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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)


I know there have been a few threads on the power window regulators recently, but after receiving some PM’s about replacing the window regulator, I decided to create a write-up, as promised in this thread.

This write-up details the problems that have been reported to occur with the front power windows, and the solutions to those problems. Also included are part numbers and temporary solutions to keep your window closed whilst waiting for parts to arrive.

Hopefully this is helpful to those wishing to carry out their own problem diagnosis and repairs to save a few bucks.

I will post a print-friendly pdf file here when the hosting site I use is back up and running.


DISCLAIMER:

This article is intended for guidance only for use by competent persons. SaabCentral or any contributing individual cannot be held responsible for any harm to property or person arising from the use of such.


The term “power window regulator” is somewhat ambiguous so I’m going to use the term “window lift” to describe the device that pushes and pulls the window up and down, and the term “motor/gearbox” to describe the motor that drives the window lift.





It is a known common problem that the 9440 9-3SS power windows, particularly the fronts, are prone to malfunctioning beyond repair (without purchasing new parts). If you’re unable to claim the malfunction on warranty and your dealer won’t cover it, this is a guide to help you in determining where the problem originated, how it can be fixed and the parts you’ll need in order to carry out the repairs yourself.

There have been reports of this problem originating in a number of areas of the power window design; some are more expensive to repair than others. These include:

· The clamps that grip the window glass work loose;
· Malfunction of the window lift mechanism;
· Malfunction of the motor/gearbox assembly.

To properly diagnose the origin of the problem, you will need to expose the workings of the power window…
 

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Discussion Starter #2
BEFORE BEGINNING, LOWER THE WINDOW ENOUGH TO CREATE A 5cm OPENING (IF POSSIBLE). This allows better access to the window lift.

1. Remove the inner door handle cover: Use a blunt butter knife to remove the cover by inserting the knife under the handle at the bottom section and working your way toward the top, lifting upwards. You will feel like you’re about to break something but it WILL pop off – the plastic’s reasonably flexible. Be careful not to scratch the matte paint on the handle in the process.




2. Remove the screws from the handle using the torx screwdriver from the factory tool set.


3. Undo the door trim clips by inserting the butter knife between the trim and door panel and gently prising out the trim. Once you’ve popped one clip out, you should be able to use your fingers to release the rest by moving along the trim as the clips come undone.



4. Lift the door trim upwards so it comes loose from the window sill.

5. Remove the door handle cable. (See picture below Step 3)

6. Remove the connector from the door panel and the window lift.
Important: Take care when releasing the locking mechanism on the electrical connector so as not to damage the connector. Using a small flathead screwdriver to initially lift the clip, pull the halves straight apart to avoid bending the pins.

7. Unplug the connector from the wiring harness to the door trim.

8. Remove the door speaker by undoing the three screws and place aside.

9. Carefully and patiently peel back the foam water barrier, making sure you don’t stretch/tear it and also ensure the sticky ‘goo’ remains attached to the foam. Place the foam in a clean environment.

You should now have a clear view of the workings of the power window:



10. Remove the motor/gearbox assembly by removing the three fastening screws.




11. Unclip the connector from the motor and place motor/gearbox assembly aside.


12. (Optional) Have a beer...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
13. Firstly, inspect the pulley cable to ensure that it is cleanly wound onto the white plastic spiral winch drum. This drum would usually be covered by the motor/gearbox assembly, but should now be visible. Check the condition of the cable; if the cable is kinked or frayed, you will need to replace the window lift – proceed to Step 16. If not, check the condition of the winch drum; if the cable is not cleanly wound onto the drum and looks as though it’s ‘cross-threaded’ onto the drum, it’s likely there is a kink somewhere in the cable (not necessarily visible) which has damaged the drum. If you’ve been hearing a “clink” sound when winding the window up and down, the cable and/or drum are almost certainly damaged beyond repair. The only solution to this is to replace the Window Lift, especially if it looks like the picture below. Proceed to Step 16. If the cable and winch drum look OK, proceed to Step 14.




14. If the cable and drum look completely fine like in the photo below, you will need to check that the motor is functioning correctly.




Re-connect the motor but do not fasten it to the door – leave it free. Temporarily reconnect the plugs that you had to disconnect from the door trim when removing it, but leave the door trim hanging freely. Turn the key to the ‘on’ position and push the button for the damaged window. Inspect the operation of the motor. If the output shaft is rotating as usual with no abnormal noises, the motor/gearbox assembly is OK and you can proceed to Step 15. If the motor is not functioning correctly, there is either an electrical issue (which would probably have triggered a message on the SID) OR the motor/gearbox assembly is probably broken and will need to be replaced. Make your own judgment on this. Proceed to Step 18 for part numbers.

15. If you have confirmed that the cable, drum and motor are all OK, disconnect the door trim and motor again and place them aside. Check that the window clamps that slide up and down the window lift assembly are gripping the glass firmly. If they are not clamping the glass, loosen the bolts (DO NOT REMOVE THEM COMPLETELY). If the clamps are not visible/accessible, manually rotate the winch drum to move the clamps up or down, and into view <insert common sense here>. Realign the glass into the clamps and retighten the clamps. If the clamps continue to fall off or the window operation is sluggish, you may have to clean the window tracks. Proceed to Step 20.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
16. Removing the Window Lift: (Part numbers in Step 18)

16-1. Open the window about 5 cm.

16-2. If you haven’t already, remove the inner door trim and foam weather barrier (outlined in steps 1-9).

16-3. Remove the outer weather-strip for the window. Lift the rear end using the butter knife and pull out the moulding from the base of the door mirror.

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/1042/step163df3.jpg



16-4. Slacken the bolts to release the window.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/5681/step164os4.jpg


16-5. Lift the rear end of the window. Hold it at an angle and lift it up.

16-6. Remove the nuts and bolt securing the window lift.

16-7. Press out the window lift so that the studs come free of the mounting holes.

16-8. Remove the upper lift cable from the clip.

16-9. Unplug the motor.

16-10. Angle out the rear guide channel through the hole.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/2835/step1610li4.jpg


16-11. Continue with the front guide channel and motor (if still attached).

If you have to wait for parts to be ordered and arrive, proceed to Step 19 (Step 18 contains part numbers). Otherwise, proceed to step 17
 

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Discussion Starter #5
17. Fitting the new Window Lift:



17-1 Make sure the rubberised mountings for the window lift are in place.

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/879/step171iq4.jpg



17-2 Continue with the other section and insert the studs into the mounting holes.


17-3 Fit the upper lift cable to the clip.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/3792/step173sm3.jpg



17-4 Fit the nuts and bolt. Fit the upper ones first.

17-5 Plug in the connector.

17-6 Fit the front of the window into the U-moulding. Hold the rear edge at an angle so that it locates in the U-moulding. Make sure the window is located properly in the Umoulding by closing and opening the window.

17-7 Press down the window so that it rests against the rubberised window mountings (illustration viewed from outside).

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/6233/step177fe8.jpg



17-8 Tighten the bolts securing the window.

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/8553/step178ko3.jpg


17-9 Fit the outer weather-strip.

Proceed to Step 20.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
18. Part numbers:

The part numbers that encompass the motor/gearbox assembly are dependant on whether or not your vehicle has pinch protection.

2003 - 2007

Front left window lift: 12793728
Front right window lift: 12793729
Front left motor/gearbox assembly (with pinch protection): 12 788 799
Front right motor/gearbox assembly (with pinch protection): 12 788 800
Front left motor/gearbox assembly (without pinch protection): 12 788 803
Front right motor/gearbox assembly (without pinch protection): 12 788 804

It seems SAAB’s phasing out the kits, meaning you’d have to buy the parts separately if you wanted a kit. There may still be a few kits lying around in stock so the old part numbers are:

2003 – 2004:

Front left Kit (with pinch protection):12 802 320
Front right Kit (with pinch protection):12 802 321
Front left kit (without pinch protection): 12 788 911
Front right kit (without pinch protection): 12 788 912


2005 – 2007:

Front left Kit (with pinch protection):12 755 681
Front right Kit (with pinch protection):12 755 682
Front left kit (without pinch protection): 12 755 683
Front right kit (without pinch protection): 12 755 684
 

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Discussion Starter #7
19. If you are unable to keep the window closed due to damaged part and want to keep driving around and parking in public places, you can prop the glass up with a length of carefully cut timber. Do this by cutting a 525mm length of 20mm x 40mm (or thereabouts) timber, and making a “V” groove at the top, with an opening of 6mm, 5mm deep (see illustration below). If you don’t have a piece of timber this size, design your own that performs the same task.





Inside your door, hold the window up with your hand, maneuver the timber into the door and rotate it so that the window glass is seated into the groove in the timber. The timber should be positioned vertically inside the door. Make your own judgment: If you feel like you’re using too much force to insert the timber piece, slightly alter its dimensions to solve the problem and try again. You do, however, need the timber to keep the window up when you’re driving around, so a reasonably tight fit is desired. This should be fine until the parts arrive. Replace the door trim but leave the water barrier off and in a clean environment until you have fitted the new part, unless you’re expecting a long wait until you fit it. If it’s the passenger door that’s affected, and you don’t mind, leave the door trim off too. This will save you some time when fitting the new part, however I wouldn’t recommend leaving the driver’s door trim off.

NOTE: If you leave the door trim off while driving around, you will get a message on your SID because the door lock mechanism (solenoid) for the affected door will not be operational (as it is not connected). This message will disappear when you replace and reconnect the door trim. The door can still be locked/unlocked manually.

Once the parts have arrived, go to Step 17.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
20. Once you have finished the parts installation, ensure that all of the items including the motor have been securely fastened.

21. Temporarily connect the motor to the door trim.

22. Close and open the window a few times to check its operation.

23. Fit the water barrier foam, seals and door trim in the same fashion that they were removed, but in reverse order.

24. Cars with pinch protection: Perform calibration of pinch protection…
  • Shut the doors
  • Turn the key to the ‘ON’ position.
  • Open the side window about 15 cm.
  • Close the window completely and hold the button for at least 1 second after the window stops.
  • Press down the button and the window will now go down by itself.
  • Wait at least 1 second.
  • Drive the window fully up and hold the button in position until closing is confirmed with a sound signal.
Hopefully your window is now back in order!
 

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Thanks, Vector Dan

I diagnosed and performed this repair with minimal difficulties, thanks to this post. A couple of notes on repairing the right side front window regulator:

1. The aftermarket window lift kit, ~$115 after shipping, initially looked like it did not have threads in where the motor is supposed to mount to the lift. It turns out the material is malleable and the fine-pitch bolts will self-thread.

2. I scratched my painted side-view mirror moulding that I removed and painted a year ago : / It's very minor, at least. Careful putting the window back in.

3. I wasn't sure how to remove the weatherstripping, so I didn't. I didn't have much problem getting the window out/in with the weatherstripping still installed (although maybe this is what lead me to scratch the mirror moulding).

4. I don't know why the window lift cables got kinked and/or fell off the pulley, but, I think putting some grease or oil on there would be prudent.
 

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Any idea what the part number for the clamp that grabs the window is? Or even just the Rubber insulator that is on it?

I think my clamp came loose and when the window would be operating it was beating on the rubber piece until it finally ripped off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Anyone know part number for the rear window lifts for a MY08?
This site is handy:

http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/93window03on.htm

Just in case the mod's delete the link for whatever reason, part numbers quoted as follows:

93 2003-2003 Window Regulator Front Driver 4D/5D, Finger Protection OES Part# 12805987

93 2003-2010 Regulator Front 4/5Dr Driver W/o motor AFT Part# 12793728

93 2003-2010 Regulator Front 4/5DrDriver W/o motor OES Part# 12793728

93 2003-2010 Regulator Front 4/5DrPassengerW/o motor AFT Part# 12793729

93 2003-2010 Regulator Front 4/5DrPassengerW/o motor OES Part# 12793729

93 2003-2006 Regulator Rear 4/5Dr Driver W/o motor 163.06 OES Part# 12793730

93 2003-2006 Regulator Rear 4/5DrPassengerW/o motor OEM Part# 12793731

93 2006-2011 Regulator Rear 4/5DrDriver W/o motor OES Part# 12763708

93 2006-2011 Regulator Rear 4/5DrPassengerW/o motor OES Part# 12763707


Selz202 said:
Any idea what the part number for the clamp that grabs the window is? Or even just the Rubber insulator that is on it?

I think my clamp came loose and when the window would be operating it was beating on the rubber piece until it finally ripped off.
As far as I'm aware it doesn't have a separate part number and can only be purchased with the regulator, however if you can get hold of a good OEM parts supplier they may be able to help you... at least that's been my experience in the past.

Cheers,
Dan
 

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I don't mean to hijack this thread but... my bummer is that the two window clamps holding the glass on my front driver's side have worked loose. This is after I replaced the window lift/regulator assembly with a brand new one a month ago. I know I did tighten down the new clamps (short of cracking the glass).

I'm beginning to think the problem has as much or more to do with the glass encountering more friction in its slide tracks as the vehicle ages as it is to do with faulty or aging window regulator mechanisms.

Has anyone sucessfully lubricated the window glass slides. If so, can you explain how you did it? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't mean to hijack this thread but... my bummer is that the two window clamps holding the glass on my front driver's side have worked loose. This is after I replaced the window lift/regulator assembly with a brand new one a month ago. I know I did tighten down the new clamps (short of cracking the glass).

I'm beginning to think the problem has as much or more to do with the glass encountering more friction in its slide tracks as the vehicle ages as it is to do with faulty or aging window regulator mechanisms.

Has anyone sucessfully lubricated the window glass slides. If so, can you explain how you did it? :confused:
Not hijacking at all! I've had some luck with the following...

AS WITH ALL DIY JOBS, AT YOUR OWN RISK AND USE YOUR DISCRETION!

1. Drive the window down or, better still, remove the window glass completely.
2. Grab a 'medium size' flat head screwdriver (say 250mm total length)
3. Pull a dry rag over the head of the screwdriver. You can double or triple the rag over if you need to, just make sure there's plenty of rag thickness over the head of the screwdriver to avoid damage. T-shirt material doubled or tripled seems to work pretty well, depending on thickness of material.
4. Using the screwdriver as a guiding tool, with one hand on the handle and the other holding the rag over the end, insert the end of the screwdriver (with rag) into the window tracks and pull the rag through the tracks on the sides as well as the top and bottom, repositioning the rag to a clean spot every now and then. It's easiest to do this with the window completely removed but if you leave it in just be careful of the glass when cleaning the bottom one. Use your discretion if you feel there is too much or too little rag material. A fair bit of dust should collect on the rag. Try wetting the rag if you're not seeing much, that might help loosen dust.
5. If your window is removed, clean the side tracks that run down inside the door too.
6. After you stop seeing dust collect on the rag, give the window a workout and see whether it seems to be sliding any easier. If not, proceed...
7. Use a small amount of Vaseline on a clean rag and again run it through the window tracks with the help of the screwdriver, however only use the Vaseline on the side tracks (not top and bottom) as you don't want Vaseline streaks all over your window when it goes up and down!

Sorry for all the words... Hope that helps...

Cheers,
Dan
 

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Vector Dan, a load of thanks for the invaluable info!! It's good to know you've had luck with this, not merely a suggestion. I'll try the dust removal thing first and follow up with the vaseline on the side slides only if need be -I fear the vaseline would be a future dust magnet. Cheers to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Vector Dan, a load of thanks for the invaluable info!! It's good to know you've had luck with this, not merely a suggestion. I'll try the dust removal thing first and follow up with the vaseline on the side slides only if need be -I fear the vaseline would be a future dust magnet. Cheers to you.
Too easy! Yep, agree with the possible dust magnet scenario, although haven't had any issues to date.

Cheers!
 

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Does anyone know if cable replacement kits for window regulators like this one AutoMotoParts.eu
2004 saab 9-3 aero work? The general consensus is that once the cables/wires are tangled a new regulator must be purchased. But what about fixing the factory regulator with a regulator repair kit? Why would the sell these if they didnt work? I am the one idiot that bout this repair kit instead of buying a new regulator :(
 

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Does anyone know if cable replacement kits for window regulators like this one AutoMotoParts.eu
2004 saab 9-3 aero work? The general consensus is that once the cables/wires are tangled a new regulator must be purchased. But what about fixing the factory regulator with a regulator repair kit? Why would the sell these if they didnt work? I am the one idiot that bout this repair kit instead of buying a new regulator :(
I don't see why they wouldn't work, could be a bit more fiddling around because it doesn't come all assembled to the slides, but from the photo the kit appears to contain everything you'll need to fix a broken regulator (pulley and cables).

I think the hardest part would be removing the old pulley from the existing slide and installing the new pulley with the correct number of cable wraps around it (see photo under step 13, above). Sorry, I can't really give any advice here as I haven't done it. Does the kit come with any instructions on how to install and whether you need to apply any lube/grease after installing?
 

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Hi

My drivers door window stopped working (thankfully in the up position) a few weeks ago so I had a look at this thread. I disconnected the 2 pin plug and tested it with a 12v LED strip which flashed when the window button was used. I decided to try the 12v power for the LEDS against the pin with no joy. However as soon as I reconnected things the window worked fine. Could it be it just needed a little oomph from the 12v source (mains to 12v transformer) which if so may indicate my battery on its way out. Maybe the light problem with my SID in my other post.
 
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