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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The return check valve had broken while I was replacing the fuel pump. I ended up buying the feed valve thinking they were the same (and the return doesn't seem to be in-stock anywhere). Looking at the feed valve, would there be any issue with just cutting the tip off the feed valve and removing the ball/check valve portion?


Here's the two to compare:
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/40617/Fuel-Pump-Check-Valve-Feed-21341766/
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/48706/Fuel-Pump-Check-Valve-Return-21341767/


The original return seems to have a smaller opening compared to the pro-parts return. But not as small as the feed.



Somebody mentioned not needing the check-valve for the return line. But would opening it up completely make it too large?
 

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Yeah, if you remove the check valve it should be fine. Not entirely recommended since it could save you from burning to death, but it'd work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Oh, good to know. Maybe I can find an in-line check valve to add.

edit:
Well, all the in-line check valves specify as non-return being sold on amazon. Why would that be? Is it still better then not having one? Is it in-case the car is upside down with a fuel line cut?
 

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One could visit a Pick-N-Pull yard and get a fuel line

One would have to drop the tank and have special tool to separate quick connector at engine fuel rail. This would eliminate having to press fuel pump fitting (if it were available) onto hard nylon tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One would have to drop the tank and have special tool to separate quick connector at engine fuel rail. This would eliminate having to press fuel pump fitting (if it were available) onto hard nylon tubing.

I found using a 5/16" fuel hose from the auto parts store fits both the outside of the hard fuel line and the barbs of the valve pretty well. Plus I added 2 clamps just in case.



I think I'm going to order this: https://www.amazon.com/Return-Check...F7G57HX1BA32&refRID=KR2KF7R4F7G57HX1BA32&th=1


I was worried that it's called a "non return" valve. But I think that's just because it's typically used to prevent fuel from returning to the tank and not because they don't want you to use it on the return fuel line.
 

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Matt, I’ve used these on PCV and evap. Pipes. They are easy to fit, and work, but I’ve had a couple fail. I guess you get what you pay for. I periodically blow/suck mine to test them, and that will involve a bit work in your application.

If I need any more I’ll be investigating more reliable types. There must be some out there.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A stuck closed valve sound like a bad problem in this application. I think I'll stick with no valve for now. But you'd think the Pro-parts ones selling or $3 can't be much better than.
 
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