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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think the stock system is, well, awfull. I don't even think adding a sub will do the trick. I have a ICM2, and I think it is the 150W system. (how would I know?)

I read this:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~mmo/Docs/saba_pdf.pdf

And a couple other things on this site, but I still had a couple of questions:
Do people feel it is unecessary to add an amp to the front 3 speakers?
How do you fix rattles in the car from the speakers?
Why would you use a line level converter instead of using the wires coming in from the HU?
Does the amp need to be any special Ohms, or rating?

I haven't had any experience adding amps to highs, because my HU was always powerfull enough to keep up with my subs.

I currently have 2 sony xplode subs and a sony Xplod amp that I plan to get rid of for a single 10 or 12 setup, along with the amped highs.
 

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If you do not have 6x9's in the rear parcel shelf, and you own a US car, you have the 150/7.

Most of us find the stock amps adequate for the mids and highs. It's the bass drivers that consume power.

The wires coming from the HU are all speaker level signals, which is why you need to convert to line level with a LOC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Would it be better for me to run a 4 channel amp, rather than 2, 2 channel amps?

How much power should I run to the stock 4" speakers?
 

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I had the 7-speakers set-up in my car. I now have an amp driving the rear 6x9s, as well as the front door speakers, all Inifinity after market. Then i have a single amp to drive a sub in a box in the trunk.

I personally found it absolutely necessary to power not just the sub, but all other speakers. I wish i could also power the dash speakers (currently Boston Acoustics 3 1/2"), but those are the only ones still driven by the stock system. Initially i thought it wouldn't be an issue since all i really wanted was crisper highs, but now i wish i would have been able to add some power to those as well.

Good luck!!

edit:
i have a 4x150 for the full range speakers, and 300X1 for the sub. It's enough, but you could go for more depending on your needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ctrlz said:
The wires coming from the HU are all speaker level signals, which is why you need to convert to line level with a LOC.
But can't you just run those speaker cables into one side of the amp, and then run the amped signal to the speaker? Or is the line level converter a better solution?
 

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robhurlburt said:
But can't you just run those speaker cables into one side of the amp, and then run the amped signal to the speaker? Or is the line level converter a better solution?
The problem is the Saab speaker level signals tend to be higher power than most amps desire for the upper limit of their high-level inputs.
Example:
My Rockford amp has speaker level inputs. They are spec'd to 11 Volts or less. I am using AMP2 as source. That amp peaks at 14 V, might even be 20V (don't remember). At any rate more than 11 V is bad.

Solution is a LOC which can handle the power and convert to line-level. Look for a LOC rated for 20 Watts or higher. Some are rated for 1-2 W or 2-5 W and those won't cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ah, got it. I would be running to much power to the amp in the line.

Another question, amps like this:
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Pioneer-2-Channel-Amplifier-GM3300T/sem/rpsm/oid/181562/catOid/-13095/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

How do I know if I am supposed to be running 4 ohms or 2 ohms?

Also is it better to run seperate amps for seperate speakers, like what was shown in the DIY? Does that just give me more adjustability?

Are there different signals that go to different speakers? I.e. the rear 6X9s (that i will add) have a different signal than the rear 4in, that is what i should be grabbing the signal for each one off a seperate amp.
 

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robhurlburt said:
How do I know if I am supposed to be running 4 ohms or 2 ohms?

Also is it better to run seperate amps for seperate speakers, like what was shown in the DIY? Does that just give me more adjustability?
An amp's rating will often be stated for 2 and 4 ohm loads. How much power you need depends on how big a speaker you are driving, how loud you want it, and its impedance. RMS power is more important than peak.

I think my amp (RF301S) is rated 75 W rms into 2 channels at 4 ohms. I use it to drive a 12" sub and two 6x9 woofers and do not use all the power available. I have the gain set at 75% to match the rest of the car. All my midrange and tweeters are run off factory amps. My sub is a 12" unit with 4 ohm impedance (Polk MOMO 2124).

Saba's utilization of multiple amps gives the most flexibility because you can set the volume for sets of speakers using the gain control. Some amps have remote gain controls which you can mount up front giving you options as you drive. I have such a control for my subwoofer volume.
 

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robhurlburt said:
so basically an ohm rating isn't directly rated to a speaker, rather the output an amp can do. So speakers don't have ohm ratings, just power ratings (peak and RMS)

Edit: These speakers have ohm ratings, so you match the ohms to the amp and speaker.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8222318&type=product&id=1166840026793

Wow there is a lot you need to read into:roll:, too much for me to explain in this forum... Check out this link for some detaied OHM loads and how to get the best load on your amp.. Look this over then ask if you have any more questions...

:roll:
http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm
 

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Speakers have impedance characteristics measured in ohms. This is an important consideration. Almost all car speakers are 4 ohm impedance. the door speakers in the 93 are the only ones which are 2 ohm.

Amps driving 2 ohm speakers need to be able to handle that. Almost all amps can do this. The ones that are not 2 ohm stable will often have big warnings in the documentation. If ratings are stated for 2 ohm loads, that's a good sign the amp was designed to handle that. Power ratings differ based on load, because that's how electricity works.

If an amp is not 2 ohm stable it may overheat when driving a 2 ohm load. Almost all better car amps have thermal shutdown intended to prevent the end-user from destroying the amp this way.
Columbus2.0t said:
Look this over then ask if you have any more questions...

:roll:
http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm
Agree this is a great site. Been there many times!
 

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darod said:
edit:
i have a 4x150 for the full range speakers, and 300X1 for the sub. It's enough, but you could go for more depending on your needs.
Wow...to each their own of course, but that seems like overkill to me. I don't pretend to be an audiophile in the classic sense, but I only needed to sound to be solid and loud for those inside the car, not three blocks away...haha.

Anyway, I threw in the BA's up front, Inifinity 62.7i's in the doors...all with stock amplification...then a line converter to run the low-end signal back to a kicker brand signal splitter (forget the name but it basically takes the signal and allows it to be split between two sources and a sub). The signal then goes to an Alpine amp which I think only runs like 40-45 watts by 4 channels to run the Alpine r-series 6x9's on the back shelf. Then the other signal going to a basslink which has a built in 200 watt amp I think. All powered through a distribution block and 1.2 farad capacitor. Nothing revolutionary, but I did it all myself :p.

Regardless...do what you can yourself...it makes it much more worthwhile in teh end...and most of all have fun!

IQS
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
how is that basslink. It seems everyone on here talks about that, rather than buying a sub and a seperate amp. If i were to do it, i would probably get the basslink II
 
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