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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a 1987 900 Turbo convertible, my first Saab. The engine runs great, a little clunky on the suspension. The clutch pedal drops to the floor board with no effort and springs right back up. I bled the clutch and worked great for 60 miles, I did it again and it ran for about 6 miles. Also when I depress the brake pedal there is a hissing sound, a vacuum sort of sound. That noise I am guessing is a vacuum line that must go to the master cylinder. As far as the clutch goes I am thinking of buying a bleeder pump and really bleeding the system. Any suggestions?
 

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I would suggest three aspects to consider.........
1. The master cylinder is on the way out. Usually, if you need to keep pumping the pedal or repeat bleeding exercises, the end result will present itself as a pedal straight to the floor. If you are extremely lucky, the master might be restorable with a seal kit but the damage is usually terminal due to the internal spring collapsing and rusting......rust sediment and the broken spring tend to damage the bore. With this deteriorated bore surface, the seals are quickly compromised under pressure and bypass takes place. Bores can be re-sleeved with stainless steel sleeves if the the interest is there or a new M/C could be bought and away you go.
2. Slave...? any fluid dripping from the clutch housing? The slave could be worn and bypassing but there is usually the tell-tail sign of fluid on the ground and maybe the clutch being grabby if the brake fluid has managed to travel that far into the clutch.
2. Study the pedal linkage carefully. There will be a clevis pin (pivot point of pedal arm to M/C input arm) which wears grooves into the pin shaft creating the pedal slop. A new pin might take out some of the play but the holes in the arm and M/C arm will be elliptical from the corresponding wear, so some play will still exist. An action that can be considered if you are willing is to replace the pin with a slightly bigger one. The holes in the pedal arm and the M/C arm would need to be drilled out subtly to suit the new pin. A bit messy to do but if done carefully, the slop will be reduced substantially. There can also be wear in the pedal hinge bushings.....(where the pedal hinges are mounted to the car)......the copper coloured bushings can suffer the same elliptical wear. A lot harder to reduce as these are no longer available.

From the experience I have just been through, the slave, the M/C and the flexible hose in the clutch line all went south within 3 months of each over......once you start, it doesn't seem to end until the whole system is done. I corrected the linkage slop in the daily car some time ago and the pedal still feels nice and direct.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no fluid dripping from the housing, the hose has fluid on it. i inspected the pedal and it seems fine and works after a fresh bleed , somehow air is getting in the line as i drive. I will take a look at the master cylinder. Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Rodentmaster, are you talking about the brake master cylinder or the clutch master cylinder?
 

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Clutch....

If the flex hose at the slave has fluid on it, that may indicate the hose is about to let go. Clean it up with some degreaser or brake cleaner and look to see if the wet spots or fluid re-appears.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
should i just replace the braided hose with rubber hose or should i replace the hole line? It looks like the person before cut it and reatatched it with three hose clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The clutch hose was leaking where the braided meats the tubing. Somebody had cut the braided hose and reattatched it with three hose clamps, needless to say it had split. I ordered a new clutch hose and it is on the way. Thanks for the input guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
anybody know how to remove the nut from the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder? A 13mm wrench will not fit, the casting for the slave cylinder/gear box is in the way.
 

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anybody know how to remove the nut from the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder? A 13mm wrench will not fit, the casting for the slave cylinder/gear box is in the way.
Been a while...
If you remove the bleed nipple you'll have better access and you have to bleed anyway so it doesn't add to your job.

a 13mm flare nut wrench would be best. A regular open end wrench will be more likely to round the corners off the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have had the bleed nipple off, applied heat the area via a heat gun used vice grips and I used a 13mm flare nut wrench. Whoever put this on used way too much torque. I am really thinking about cutting the hydraulic tubing and using a socket wrench.
 

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I have had the bleed nipple off, applied heat the area via a heat gun used vice grips and I used a 13mm flare nut wrench. Whoever put this on used way too much torque. I am really thinking about cutting the hydraulic tubing and using a socket wrench.
Since you're replacing the line... cutting the tube is a great idea so you can put a socket on it. Try and crimp the line close to the nut before you cut so no debris can enter the slave.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you all for the suggestions and advice. I have cut the old line out and installed the new last night. Everything seems to working fine now. The clutch pedal is stiff and the car shifts. Now on to the struts.
 
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