SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Firsthand I apologize for being such a noob. The only thing I've done to a car is change the light bulbs. Tomorrow with assisstance I will be attempting an oil change, serpentine belt, and fuel filter (if I get the parts for the fuel filter in time). :eek: The person who will be assissting me has changed spark plugs, oil and fuel filter, but not done something like serpentine belt. I will be doing the work (so I need to have background on what I'm doing), and they will be there to help me not screw up too badly.

I was wondering where the location of the fuel filter might be for a 99 9-3 hatch. I don't know what tools or parts I might need for this.

I've found this board very helpful so far - I've found detailed instructions for the serpentine belt, which I plan on attempting tomorrow. I have the belt and idler pulley parts. I did not get the tensioner, I don't know if this should be replaced? - the car has 67k on it now. Now I'm having second thoughts. I'm not sure what to check to make sure the tensioner is ok (the current belt doesn't seem slack though...).

Questions re: oil. Should I use something like lock tite (sp?) on the drain plug when I screw it back in? Or does it need anything like that at all?

When I got the car a year ago when I asked about the car the prior owner said that I had to replace the timing chain (I think they said it was part of upcoming 60k service), but checked with the dealer and they said car had no timing chain. What is the timing chain exactly?

Sorry for so many questions!

-L
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
Don't use locktite on the drain plug, it is designed to tighten down with a washer, and that's it. Have a new plug and washer on hand if you have not changed the oil on the car before, just in case a gorilla put it in before you. They only cost about $3 at any part store.

The tensioner pulley is less likely to need replacement than the idler pulley, if you have the 90-mm metal one. If you have the plastic one, at least inspect it carefully and spin it by hand, make sure it is lubricated, spins smoothly but not clicking or wobbling. Not sure which pulley your model has.

On the NG900, 1994-98, the fuel filter is under the car on the passenger side, about 2/3 of the way toward back of car. You need the correct size wrenches for that, preferrably flare nut wrenches on the fuel lines. Read up on this before you do it, it is usually a pain.

The car has a timing chain, and a timing chain tensioner, NOT a timing belt. It only has to be replaced if there is excessive wear for some reason, most often poor engine lubrication, sludge in the engine, etc. Replacement is not a normal 60k service item.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,596 Posts
Just to add a little to what PMI said.

This site has illustrated instructions on the serpentine belt:

http://pages.infinit.net/mlbriand/index.shtml

He's actually doing the short belt modification which let's you use a slightly shorter belt and skip one of the idler pulleys. Also, it's a good idea to replace the idler pulleys (or pulley if you do the short belt mod) because they usually fail before the belt itself.

As for loc-tite on the oil plug, as PMI said NO, it isn't necessary and probably wouldn't work well anyhow since the threads would be oily. A new copper washer is nice though.

www.eeuroparts.com and www.thesaabsite.com are usually good sources for these washers and other little things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,014 Posts
Replacing the fuel filter is relatively straight forward. You'll need few wrenches and a torx driver. As you can see from the attached pictures, the fuel filter is located on the passenger side just below the rear seat. It's covered by a plastic shrowd which is held by couple of screws. The filter itself is held by a clamp and a torx screw. I was concerned that the fuel line would be under high pressure and that I would get a lot of fuel gushing out, but it was more of a dribble. I would say that I had no more than about 200ml of fuel in the drain pan. Remember to replace the 4 gaskets along with the filter.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,583 Posts
Some excellent advice here on this forum ..

To add :

Drain the oil hot
Place some oil in the filter
Document all that you do
Inspect everything while the oil drains : (tight and secure, cleanliness, m to m, leaks, cracks, frays, get to know every part in the bay)..
No lockTite on the oil drain plug, of course, yet LockTite may just make a sealant that can be used on the threads - something minor to research..
Use a 3/8" torque wrench on the drain plug (19 ft lbs, in the Haynes manual) , this is optional, with time a man can develop a feel..
Write the date and mileage on the filter; I use a piece of good quality self-adhesive paper on the Honda filter, works OK - but embarrassing..

Remember, wealthy people pay men at a dealer $$$ to do all of this(sometimes just some of this) - the DIY/owner can do it better...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
Good advice here. One other thing you definitely want to do is depressurize the fuel system before taking out the fuel filter. You can just pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car and it will die on its own. From memory I think it is fuse #23 but double check that.

Good luck with the tune up. Its very straigh forward, just take your time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Wow, thank you everyone!! Lots of handy info. The photos for the belt and fuel filter will really help a lot.

I just realized I filled up the gas tank the day before *smacks forehead*. I'm glad for the fuel pump tip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,596 Posts
:nono;

The gas can "spray" out even after relieving the pressure, so safety glasses/goggles won't hurt. Also, it helps to hold a rag near the joint you're opening.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top