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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I went with the Yonaka Type 6

2 x Silicone Reducing Elbow 90 Degree 2.5" to 2"
1 x Silicone Reducing Sleeve 2.5" ID to 2"
5 x Silicone Sleeve 2", 6" long
3 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.5"
10 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2"
1 x Aluminum Intake Tubing 2" OD X 24"
2 x Aluminum Intake Tubing 2" OD X 12" (since they only had the one 24" tube)

Hopefully I can make it happen with this. If not, well I'll just have to order more. I have a pipe bender at the parents house, so Im hoping all this will work out well. I'm nervous and excited!

I'm mixing together Socal's and White's ideas. Going to do the 2" tubing throughout like Socal suggested, but I'm also going to run the 90 degree reducing elbows right at the FMIC inlet/outlet like White suggested.

I'm also recycling the stock 2" and 2.5" piping... I really hope I have enough total length
 

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Just remember to lay all your parts out, get a good picture of how you want everything to go, measure twice and cut once, and take your time. Decide if you're going to keep your headlight wiper motors, and remove the front bumper at the beginning.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks =]

I think I'm going to scrap the motors. I really have no use for them. Living in Seattle we don't see a lot of snow, and when we do I'm too scared of other drivers hitting me to drive lol. I'm assuming you removed the hood as well as the bumper?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I am starting to prepare for this install by clearing out the drivers side fender area in preparation for the new air filter to sit in there. I'm curious if the way I mounted the APC and the ignition amplifier looks alright. If the mounting is sufficient I will be cutting the 'L' bracket I used so it is flush with the car. I just don't want to cut and waste the bracket if you all don't agree with the placement.





 

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Heres my just completed air intake and battery mount all up costing $60 . I have no cruise control apc or evap canister to consider so it was pretty straight forward . Used 75mm od pvc pipe and a cheap pod filter . Sounds like yours will be a more elegant solution .
 

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That should work nicely. If you use one of those Uni dual stage foam filters, maybe one with a 3" inlet diameter, 4 1/2" body diameter, 4" length, that would work great in that confined inner fender space:

http://www.unifilter.com/online catalog/universal filters/universal3.html

They also make one with the same specs, but in a 6" length, along with different inlet and body diameters, so there should be something you could use. By using one of these, you might be able to get the neck connected on the engine side, vice the inner fender side, to give the filter more room. You'll have to figure out what the specs are on the connector you'll be using on the MAF sensor, then determine if you want the filter end to sit on the inside or outside on the filter end. I've done both, and if it fits real snug, you can have it fit inside without worrying about it falling off.

Just gives you more options for filter type and mounting. On mine, I just bolted up a pleated gauze cone filter I had on the shelf, otherwise I would've pursued the Uni foam filter option. I figured with all the space on the intake side (cold side), and the larger cone filter, there wasn't any real advantage to spend the time and effort to isolate a much smaller filter inside the inner fender like "gustavm" did:





But on your particular project, it looks like where you've relocated those things should work, clearing out some space to drill thru to the inner fender. I'd highly recommend using a Uni dual stage foam filter, because they've got all kinds of different inlet/body diameters and body lengths, which should make finding the biggest filter you can fit in that space a lot easier to do.
 

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The race guys seem to prefer foam . Drenched in cooking oil I read somewhere . I might return my filter and go for a bigger one as social1200r mentions as there is plenty of space . Can you not relocate your apc . The under seat position of the earlier model seems a goo d idea but involves alot more wiring .
 

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So why the foam filter over a K&N? I was debating getting this: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=ru-3700
Uni makes one that's pretty much the same dimensions, except the top is also foam, not solid rubber like the K&N, so there's a little more filter area. The debate between oiled foam and oiled gauze is like the debate about dino oil versus synthetic oil, tires, and other such things.

Speaking from personal experience, when I had an 1100cc Moto Guzzi v-twin sport motorcycle, it was originally rejetted for K&N's pleated gauze pods, which were fairly small due to space limitations. I found some bigger Uni foam pods, and after I put them on, I had to adjust the idle set screws, because the bike would die. IIRC, the Unis flowed more air, so I had to give the carbs more fuel at idle to compensate.

The dual stage foam Uni is about half the price of a comparable K&N pleated gauze filter, and is expected to last just as long. To me, being a foam filter, they're a lot easier to clean and re-oil than the pleated gauze type. The Uni foam filter is just a good alternative to the typical pleated gauze filter that most folks seem to prefer. I've used regular cooking spray to oil Uni foam filters I've had in the past, and if you go this route, be sure to dry them thoroughly, so you don't foul the MAF sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just a brief pick of the IC before buttoning everything down, including all th scattered about tools across the engine bay! The brackets were bent straight down to fasten the FMIC from the bottom. I'm rather happy with it =]

 

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looks good! i am in the process of doing my IC too, what is the diameter coming off the turbo and off the throttle body? my ic has 2.5" in/out and i went with 2.5" 90 degree elbows and was going to reduce after that. just need to order up more things, but not sure what size!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
From the intercooler I used 90 degree 2.5"-2" reducers with 5 inch legs. Then from throttle body I used original 2.5" pipe and reduced to 2" 45 degree bend to connect to IC. And on turbo side I used the original 2" pipe and connected to 90 degree bend to meet up with the 90 degree elbow off the hot side of IC.
 

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Thanks! Just dropped more at siliconeintakes on couplers and piping should have more than enough for everything!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks! Just dropped more at siliconeintakes on couplers and piping should have more than enough for everything!
Ya man everything it perfectly with that setup. Literally meant to go there. Really hope to see that not quite ripe banana at the Saab dyno day! I'm almost ready as well. Downpipe is next weekend =]
 

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i am going with a little bit different set up and a smaller intercooler ( i think its 18x12x3 2.5" in/out ) still going to be a front mount, and still larger than stock so i still consider it an upgrade...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey Zach, turn your clamps at the front IC around. they won't clear the bumper like that.

Put them like this:

Ya white, I took this pic before putting the bumper on, immediately noticed the error and corrected =]. Thanks tho!
 
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