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I searched for a way to install a Fuel Pressure Gauge on my fuel rail. People had written in that they had spliced into the hard plastic line between the FPR and the rail. I didn't like the sound of it. This is a fuel leak looking to happen. I am no Rocket Surgeon, but this is what I came up with. I picked up a couple of the fuel rail bolts that hold on the banjo fuel line fittings at my local Junk Yard. I drilled through the head and tapped it for a B&M fuel gauge. I think that my pictures will be worth more that a hundred words. It works great and no leaks. Can be reverted back by installing the old bolt.

My $0.02, RayBan (Test pilot found!)
 

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That's great! I often wondered about plugging a couple of fuel gauges into the Bosch CIS system on my 8V. The first step to troubleshooting anything on CIS is to check the fuel pressure.

I think I'll do your nice and easy installation on our 16V.
 

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I essentially did the same thing, but I have gotten rid of the rubber hose and mounted the sending unit for my electric gauge onto the rail.... it works, I put my banjo bolt on the front, because I have a 2.1 head and rail and the rear banjo bolt is on top of the rail, and well it doesn't fit there when you close the hood....

And as for CIS this will work you need to put the banjo on the feed line into the fuel distributor
 

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Breakin5speeds said:
essentially did the same thing, but I have gotten rid of the rubber hose and mounted the sending unit for my electric gauge onto the rail....
Nice job! And an air/fuel ratio meter too - what sort is it, and how much of a pain was it to fit?

Word to the wise, though - don't try the same thing with a capilliary gauge as you don't really want fuel under pressure spraying the interior of the car if the gauge fails as once happened to me with a capilliary-type oil pressure gauge. An oily dash was one thing but a petrol shower I can well do without...
 

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nuclear_jimbo said:
Nice job! And an air/fuel ratio meter too - what sort is it, and how much of a pain was it to fit?

Word to the wise, though - don't try the same thing with a capilliary gauge as you don't really want fuel under pressure spraying the interior of the car if the gauge fails as once happened to me with a capilliary-type oil pressure gauge. An oily dash was one thing but a petrol shower I can well do without...
Thanks, and the reason I used an electric gauges is because I wanted a gauge on the dash and didn't want to use a gauge isolator, it would have cost more anyways,

As for the A/F ratio monitor it is a narrowband Autometer...works well enough with the fuel pressure gauge and the seat of the pants dyno, fairly precise gauge for what it is, and it was fairly simple to use, just 3 wires, power, ground, and signal from the stock O2 Sensor...currently I am using a RRFPR with good results, but with a HUGE t3/t4 turbo, and exhaust, and FMIC, I am running ridiculous fuel pressures to only get 15 psi of Boost (but at 15 psi the car HAULS @$$...) I am currently gathering the parts needed for Megasquirt, with EDIS so I can run large injectors for my fuel, and actually have control over my spark....I don't think 150 psi of fuel is acceptable for 20 psi boost:suprised;
 
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