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I would suggest three aspects to consider.........
1. The master cylinder is on the way out. Usually, if you need to keep pumping the pedal or repeat bleeding exercises, the end result will present itself as a pedal straight to the floor. If you are extremely lucky, the master might be restorable with a seal kit but the damage is usually terminal due to the internal spring collapsing and rusting......rust sediment and the broken spring tend to damage the bore. With this deteriorated bore surface, the seals are quickly compromised under pressure and bypass takes place. Bores can be re-sleeved with stainless steel sleeves if the the interest is there or a new M/C could be bought and away you go.
2. Slave...? any fluid dripping from the clutch housing? The slave could be worn and bypassing but there is usually the tell-tail sign of fluid on the ground and maybe the clutch being grabby if the brake fluid has managed to travel that far into the clutch.
2. Study the pedal linkage carefully. There will be a clevis pin (pivot point of pedal arm to M/C input arm) which wears grooves into the pin shaft creating the pedal slop. A new pin might take out some of the play but the holes in the arm and M/C arm will be elliptical from the corresponding wear, so some play will still exist. An action that can be considered if you are willing is to replace the pin with a slightly bigger one. The holes in the pedal arm and the M/C arm would need to be drilled out subtly to suit the new pin. A bit messy to do but if done carefully, the slop will be reduced substantially. There can also be wear in the pedal hinge bushings.....(where the pedal hinges are mounted to the car)......the copper coloured bushings can suffer the same elliptical wear. A lot harder to reduce as these are no longer available.
From the experience I have just been through, the slave, the M/C and the flexible hose in the clutch line all went south within 3 months of each over......once you start, it doesn't seem to end until the whole system is done. I corrected the linkage slop in the daily car some time ago and the pedal still feels nice and direct.
1. The master cylinder is on the way out. Usually, if you need to keep pumping the pedal or repeat bleeding exercises, the end result will present itself as a pedal straight to the floor. If you are extremely lucky, the master might be restorable with a seal kit but the damage is usually terminal due to the internal spring collapsing and rusting......rust sediment and the broken spring tend to damage the bore. With this deteriorated bore surface, the seals are quickly compromised under pressure and bypass takes place. Bores can be re-sleeved with stainless steel sleeves if the the interest is there or a new M/C could be bought and away you go.
2. Slave...? any fluid dripping from the clutch housing? The slave could be worn and bypassing but there is usually the tell-tail sign of fluid on the ground and maybe the clutch being grabby if the brake fluid has managed to travel that far into the clutch.
2. Study the pedal linkage carefully. There will be a clevis pin (pivot point of pedal arm to M/C input arm) which wears grooves into the pin shaft creating the pedal slop. A new pin might take out some of the play but the holes in the arm and M/C arm will be elliptical from the corresponding wear, so some play will still exist. An action that can be considered if you are willing is to replace the pin with a slightly bigger one. The holes in the pedal arm and the M/C arm would need to be drilled out subtly to suit the new pin. A bit messy to do but if done carefully, the slop will be reduced substantially. There can also be wear in the pedal hinge bushings.....(where the pedal hinges are mounted to the car)......the copper coloured bushings can suffer the same elliptical wear. A lot harder to reduce as these are no longer available.
From the experience I have just been through, the slave, the M/C and the flexible hose in the clutch line all went south within 3 months of each over......once you start, it doesn't seem to end until the whole system is done. I corrected the linkage slop in the daily car some time ago and the pedal still feels nice and direct.
