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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I'm sure some of you have read my thread entitled, "Saab Saves Lives" Well I found a replacement for my beloved Saab today. It's pretty much the same car I had before except it's midnight blue. 1997 900 SE with a CD Changer and good records. I have a few questions for you guys though. I noticed that the rear driver's side passenger window sometimes is slow to roll down. Then suddenly it will go back to normal speed. Is this a window problem or a switchpack problem? Also, the Saab emblem on the hood is faded. How do you take it off and replace it? The engine seems to have some wierd yellowish coked on stuff on some parts too. Any idea what that could be? Thanks again for the forum's information and I'm definitely sticking with Saab for a long time.

Lawrence
 

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That was fast.

For the windows, thats strange, I would say since it does get to the point where it operates at normal speed that it has to do with something mechanical in the window. Plus, I've openned up my window switchpack before and its just some pivoting copper strips in there, so nothing to really 'regulate' the speed of the window.

For the hood emblem, you take a flathead screwdriver or perhaps a knife and pry it up from the outside, but make sure you put something on the finished paint of the hood so as not to scratch it, Their are two soft metal 'prongs' that hold it to the hood. It should pretty much come right up with the prying. Mine is starting to peel away, tempted to try repainting before going with the replacement ($25 I think).

What parts of the engine has this yellowish coking? It appears on the strut braces of my car that someone dripped some sort of yellowish resin, why, I don't know, it doesn't seem to really be bonding anything. Could this be what you have?

So how many miles on it and how much are they asking?

Good luck with this potential new purchase!
 

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The window is an easy fix.

Go into your dealer and ask for replacement guides.
They cost me $2.00 CDN a piece and there are per door.

Since they are plastic, they wear and that is what is causing your issue.
Remove the door panel and replace ... it took me about 20-25 minutes to do my front passenger door last year.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply guys! Slaab, the yellow stuff is on the strut brace on my Saab too. I wonder what that stuff is? Scott- thanks for the tip! I'll call the dealer and ask them for the guides. Are there instructions to install them anywhere on SC? Thanks again!

Lawrence
 

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I, too, had some power window trouble.

It seemed as if both rear windows were very erratic, they only operate reliably with their own switch.
I suspect the console switches, due to so little use in the past nigh ten years, are "sticking?"...

SlaabforLife life, I see where you have disassembled the switch.. Do you think is "non-operation" is possible.
The front windows work perfectly..
As I thought, the GM/SAAB door panels are easy to remove . The pull handle is two-piece , a little screwdriver separates it.
I used a tiny screwdriver to remove the screw cover at the door handle.Remove the two or three screws for the little storage bin and extract it - wiggle and pull straight up....
This operation is mostly yanking and prying..
I discovered that a fairly large, hard foam block had fallen off from its mount pins. This could have be caused by a PO slamming the door... Here the design can be improved upon - better materials or some additional quality...
 

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TigerSilhouette said:
Thanks for the reply guys! Slaab, the yellow stuff is on the strut brace on my Saab too. I wonder what that stuff is? Scott- thanks for the tip! I'll call the dealer and ask them for the guides. Are there instructions to install them anywhere on SC? Thanks again!

Lawrence
I also have this, its almost like a clear coat has been cooked and heated too high and has since discolored.
 

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hmmm we stumbled across a common problem ... what is that cooked on yellow junk in the engine area ... and more importantly, how can it be removed??
 

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2003FXSTB said:
hmmm we stumbled across a common problem ... what is that cooked on yellow junk in the engine area ... and more importantly, how can it be removed??
I believe that is rust proofing that was applied to some cars, and not to others. Maybe depending on where they were first sold. Not sure why the strut brace was sprayed, maybe so cars treated that way could be identified.

The stuff is much softer then paint. Any cleaner you trust in the engine compartment (like SimpleGreen for example, or even Dawn), a plastic kitchen scrub pad and some patience and it comes right off.
 

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earthworm, are you asking whether or not the switchpack could ever be non-functional? Below is a photo of the inside. Unless you put a decent load on those copper pieces I can't picture it truely going out for good. Attached is the photo of the inerds.

As for rust proofing, that is a great possibility, but mine isn't sprayed onto the brace, it appears to have been dribbled on from above, with highly raised spots where the drops went no further. Definitely not a real precise coating on it.
 

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Slaab4life said:
As for rust proofing, that is a great possibility, but mine isn't sprayed onto the brace, it appears to have been dribbled on from above, with highly raised spots where the drops went no further. Definitely not a real precise coating on it.
Here is what I meant. I was told the stuff was rust proofing, but I suppose I can't be sure of that. Could be a glue, I suppose.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thats what mine looks like too! Its over the master brake cylinder too. I thought the oil cap exploded at some time and sprayed oil everywhere. If its just rustproofing then I'm not going to worry about it. BTW how does one take out the window switchpack? I plan on taking the one out of my old saab and putting it in the new one i just bought.
 

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My goo appears just as you have it on your Saab too PMI, on both sides of the brace. Glad to know I'm not the only one, and glad to know that it's rustproofing! Surely explains why my car hasn't rusted out yet. :cheesy:

Window switchpack is easy to get out. You'll see a little cut out spot in the center console (I think in front of the switchpack), that allows a screwdriver blade in. Just use a screwdriver there to wedge it up. once you have it up you'll see the wiring harness, just disconnect that and plug it into the new vehicle.
 

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Slaab4life said:
My goo appears just as you have it on your Saab too PMI, on both sides of the brace. Glad to know I'm not the only one, and glad to know that it's rustproofing! Surely explains why my car hasn't rusted out yet. :cheesy: QUOTE]That's what I have been told, but I may check into it a little more and post if I find something interesting. I am 100% sure it was in my engine bay when I took delivery with less than 200 miles on the car, so it is not the result of some hose spraying gunk out. Never bothered me, and I was surprised when it started coming off with detergent and a plastic scrub pad (while cleaning a couple years worth of power steering fluid "seeps").

earthworm: Not to hijack the thread, but speaking of rustproofing or lack thereoff, have you seen the pic I posted of my hatch seam???

Btw, Tiger: I have been told not to use a screwdriver or knife on the hood emblem or other badges. You can use an old credit card, and if it does not come up easily, some dental floss with a sawing motion to separate the badge and prevent paint from coming up with it - not sure it matters much on my own hood any more, but just passing it on since you just picked up the car. The dental floss trick works, I used it to get some glued trim off another car for someone who is a bit more "detail" conscious than I am ... <chuckle>
 
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