[DougR]

If you want to skip all my ramblings, please just go to the sections in between ***** points.

I posted here yesterday looking for a good mechanic in the area, complaining that if I had the room to work on the car I would. We'll I have realized that I do have the space to work on the car on weekends. There is an accounting office who's parking lot runs right up to my lawn. I wash the cars there on weekends, so I figure why not throw the car up on a ramp on the weekends, and just make sure I am very tidy about it. The owners of the office have even said we can park in the lot all the time, but I don't because I would just feel like I was taking advantage of them.

Anyway I got out my SAAB service manual, and looked at the 60,000 maintenance list. From what people have been saying, the dealer likes to nick you at least 700 USD for this job, and for the life of me I cannot see where this comes from. Pricing it out, it seems like the parts are ~200, so the rest is all labor???? I don't need tires, as mine are brand new, so ~200 should get me the following...please verify my list of things that need to be changed if you will.
******
Engine Oil and Filter
Fuel Filter(plus 4 rings)
Spark Plugs(4)
Engine air Filter
Cabin air filter
Change Drive Belt

The rest all seems to be checkup work.
******
I am at ~ 56000 miles now, so I figure if I get started this weekend, I will have plenty of time to get all of these things done by 60,000, and can accomodate some bad weather weekends.

Of course I am going to have a ton of questions, as above. Truth be told, I have not worked on a car, other than adding washing fluid, checking oil levels, etc, in quite a few years. And even my experience beyond that is very little. So at this point lets pretend I have never even looked and the engine of my car, that should be a safe starting point But I do have a desire to learn, and do not want to drive something I do not understand, that is just bad. I do have the luxury of more than one car, so if I cannot drive the SAAB because of something, it is not a disaster to my life, so now more than ever is the time to learn.

As I said before, I want to take this slow and do it over the course of a few months. I thought a good way to get back into things was to change the oil, and spark plugs. I figure this would be a nice way to ease into things.
*****
So at this point, can you help me with my first adventure? I am going to pick up a set of ramps today at the auto store, and hopefully do this on the weekend (weather cooperating).

For this I realize I need an oil filter, oil, 4 spark plugs, and tools?

For the oil I was thinking SAAB filter from SAAB dealer, and Mobile 1 full synthetic 0w/40. The car is probably running semi now, but I would like to go full, is that a problem? Also would a Bosch filter be OK, or should I get genuine SAAB?

As far as the sparkplugs, what should I get? Should I get some NGK's from the dealer, or is there a good plug I can pick up at say AutoZone or PepBoys.

Lastly, what tools will I need for the job? I really have very little tools, and will need to start building a tool set as I go along with this. Basically I would like to buy the tools as I need them for the job, and in the end have a full set of needed tools for the car, I don't want a bunch of tools I don't need.

Thank you very much everyone, please help mold me into the beer guzzling weekend warrior I know I can be.

*****

 

[Slaab4life]

Engine Oil and Filter
Fuel Filter(plus 4 rings)
Spark Plugs(4)
Engine air Filter
Cabin air filter
Change Drive Belt

Thats the major replacements for the 60k? Yeah, I don't know where the $700 is coming from.

As for oil filters, I have been using Bosch filters since buying the car 1.5 years ago and haven't had any trouble. Metal surfaces in under the valve cover look pretty clean. As for what oil to use, I don't know.

Sparkplugs, I have stuck with the NGK's. Don't buy them from the dealership, check out http://www.eeuroparts.com. From my searching, they have the best price on them.

For tools, start with a set of METRIC sockets with a ratchet. Sears has a nice set that includes standard sizes too, but definitely get one with an assortment of metric sizes. This will be necessary for removing the oil drain plug (and may be useful when it comes to fuel filter chaning time). You may need an oil filter wrench to remove the filter, though it should only be hand tightened on in the first place. If you can, you may want to crawl under the car and see if you can hand turn your oil filter. If you can, then don't worry about the oil filter wrench. You may want to get a spark puller socket, though in the trunk, in the tool set by the spare tire, that brassy colored thing will fit on the spark plugs and remove them. Hopefully this is a healthy start of information for your 'transformation'.

 

[CleveSaab]

Thats the major replacements for the 60k? Yeah, I don't know where the $700 is coming from.

.
The major service includes the above AND:
*Drain and renew brake fluid
*Drain, flush and renew radiator fluid
*One other fluid. Can't remember if it's tranny or power steering


I paid for the 35K service. Including a belt AND pulley it was $550.
If you are doing the belt, do the IDLER Pulley as well.

 

[PMI]

On my car the oil drain plug is 13mm w. a copper washer, OD 24mm ID 15mm.

I think the fuel filter sizes are:
banjo bolts, 17mm, 19mm
filter, 22mm, 27mm
not 100% sure, hopefully someone can confirm that

The most common sizes for minor maintenance are 8, 10, 12 and 13 mm, but for more you pretty much need a complete set up to 19 mm.

The most common torx sizes are from T25 to T40, you will need both the bits and a reversible screwdriver or similar.

Some Allen bolts (and manual transmission drain plug) etc. require 8-mm hex keys, bit, or both.

A few open/box end combination wrenches, not a complete set by any means.

 

[DougR]

.
The major service includes the above AND:
*Drain and renew brake fluid
*Drain, flush and renew radiator fluid
*One other fluid. Can't remember if it's tranny or power steering


I paid for the 35K service. Including a belt AND pulley it was $550.
If you are doing the belt, do the IDLER Pulley as well.

It does not show those items in my service manual checklist. Im sure it would not hurt though.

Thanks for all of the great information, I am trying to slowly piece this together.

For starters, could someone tell me if the following basic tool set would be beneficial:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...OL&pid=00930485000&subcat=Mechanics+Tool+Sets

If not, could you look at this link, and let me know which would be a good purchase?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/sear...Mechanics+Tool+Sets&displayTarget=Subcategory

After getting this, I will need to build up my library of torx, etc.

 

[Sacko]

i'm not sure if you need all of the things that come in that set, and it looks pretty cheap. trust me, you don't want really cheap tools, they'll just break on you.

anyway, from my experience, pretty much everything on the car ranges from around 10mm to 20mm (maybe a few that go down to 8mm???) and i've never used a "standard" socket. an adjustable wrench does come in handy every once and a while, but those are the only things that you'll probably need.

edit: this one might be handy, then buy more sockets as you find you need them: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00934911000&subcat=Mechanics+Tool+Sets

this one would definately cover you: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00934823000&subcat=Mechanics+Tool+Sets

and you'd probably want to get an adjustable wrench in addition to either of those sets.

 

[PMI]

The serpentine belt tensioner has to be released to work on the belt and pulleys, or any belt driven pumps etc.

Most people use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet extension, but the aluminum casting on the tensioner arm is fragile, and some report breaking it. I remember a mechanic yelling out to someone that my car was the one with the "crappy" tensioner... Not what you want to do in a parking lot on a weekend. A piece of 1/2-inch square hollow steel tube for about $3 from a h/w store will do as well, and if you use too much force, the end of the tube bends before the tensioner arm will brake...

 

[DougR]

The serpentine belt tensioner has to be released to work on the belt and pulleys, or any belt driven pumps etc.

Most people use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet extension, but the aluminum casting on the tensioner arm is fragile, and some report breaking it. I remember a mechanic yelling out to someone that my car was the one with the "crappy" tensioner... Not what you want to do in a parking lot on a weekend. A piece of 1/2-inch square hollow steel tube for about $3 from a h/w store will do as well, and if you use too much force, the end of the tube bends before the tensioner arm will brake...

So you are saying that a 1/2 inch drive ratchet extension can break the tensioner? And in it's place I should use a 1/2 inch square hollow tube so that it bends instead of the tensioner?

 

[PMI]

So you are saying that a 1/2 inch drive ratchet extension can break the tensioner? And in it's place I should use a 1/2 inch square hollow tube so that it bends instead of the tensioner?

Yes, especially if you have to buy something. The hollow tube is cheap, and give before the tensioner. A 1/2-inch ratchet extension is a piece of hardened steel, if you use too much force, or pull at an angle, the tensioner casting will break.

 

[DougR]

great advice thanks.

I have another question. I am trying to get a hold of a 900NG Haynes manual. Any idea where the best place to get one is. Is there anywhere that I can get one online. I know that partsforsaab has them, but It is REALLY expensive with the shipping and pound to dollar conversion rate. Amazon says they have them, but they don't ship for about a month. I called all around my area last night trying to locate one, but I cannot seem to get a hold of one. Is there anywhere that lets you buy such a thing in PDF. It is really hard to track down this manual. I would really like to have one to reference for this weekend.

 

[PMI]

Amazon says they have them, but they don't ship for about a month.

Check the used listings on amazon. There are always some used ones available to ship right away.

 

[earthworm]

Shocking!

Never, ever use an adjustable wrench for automotive work !! At Harbor Freight I bought an oil filter pliers(vise grip type) ($4 or 5 dollars) these work better than the "handled band ".. It would be ever so nice if people would not over-tighten the filter....

The adjustable wrench is OK for plumbing and very careful time consuming emergency use- sometimes; and yes, the monkey wrench CAN be use on cars, but a man must be careful and know what he is doing!
If a man makes that fateful decision to be a DIY, then all the tools are a lifetime investment, so as Sacko says -DO NOT buy junk !
Also needed is the di-electric grease and anti-seize for the plugs and connectors...and compressed air to clean out the plug bores...wiping takes forever...

 

[PMI]

Also needed is the di-electric grease and anti-seize for the plugs and connectors...and compressed air to clean out the plug bores...wiping takes forever...

Yes, all the little things... 5/8-inch spark plug socket and a plug gapping tool... with any luck part of a "mechanics tool" set, but extra if you are buying just a ratchet and socket set. One plug in my last set was not gapped right from the factory.

Blue loctite to use on the bolt at the upper idler pulley if replacing that along with the belt.

Small steel brush and cleaner for the battery posts and cable terminals.

PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to use on the pulley bolts and those pesky 10-mm fasteners on the airbox the first time you have to loosen those.

 

[CleveSaab]

You sure you are reading the major service one?



65,000 MILE MAJOR SERVICE
-From the warranties and service book-

-Change Oil/filter
-Check front whell alignment, toe-in only
-Check exterior lights
-Lube door hinges, stop and locks
-Check Spare tire pressure
-Clean battery terminals
-Top up washer fluid
-Check fuel system/tank for leaks/damage
-Inspect evaporative control system
-Replace fuel filter
-Replace Poly-vee engine drive belt/check tensioner ( 9000 )
-Check drive belt/tensioner ( 900 )
*(that should pretty much say REPLACE SERPINTINE BELT ( 900 )
-Check all fluids
-Flush and fill collant system
-Replace spark plugs
-Replace air cleaner element
-Change/bleed brake fluid
-Change ATF ( 900 )
-Change ATF and filter ( 9000 )
-Rotate tires
-Change ventilation air filter
-Check headlight/foglight aim
-Inspect and clean calipers

 

[DougR]

Ok, I am very confused. The information I am getting is very conflicting. I think the 65k thing is from the manual for the 900NG.

In my service manual what I posted is what it said.

And I went to owners.saabusa.com, and it has the following:

60,000

Clean A/C Drain Hose
Check Brake pads and discs
Inspect brake hoses and brake lines
Change engine oil and filter
Inspect fuel system for damage or leaks
Retighten front and rear suspension joint boots
Tire Rotation
Clean and grease battery terminals
Cabin air filter replacement
Check engine collant freezing point and check for leakage Visual inspection of airbag systems
Inspect innter and outer drive shaft joint boots
Replace engine air cleaner filter
Front wheel alignment
Spark plug replacement
Replace engine drive belt and check tensioner function Check evaporative emission system



70,000

Clean A/C drain hose
Check Brake pads and discs
Inspect brake hoses and brake lines
Change engine oil and filter
Inspect fuel system for damage or leaks
Retighten front and rear suspension joint boots
Tire Rotation


80,000


Clean A/C drain hose
Check Brake pads and discs
Inspect brake hoses and brake lines
Change engine oil and filter
Inspect fuel system for damage or leaks
Retighten front and rear suspension joint boots
Tire Rotation
Clean and grease battery terminals
Cabin air filter replacement
Check engine collant freezing point and check for leakage Drain, Flush, and refill cooling system, pressure test system

 

[Tarpot]

great advice thanks.

I have another question. I am trying to get a hold of a 900NG Haynes manual. Any idea where the best place to get one is. Is there anywhere that I can get one online. I know that partsforsaab has them, but It is REALLY expensive with the shipping and pound to dollar conversion rate. Amazon says they have them, but they don't ship for about a month. I called all around my area last night trying to locate one, but I cannot seem to get a hold of one. Is there anywhere that lets you buy such a thing in PDF. It is really hard to track down this manual. I would really like to have one to reference for this weekend.

It's definitely too late for this weekend, but you can try amazon.co.uk which currently has them.

 

[CleveSaab]

Ok, I am very confused. The information I am getting is very conflicting. I think the 65k thing is from the manual for the 900NG.

Y'know doug...I re-read your posts here a few times. Even did a quick search of your previous posts....I don't see what kind of car you have?!?!? You never did mention it! :cheesy:

What I posted up top was from the owners manual of my previous Saab 900. A 1994, found it in an old thread, I didn't re-type all that.
I went to get my services book. I'd like to thank you for getting me to do that. I was planning to do my own major service. The page is missing and it's been stamped. Duh. I forgot it was done!
:roll:

Check the 95,000 service in your book. That's the 3rd major service (35,65,95). It should be identical to the 35K one.
These are the cheaper ones at a dealer. The 65K one and the 125K are the same, as well.
The difference between the two is
1) CHANGE ATF ( 900 )
and
2) REPLACE FUEL FILTER

This should be true of all the 900's.

 

[DougR]

I should put it in my profile, doh. I have a 2002 9-3SE