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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2003 9-5 aero with HID low beams. I recently got an orange dummy light on the dash that looks like a headlight with line thru it. my low beam, passenger side was out, so was the high beam.

I got new bulbs, and replaced, no luck. drivers side works great on both. Tested new bulbs on driver side also. Replaced the bulb check relay, and now my high beam works on pass side, but still not the HID/low. Is there another component that can be changed out?

Here's what I've done so far:
*I tested voltage at the bulb's socket connector and there were 3 leads in it. I got 29.3, 29.3, and 63.5.....not sure if those are the right levels it's supposed to receive, but it is receiving power.
*Also opened the bulb check relay and all solder joints were intact.
*checked all the lower level fuses also.
*switched bulbs and a good bulb doesn't work on that side either.

Anything I can test for? Already been pulled over 2x for this. Getting migraines from everyone flashing me at night for driving with my high beams on. Need a fix somehow please please please! :lol:
 

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Not sure I'm completely clear on what you posted because with the 9-5 xenons, the high and low beams are the same bulb - the beam is just changed by the position of a shutter.

If your xenon headlight is out and you've ruled out the bulb, fuse and relay it is most likely the control unit (sometimes referred to as the ballast). It's a computer box attached to the underside of the headlight assembly:

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=5408497
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, yes I have the xenon projector bulbs which are motorized leveling. It also has standard hallogen bulbs in the 2 headlights toward the center. These are only active with high beam engaged. So high beam would light the 2 xenons and the 2 hallogens.

BTW the dash light looks like a headlight icon with arrows pointing up and down, seems to indicate motion. Maybe the motor is bad on the light? Does that warning light give you any better info?

Also, the testing I did, would that give any indication as to the status of the Ballast? Those voltages are ok? or at least tells you that the relay is functioning, right? if relay was dead, there would be no power to the headlight. right?

just trying to avoid having to buy a $200+ part that I may or may not need unless there's a way to isolate the ballast and confirm that's what the prob is. I'm sure the answer is to switch it for the drivers side unit.......but it's really hard to get to. Any other options?
 

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if you let the previous bulb burn completely out, i'm going with control module, not a cheap repair unfortunately.

@robw: the control module is not the same as the ballast. The ballast is the small silver box that the bulb actually is attached to. The d1s bulbs that our cars use you cannot replace just the ballast as it is part of the bulb. some xenon bulb types allow you to replace just the bulb part and not the ballast every time.

As a note for anyone reading this in the future, whether or not the control module is OP's actual problem. REPLACE YOUR XENON BULB WHEN IT STARTS TO FLICKER, NOT WHEN IT GOES OUT! It will save you a lot of money in the long run. Seems control module burning out is a common symptom of waiting for the xenon to burn completely out.
 

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Unless you have done the relay mod, the halogens are not active on high nor low beam. They only function as a "flash to pass", due to slow start up time of the xenon lamps.
When my control module failed, the halogen "flash to pass" light would not work, nor would the xenon. I swapped modules from one side to the other, and problem changed sides as well. Takes about 30 minutes to do the swap.
I had one module fail due to my delay in changing a failing lamp, and one failed due to ebay/chinese xenon.
 

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Unless you have done the relay mod, the halogens are not active on high nor low beam. They only function as a "flash to pass", due to slow start up time of the xenon lamps.
Exactly, which is why I was confused :)
@robw: the control module is not the same as the ballast. The ballast is the small silver box that the bulb actually is attached to.
You're right ski - I think they actually call the small silver box attached to the bulb an "igniter". But if you do an Ebay search on saab 9-5 ballast, you will find that many sellers are referring to the control module as a "ballast" - thought it was worth mentioning to the OP.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-0...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 

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just trying to avoid having to buy a $200+ part that I may or may not need unless there's a way to isolate the ballast and confirm that's what the prob is. I'm sure the answer is to switch it for the drivers side unit.......but it's really hard to get to. Any other options?
It's not really that hard to swap the control units - takes about 30 min and it will confirm for certain if that is the problem before you buy a new one. FYI, if that is the problem, I got a used module from Goldwing Saab for $125 - and they warranty it for a year. Also, my dealer uncovered an issue with certain Philips Xenstart bulbs (have to check the serial number) that were causing repeated failures of the control module. Give this thread a read and check the serial #s if you are using that brand of bulb.

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180082&highlight=repeated+xenon
 

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Same thing happened to me. The control unit went bad. I had an issue with some condensation forming on the inside of the headlight which found its way into the control unit and fried it. I ended up getting a full used unit. Once you pull the headlight out, the control unit comes right out, it's not hard at all.
 
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