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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i have a 98 saab 900 convertible. it was failed for bad control arms. they were replaced 3 years ago by my lil bro and only 25k miles on them. i can warranty them thru eeuro parts. none of the bushings or ball joints are ripped or torn as you can see from the photos. the tires have a slight bit of play which the shop is saying is the control arm.
i dont think it exceeds what is considered unacceptable from the state insepction manual.


anyways they tested the tires by having it on a lift with the tires just hanging in the air.

my lil bro said the tires need to be under load to test the suspension which they prob be can be on the lift. he said to use a pry bar.

my question is isnt the pry bar used to place the suspension under load? if the wheels are on the ground or sitting on the lift directly isnt it under load?

how do i test for play under load?


my lil bro wont call me instead of playing text tag. i wish he would just call to explain how to use the pry bar and where. i am doing a state trooper challenge tmw and i want to show the shop the proper way to test the suspension but i cannot if i have no idea what to tell them.

anyone have any ideas?

please help ?


i am not getting any clunking or noises while driving or going over bumps.
 

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To test those suspension components jack up the front of the car a few inches and put a prybar under the wheel and pull up and let down several times to see if there is any excess movement in the ball joints or the control arm bushes. With the front end up you can check for excess movement in the tie rods by pulling the tire/wheel left to right while looking at the tie rod to see if there is play in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
those dont involve the suspension being loaded tho. what did my bro mean by using a pry bar to test the suspension while its loaded ie wheels on the ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok rereading that i guess the bar under the tire, is that enough for it to be under load? while in the air?

i had them do that and it wasnt moving. still wouldnt pass it on my challenge inspection.

To test those suspension components jack up the front of the car a few inches and put a prybar under the wheel and pull up and let down several times to see if there is any excess movement in the ball joints or the control arm bushes. With the front end up you can check for excess movement in the tie rods by pulling the tire/wheel left to right while looking at the tie rod to see if there is play in it.
 

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Are you able to watch the test to see what they're seeing? Is it possible they are confusing the stanchion arms for control arms?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i asked them to measure the wiggle and they didnt have their tool and the state trooper didnt care. even tho i am not sure its over 1/4 inch.
 

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If they're Febi I would expect a good lifetime... although I have personally never used Febi's LCAs. If they were PPS then 25k might make some sense.


You really do need to use a prybar to test them, as the load from the strut will keep them too tight to just test by hand. It looks like the tech is doing the right thing.


I wish I had something useful to tell you!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
they failed it from moving the tire left and right slightly. its a ball joint it will move slightly no? it didnt move up and down

they might have done the right thing today buy they still wouldnt pass it.

does the wheel wiggle look excessive?


im gonna take it somewhere else and if they ask im just gonna say it was failed for the tie rod ends which i replaced last month because another place wouldnt do an alignment for me without that being done. i am sure that place would have told me the arms were bad too. they dont seem like they want to help me. they said they would look at the control arms for me for free and now they are making excuses of being too busy and they will call me when they are not. ill jus have to find somewhere else.

If they're Febi I would expect a good lifetime... although I have personally never used Febi's LCAs. If they were PPS then 25k might make some sense.


You really do need to use a prybar to test them, as the load from the strut will keep them too tight to just test by hand. It looks like the tech is doing the right thing.


I wish I had something useful to tell you!
 

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there's also the possibility that the wheel bearing is gone giving you the side to side play as well as the up and down. Take the wheel off and see if you can see any play in the hub.
 
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