn't have.

Pump works great right now... just without the safety cut-off. I've installed an inline fuse (15a) and I'm comfortable with my wiring job & positioning.

However, I do still have some hesitation in my gas pedal. If I stomp it... it takes a 1/2 second to respond at all... I've had this for a while now. I replaced plugs & threw on an extra cassette I had up on a parts car... I wonder if I should do the CPS....... I know nothing about it.
 

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I believe that connector is for the power seats, though I am not entirely sure. I would test at the fuse, check between the top connector part and a known good ground. If you have power there, then just run a new wire from the bottom of the fuse connector (do it from the back) to the +12V on the pump connector and then the same for a good known ground and you should be good, since you will be using the stock relay and fuse.
 
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