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Fuel pump / No start

1K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  earthworm 
#1 ·
Hey I recently changed my clutch cable, crank sensor, front o2 sensor, and fuel pump. The cable works nicely switches between gears easily. The crank sensor should work, I guess, since it is new.

Problem is the car still doesn't start. lights flicker and the gauges rise and drop when I try to start the car and there's an odd noise happening.
I have listened to the fuel pump and hear no noise still. I used a walbro 255 pump and hooked everything up correctly. But no power to it. I tried swapping the fuel pump relay for the wiper one and nothing happened.

Anyone have any suggestions?Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
Did you test the old pump, using known good current?
You could pull a plug or four and see what the story is.
So, I re-read the post and note "no-power" to the pump.
This is where I start to use the Haynes schematic and the test light or multi-meter.
Do you have current at 17 when the ignition switch is ON?
If so, the switch is OK, according to Haynes(but this is for the 900S(no turbo, no DIC)..
 
#4 ·
you mean that plastic cover? yeah i pulled that off. I have been thinking of what I could have done wrong with this but nothing comes to mind. I redid all the lines with 5/16" submersible lines and everything else is on it. The only thing I can think of is when I was reconnecting the lines to the top of the canister--the pressure and return valves or whatever--i heard something possibly snap but i thought I had stepped on something cuz i have a lot of tools and random stuff in my car right now. dunno if i pulled too hard on it.
 
#7 ·
it did start before when the engine died orginally with starter fluid. so i figured the pump was bad. i had a CEL code for the crank sensor and o2 sensors. One thing is there are two white wires to the o2 sensor with no difference in appearance so maybe i could have hooked up the wrong white one with another white one but i dont know if that would do anything to starting the engine or not.
 
#8 ·
Not good if you have the wires wrongly connected. One of the white wires is probably the preheater. the white from the harness would show power when the ign is on and the sensor is cold and the white from the sensor would show some resistance between it and ground, but not infinite resistance.
 
#9 ·
yeah i will try to connect the white wires opposite of eachother i guess and see how that goes.

i bought a coil pack from the junkyard cuz mine was sending misfire codes and was cracked on one of the plugs. the one i bought looked good all the way around no cracks or anything. but the one i bought was from a 2.3 9000 both had red tops on them. Would that matter? does it have to be froma 2.0 turbo like mine?

thanks for all the info much appreciated
 
#10 ·
Both white wires are the preheater, they are irrelevant

the black wire is the signal wire and the grey wire is the ground of the signal wire. These need to be connected in a particular way.
 
#11 ·
Have you got it going yet? There is an old thread on a different Saab fourm from 2002. This thread described a problem of no fuel, no spark and no crank, but also said that it could be a combination of the three. The problem was finally determined to be the immoblizer, which is under the carpet of the driver's seat. The poster used 3 jumpers to bypass the immobilizer to get the car running. The origional symptom was that he was driving the car and it just stopped and it wouldn't crank to restart... Ron
 
#12 ·
hey thanks for that info Ron--will definitely check that out if I cannot get it going soon. I have not gotten it started, unfortunately. I charged my battery in my garage for an hour and a half and when I connected it to the car it almost turned over. I thought it was going to start for a minute but it did not. I'm thinking it's the DIC and/or spark plugs. I put two dollar plugs in there a few months ago not sure if that would cause a no-start or not. I want to check how to know if it is bad or good. I can take the plugs out and plug them into the module and put them in the block and check for sparks? Is that a correct way?
 
#13 ·
Testing the original or old fuel pump - procedures :
Simply introduce it to some known good current.
If it works, then the FP should be okay. Then give her a shake test, being OK should continue. If not, then you know you have one bad part in the system, and there could be more.:cry:
The "snap" (I don't know what this is), I'd pull and examine the FP.
Damned good advice from Ron, luckly this is a rare occurance.
The oxygen sensor can be disconnected and she will still start and run, if a bit poorly.
Same with the MAF (900S, nothing fancy) Motronic?..
 
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