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Discussion Starter #21
The how-to



1. Position the mirror, with the switches in the car, until it completely points inward. You can pop the glass out of the clips, you will want to compress the two outer ends of the steel spring while doing so. It's difficult. Put a blanket on the ground because you will drop the glass.



2. Remove the fairing. I seem to remember it’s the four torx screws you see in the picture here. Anybody can confirm?



3. Moving to the other side you’ll notice the black box with the wires coming out. This box you will want to remove. It simply clips into place and most wires go into a connector, but you will have to cut the other wires. The poly fuse you need to replace is already visible, it’s the little yellow disc sticking out of the black box.



4. With the black box (SOD) on the bench / in the vise, carefully cut the resin / plastic away around the poly fuse. Heating it up helps but wasn’t necessary in my case.



5. Cut the poly fuse off of it’s legs, as high as possible, but below the yellow coating. Solder in the new poly fuse. Tinning the legs with flux and solder helps. Also tin the leads sticking out of the SOD.



6. Clip the black box back in it’s place on the mirror and reconnect the wires. Solder the wires you cut in 3. and wrap them in insulation. I used shrink tape. Notice I cut *all* the wires in 3., also where I could have simply disconnected the connector. Notice that I am a moron.



7. Notice my priceless assistant as she’s heating the shrink tube.

8. Enjoy working mirror. Have appropriate alcoholic beverage.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Seeing this now, I would have thought going a greater amp rating from 25A up would have been better. Wouldn't the 5A give up sooner?
Mind the dot, it's 0.50 Amp vs 0.25 Amp original. 5A would smoke the little mirror motor.

I choose 0.30 Amps. Ramp up the amps too much and you'll risk burning out the motor.
 

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Mind the dot, it's 0.50 Amp vs 0.25 Amp original. 5A would smoke the little mirror motor.

I choose 0.30 Amps. Ramp up the amps too much and you'll risk burning out the motor.
Ok so earlier in this thread Steve said ( I used .5A/72V SOD (original is .25A/50V).)
So I should go with a 0.30A/50V timed fuse?
 

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Ok so earlier in this thread Steve said ( I used .5A/72V SOD (original is .25A/50V).)
So I should go with a 0.30A/50V timed fuse?
I used the 0.5A/72V and the driver's side was working till yesterday. Did i just fry the motor? I was starting to move not in a smooth fashion the past few days.

how do i check if the motor is still working? I can hear some clicking when i press the folding button but no movements.

des
 

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As it turns out, a 75 cent, easily-replaced component, failed.

I have folding mirrors again. :D

Part of me wanted to take a mirror apart, just to see how it works (or should, at least.) I found no discernible switches for limiting the folding and unfolding. Just a motor, a gearbox and a little black doohickey. A doohickey with an electronic thingamajig curiously sticking out.

Googling led to Civic drivers with similar folding problems and solutions. The doohickey is a Shut-Off Device and the thingamajig an Resettable Fuse. The SOD is filled with resin and part of the fuse sticks out. Digging out the fuse, cutting it off and soldering in a new one is easy. I chose a slightly higher rated fuse to compensate for wear and tear in the mechanism.

Both mirrors now fold and unfold reassuringly. If somebody needs it I can write a how-to. Dismantling the mirror housing, as I did, is unnecessary. :roll: Only the plastic cover needs to come off. Anyone with basic tools and a soldering iron can do this.




After many months trying to figure out how to get my auto fold mirrors working - I also stumbled on the civic fix--glad to know it works;ol; I got the same rating as the civic uses--72V 300mA --will be fitting this weekend.
 

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Wait few hours and try again. That fuse will reset itself when cooled enough.
tried resting it for days, still no luck.

Will try resoldering a new fuse if to see if it helps. funny thing is, every time i turn on the ignition, i can hear some squeaks coming from the mirror. sounds like the motor is like trying to move or something?

des
 

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Replaced fuses on mirrors on the weekend
(I bought the same rating as for the Honda Civic)

Both mirrors fold now... HURRAH! ! ;ol;
 

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I'm looking at an '08 SAAB 9-5 wagon to replace my "07. The '08 has folding mirrors with the poor operation problem.
My concern with the fix is that it suggests that the motors need more current. That suggests that there is too much friction in the system. Is there a place that should be lubricated? Did SAAB (or GM) miscalculate on that issue?
 

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Don’t think about it too much, replace that circuit breaker and call it a day... still works perfectly for my, no lubrications or any headaches ?
 

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One of mine used to stop half way. The other has been replaced so runs faster. On my sluggish one, I pushed a blade between the two parts of the exterior pivoting joint, prized it apart enough to run the edge of a cloth through to remove some dirt, then blasted it with spray grease.

It now completes the travel consistently, although not as fast as the replaced one.

Summary - dirt accumulation could be a contributing factor.

Doug
 
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