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Discussion Starter #1
I need help deciding where to start. Big leak started to happen right after I drove aggressively through windy roads. (Video attached below) Was a small leak before and was planning on dropping the oil pan and putting in a new seal. Now I got this issue, so I’ll be fixing both now. I have 2002 Saab 9-3 2.0t. Just need help on deciding the parts to buy and resources to do this job. Thanks

 

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Holy crap.... I have never seen anything like that before.... That's.... Intense.

Change both the front seal and oil pump oring at the same time. You need a way to get the crank pulley off - impact tools are the easy button - and you need a big pair of circlip pliers. Remove the bolt, remove the pulley, remove the circlip, then remove the oil pump cover with FMS at the same time. Replace the FMS on the bench, install a new o-ring, and put it back together. If you have the aforementioned tools, this is 20-30m of work.

All that said, I would check to be sure your PCV system is in good shape. This type of massive leak feels like a pressurized crankcase to me.
 

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Holy crap.... I have never seen anything like that before.... That's.... Intense.

Change both the front seal and oil pump oring at the same time. You need a way to get the crank pulley off - impact tools are the easy button - and you need a big pair of circlip pliers. Remove the bolt, remove the pulley, remove the circlip, then remove the oil pump cover with FMS at the same time. Replace the FMS on the bench, install a new o-ring, and put it back together. If you have the aforementioned tools, this is 20-30m of work.

All that said, I would check to be sure your PCV system is in good shape. This type of massive leak feels like a pressurized crankcase to me.
Thanks for the info. I’ll start by ordering those parts. Could all that oil be from a bad seal? I feel like a major component broke or cracked. The car still runs as goes into gears, although I’m not driving it any where in this shape. When RPMs hit 2000-2500, engine starts to make a flapping/clanking noise. My initial feeling was that it was coming from the turbo and maybe could be part of the PCV system your talking about. It sucks because I’ve been building this car for the past 3 months and it was running great and then I most have run her too hard last night.
 

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Get a Corteco seal if you can. It's OEM.

BUT, that's some serious pressure in your crankcase. I'm thinking you have a different issue.

Can you fill it with oil and give us a 20 second tape with the flapping cranking noise? Then shut it off and don't run it any more.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Get a Corteco seal if you can. It's OEM.

BUT, that's some serious pressure in your crankcase. I'm thinking you have a different issue.

Can you fill it with oil and give us a 20 second tape with the flapping cranking noise? Then shut it off and don't run it any more.
I will send a video tomorrow.
 

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When you're doing that, leave the oil cap loose. Be prepared for it to make a mess - but the point would be to see if there is pressure in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What’s the worse case scenario? Just so I can be mentally prepared for what I might be getting myself into. Blown head gasket? Am I going to have to get a new engine/rebuild?
 

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Put a rubber glove over the oil fill tube when you pull out the dipstick. Let us know if it pumps up when you run it.

More data is needs to have any idea what's going on.

Might be a good idea to pull the zero belt when you start it cold. That will eliminate any question as to whether it's internal or an accessory. Two tests in one. Only run the engine for a minute to get the video since you have no cooling or charging with the belt off.
 

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Assuming the PCV isn't obstructed, worst case is shot rings letting combustion gasses fill the sump... It creates pressure blowing out seals and forcing oil out. Definitely be sure the PCV system isn't obstructed. If you have a leak down tester, I'd bust that out to be sure one way or another.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Assuming the PCV isn't obstructed, worst case is shot rings letting combustion gasses fill the sump... It creates pressure blowing out seals and forcing oil out. Definitely be sure the PCV system isn't obstructed. If you have a leak down tester, I'd bust that out to be sure one way or another.
It doesn’t look (sound) good


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Engine knock?
Rod Knock?
Please someone tell me it’s just a bad spark plug!
 

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I mean.... Check the spark plugs, but between that noise and oil pouring out of the thing I would suspect the bottom end is toast.
Yeah you could start by removing Spark plugs , That will at least get you started on Engine removal and evaluation towards a bottom end rebuild....
Perhaps before you start removing anything , Measure the oil pressure , I suspect its been starved ( sludge and a blocked pick up ).
Interested in your comments re 3 month BUILD , what has been done engine wise ?
Sorry but the engine is unlikely salvageable , but you wont know until you to start inspecting and measuring .
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah you could start by removing Spark plugs , That will at least get you started on Engine removal and evaluation towards a bottom end rebuild....
Perhaps before you start removing anything , Measure the oil pressure , I suspect its been starved ( sludge and a blocked pick up ).
Interested in your comments re 3 month BUILD , what has been done engine wise ?
Sorry but the engine is unlikely salvageable , but you wont know until you to start inspecting and measuring .
Koni shocks/eibach springs
Down pipe/exhaust
Stage 3 BCB tune
Soon was going to install ETS intercooler

I’ll start by taking the engine apart, lower the oil pan, and learn as I go. I bought the Saab cheap and I wanted to learn some mechanic skills. We’ll see if the engine is salvageable. If not, drop a engine from another Saab or use the current Saab as a parts car and rebuild another 9-3?
I’ll continue to keep you guys updated with photos and videos. Thank you for the information.
 

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Koni shocks/eibach springs
Down pipe/exhaust
Stage 3 BCB tune
Soon was going to install ETS intercooler

I’ll start by taking the engine apart, lower the oil pan, and learn as I go. I bought the Saab cheap and I wanted to learn some mechanic skills. We’ll see if the engine is salvageable. If not, drop a engine from another Saab or use the current Saab as a parts car and rebuild another 9-3?
I’ll continue to keep you guys updated with photos and videos. Thank you for the information.
Thats totally dependant on the condition of the car overall .
IF you decide to look for another engine , then I suggest a B204 bottom end and retain the T7 head.
 

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That's a rod bearing. Motor is done. Mine sounded EXACTLY like it. I dropped in a B235 from a 9-5. You're going to want to go through it and do the seals and bearings and gaskets and mounts, and hoses and.... and....

If you plan on making big power (above 300hp) get forged pistons or a B234 short block. I couldn't find one so I went with a B235.
 

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Tim - also download the WIS and EPC if you haven't already. The links are on the forum here.
Its a little easy to use than the online version - well I think anyway.
If your going to be doing serious tool work the WIS is the best guide you can use, combined with some help from Saab Central experts.
Hope you get it sorted.
+1 on the Koni as well.
 

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Just think of how many more saabs would still be on the road if they kept the B204 lower and used the T7 head, Basically bulletproof, Tim93s it could be fun to drive around a parking lot till it explodes though. I won't even offer the 8 bucks.:(
 
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Just think of how many more saabs would still be on the road if they kept the B204 lower and used the T7 head, Basically bulletproof, Tim93s it could be fun to drive around a parking lot till it explodes though. I won't even offer the 8 bucks.:(
it has Koni's the $ 8 would be well Spent !
But yeah if only they had kept B2x4 , I had a b234 and a b205 side by side stripped recently , the difference in componetry size and weight is unbelievable.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did a compression test and received between 155-165 on all cylinders.

Here is a closer view of the leak.

 
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