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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
6 months ago I had no idea how hard it was to fit a standard saab intercooler to a non-intercooled T8.
I've eventually managed to get all the bits that you need, and i thought i would take some pictures to help anybody else who wants to do it!

I used the intercooler and the 2 intercooler pipes from a T16, and a airbox-turbo pipe from an intercooled car (not sure if it was a T8 or 16? - Si?).

You may also want a bit of APC pipework (just larger bore vacuum pipe), or the piece from a donor vehicle with an IC that goes from the APC solenoid to the airbox-turbo pipe. the existing one is not quite long enough!

In the end it only took me an hour or so to fit it. It involved drilling 3 holes in my body to mount the bottom IC bracket, and using a couple of nuts and bolts through existing holes.



take one standard saab 900 intercooler:


You also need this 90degree bend pipe that goes from the IC to the throttle body, along with the rubber fitting to join it to the IC. Also available in black:


Then you need this pipe that goes from the turbo to the IC, along with the robber bit to join it to the IC:


The last pipe that you need is the plastic pipe that goes from the airbox to the turbo. This picture shows the pipe that you need (top) along with the standard non-IC T8 pipe below.
It is not possible to make the non-IC pipe fit with the IC as the funny flattened bit makes it too big to fit!



There was an extra hole in the pipe i got to go on mine (possibly for a bypass valve?). I blocked this off using a nut and bolt and a couple of big washers.

There are also some bits of bracket that you will want to fit the intercooler:

Top air deflector:



Side bracket:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
along with extra rubber bit:


and lastly, tht bottom bracket for the intercooler. I forgot to take a picture of this, but here it is fitted


Fitting the IC is fairly simple, and only took me an hour or so.

I removed my bonnet to make things easier to get to, but you could work around it if you liked.

First clear your existing pipes and any wires out of the way. Remove your headlight and indicator to make access easier.

Fit the side mounting bracket to the intercooler

and place the bottom bracket roughly where it needs to be


then carefully slide the intercooler into place. The pipes for the oil cooler should just fit inbetween the intercooler and the side bracket. You may have to wiggle them around a bit!


On the side bracket there are 2 holes which should line up with existing holes on your front panel. Here are mine with 2 shiny new nuts and bolts through them:

I had to drill one of the holes out to take an M6 bolt.

Before you fit the nuts and bolts, you should hold the intercooler in place and mark up the holes in the bottom bracket so that you can drill them. I just made 3 small holes and then used self tapping screws Use this picture again

Once you have drilled the holes and screwed the bottom bracket down, you can put both bolts through the side bracket. The IC should now be in place, and you can fit the top air deflector:

The deflector just clips on at the top, and there is a nut that holds it down from underneath.
The bonnet release cable and the water pipe from the radiator should fit behind it, though I had to stretch them a bit to make them fit, and ended up cutting it slightly to make it sit right.

You can also clip on the rubber section to the side bracket as shown in this picture. I had to trim mine slightly to get it to clear the oil cooler pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Now you can refit the pipework.

It is easiest to do these two first:


Then do the last one which is the IC to the throttle body:

It can be a bit of a struggle to get this one on round the rubber bellows on the air box (I think that the proper intercooled model has a slightly reshaped cover), but it will go if you push it into the right places.

After this, you need to reconnect the pipe that goes from the APC solenoid to the airbox-turbo pipe. I found that mine wouldnt quite fit with the new pipe, so i moved my APC solenoid across slightly and stretched the pipe!. If i were doing it again i would try and get hold of a new bit of APC pipework.

The finished Job!


Another view from the front showing what the top deflector bit does. I also removed that wiper motor as it didnt work anyway and i thought it might let a little bit more air though:




Now you need to check that the car starts. If it does not then you most likely do not have one of the bits of pipework done up properly air-tight!

If you then go for a test drive, take a screwdriver/socket with you! - if you get it up to boost and there is a pop and the car stalls, then you did not have something done up properly and one of the hoses came off!

Also make sure that your indicator is properly re-attached as they are prone to fly away at about 75-80 mph if not!

I hope that was useful to somebody!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks Matthew! ;oops: .

Its not as good as your clutch write up, but should give people an idea about how easy it is to do this once you get the right bits.

I bought my intercooler ages ago but didnt find out (and get hold of) the other pipes i needed until recently, and so couldnt fit it.
Its not surprising how i couldnt get the bits to fit originally when i used the standard airbox-turbo pipe when you compare it to the one it used in the end!

Things are much easier when you have some pictures of what you need to do and look for.

I went for a test drive over to my parents house. After stopping on the way to rescue the remains of my indicator from the gutter after it blew away :evil: the car made it all the way there and half way back before i popped a hose off the IC!. It made a very loud pop and worried me briefly!
I actually managed to drive a fair way with the hose half off though it kept stalling

My next project is to set my APC up properly (and stop it backfiring!). now with the IC on i peak at 0.9 bar ish (or slightly higher to hit the cut-off!) and then it drops down to 0.6 or 0.7. It would be nice if it stayed a bit higher.
 

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Quick

You did'nt hang about did you! While i'm still stuck with either lights or a working engine your already testing yours!

Glad to hear that it all went OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I havent actually fitted the APC to the 99T yet!. That is going to take slightly longer!....
 

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well done that Man ;)


nice write up Tomarse, its always nice when us T8/T8S boys do some pictorial write-ups...
with the later type intake pipes it should flow a tad better as well :cool:

all you need to do now is add Silicone vacuum lines & polish that camcover...


Paul

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Sleeper baby, no show & all GO...........................
 

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Thanks for the write-up and pointing me to it. I would like to see if there is a way to not use that really dodgy plastic pipe to go from the air filter box 'snorkel' to the turbo. The non-IC one is really horrible since it doesn't like up at the correct entry angle with the output side of the filter box snorkel (at least not with the one on my 81 turbo).

Is the rubber 'snorkel' the same on IC and non-IC turbo c900's?

There's got to be a way to use something other than the dodgy plastic pipe. I guess silicone hose of the right size might not do as it would have a tendency to collapse under heavy vacuum conditions, though there are plenty of places selling straight silicone hose that would suit if the shape integrity won't be a problem under all conditions.

Craig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
c900 said:
Thanks for the write-up and pointing me to it. I would like to see if there is a way to not use that really dodgy plastic pipe to go from the air filter box 'snorkel' to the turbo. The non-IC one is really horrible since it doesn't like up at the correct entry angle with the output side of the filter box snorkel (at least not with the one on my 81 turbo).
You mean these pipes -


top is the IC car one, bottom is the non IC 8V one.

the non IC one just wouldnt fit once i had wiggled stuff about to fit the IC. angles and bends were way off.

Is the rubber 'snorkel' the same on IC and non-IC turbo c900's?

There's got to be a way to use something other than the dodgy plastic pipe. I guess silicone hose of the right size might not do as it would have a tendency to collapse under heavy vacuum conditions, though there are plenty of places selling straight silicone hose that would suit if the shape integrity won't be a problem under all conditions.

Craig.
by snorkel - do you mean the bit on top of the airfilter box? if they are different it is only by a tiny bit - i didnt change mine, but maybe had to force it very slightly. It is the pipe pictured above that differs i think, not the snorkel.


you could use any sort of pipe that can take the vacuum. plastic waste/drain pipe would probably do if you can make it fit and clamp on..
 

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Forgot I'd posted a reply in this thread not too long ago. :cool:

Re cold-air intake pipes...

top is the IC car one, bottom is the non IC 8V one.

the non IC one just wouldnt fit once i had wiggled stuff about to fit the IC. angles and bends were way off.
Yes I have the non-IC intake pipe at the moment and I know it won't fit with the IC installation. Apparently there is a metal cold-air intake pipe from 99 turbo's that's a perfect fit for 8V c900 engines when fitting an intercooler. Haven't tracked one down yet.

by snorkel - do you mean the bit on top of the airfilter box? if they are different it is only by a tiny bit - i didnt change mine, but maybe had to force it very slightly. It is the pipe pictured above that differs i think, not the snorkel.
On all my c900's the air filter boxes have a right-angled plastic venturi-tube with holes in it for the 'raw' air intake to the stock air filter box. I checked in the EPC recently and it looks to be an Australia-only thing.

That aside, on all my 8V's, the air filter boxes have their air intake ports facing the front towards the back-left corner of the radiator and the venturi intake tube points up into the space between the filter box and the back of the radiator and left headlight. Clearly that's a problem for installing a T16 intercooler as the intercooler sits where the venturi intake tube currently lives.

I'm considering hacking the 8V air filter box pulled frm one of the other cars I'm junking and cutting a new inlet hole to position the raw air intake at the back then I can use a T16 air intake pipe that pulls air in from under the left-side of the hood at the top of the fender (right near the front of the fuse-relay panel). I hope that makes sense. :cool:

I believe most c900's in the USA (including the 8V's) were fitted with what I've termed 'snorkels' after what people fit to off-road 4wd vehicles to give a clearer, less restricted way to collect 'raw' air to feed into the air filter box.

you could use any sort of pipe that can take the vacuum. plastic waste/drain pipe would probably do if you can make it fit and clamp on..
There are places that sell suction tubing so I might get some the right size and configure that appropriately if I'm not able to locate any T16 cold air intake tubing that I can adapt.

Craig.
 

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Sorry to be a bit of a killjoy but don't you worry about what might happen to your turbocharger compressor wheel if the bolts slowly undo and fall off and get sucked into the compressor?




I rivited a metal patch over the hole on my pipe. With a bit of sealer behind to make sure it wouldn't leak.
 

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ejenner said:
Sorry to be a bit of a killjoy but don't you worry about what might happen to your turbocharger compressor wheel if the bolts slowly undo and fall off and get sucked into the compressor?




I rivited a metal patch over the hole on my pipe. With a bit of sealer behind to make sure it wouldn't leak.
A nylock nut will make sure the nut/bolt/washer setup doesn't come apart, but it's a very good point.

Craig.
 
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