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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I decided my project for the day would be a fuel filter swap and an oil change. Figured the fuel filter would take about 20 minutes. Four hours later covered in gas and grease and having used every swear word under the sun, i decided to try again tomorrow.

Here are the issues I ran into:

-should've read the directions better, removed the fuel lines from the banjo fittings rather than just removing the banjo fittings from the filter. Stupid. Messed up the ends of the fuel lines so I snipped them off so the banjos would have a clean mating surface. Got ONE of the banjos back in all the way up but it still seems to be trickling out where the hose meets the nipple. The other one is being such a b*tch I can't get it the last 1/4" or so onto the fitting. Any advice on this?

-Couldn't find the torque specs for the bolts on each end of the filter in either manual I have (Bentley & Haynes.) How tight are these supposed to be?

I do have new copper washers, so I doubt it's leaking from there. Seems like it's leaking from those crazy banjo fittings. Also, is there anywhere to get replacement fittings? These seem kinda beat up, to be honest.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Now, I just have to figure out how to get the smell of gas off me.
 

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I think Bentley says to use a soldering iron to heat the plastic to let it go inside... don't set anything on fire tho ;)
 

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You may be able to tighten the plastic hose around the banjo fittings using a small enough hose clamp. I wouldn't use heat on those lines with a fuel leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yeah I'm a bit iffy about taking a soldering iron to a fuel line. I'd like it not to leak but I'd also like to not catch on fire. Hell, I already tried heating up the line with a hair dryer all to no avail - those freakin' things won't go in there.

Do you think they won't go on because the fuel line fittings are jacked up? Hard to tell.
 

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it is very difficult to refit lines to banjo, (especially under the car ) but they are done in the factory and hair dryer does'nt work as the plastic has gone to hard & brittle(have the T shirt etc ggrrrr) the pipe can fracture so you might get a break/leak without realising it ,try fitting a good fit rubber hose over the top of it,(will act as an extra seal as well) and then clapping or the clamp might go through the plastic. if you need to make it longer you will need small bore heating pipe, or the thicker brake fuel pipe and that will fit on the inside then clamp up, otherwise it's new lines:cry: std braided air hose internal size I believe is the same bore as petrol pipe, but this will harden over time as well, but could do the job
 

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Dorman makes a repair kit, and has the fuel line under GM parts. You may check to see if someone owns the kit, since last time I checked it ran around $300. It's a full service kit with fittings and installation adapters. The GM hose is a 25ft length and I have used it to replace a line that was melted due to a cracked fuel rail line. A hot air gun (NOT hair dryer) was used to warm the hose and make the banjos easier to install. I also kept a fire extinguisher handy even though my line was a new replacement (ABC type). I would also make sure you did not reuse the seal washers. With time they take a set and will leak if not installed EXACTLY in the orientation they were removed from.
 

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SAAB makes a Special Tool to hold the Line as you press the fittings in cold.
You can mimic the tool by slipping a piece of split regular (rubber) fuel line over the plastic. Clamp (C-clamp or the like, avoid crushing the plastic) two pieces of wood over the lines, leaving 1/2" of plastic protruding . Press or hammer the fitting in cold.
SAAB specifically recommends that you avoid heating (weakening/distorting) the line.
This applies to all of the plastic lines, regardless of model year or application.
 

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Yeah, but they always assume you are inside a shop, with relatively stable temps over 60F. Try the force method at 30F or lower (hose cracks). warming to around 100F works wonders and the hot water method was recommended by several of the shops I knew in the Phoenix area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
God what a pain in the a** I've gotten myself into here. Thanks for the tips - will try the "boiling water" method and some rubber tubing over it. Hopefully that'll work.
 

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Does any know where are the fuel filter replacement instructions in the Bentley manual? It gives everything on fuel pump and lines but didnt see a single mention of the filter.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Talked to Eric Patterson of Patterson Performance (Raleigh, NC) today - he says he's going to see if he's got a spare set of fuel lines laying around with good fittings in them. Not sure why I didn't think of this in the first place - i mean hell the fuel line just runs through a grommet under the rear seats, through the interior under the carpet (easy to get to) and through more grommets on the front bulkhead into the engine bay. If I'm gonna pull 'em, might as well replace 'em!

Hopefully this means no fuel leaks, and this project can be back on it's way for it's scheduled July 2nd completion date :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
so I'm gonna pull the lines today and try to tap the fittings back in using a vice like the Bentley suggests. Any suggestions on this/warnings?
 

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Any suggestions on this/warnings?
If possible, press rather than tap.
Often, you can Mickey-Mouse some kind of jig to use Arc-Joint (water pump, slip lock, channel-lock) pliers to push the fitting in smoothly.
If you have to tap it in, use a soft-faced hammer or use a piece of wood in between to minimize damage to the fitting.
 
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