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Discussion Starter #1
My '06 appears to need a blower control module (fan spped is low, and I already replaced the fan). The OE part is stupid expensive (almost $200), while the URO is just ridiculously expensive ($120ish).

Anybody have experience with the URO? Decent quality? I know that some of their parts aren't great, but others are. Curious if anybody has direct experience with this specific part.
 

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Don't know about URO but you may know that the later ('06+) version is much more expensive than the earlier version - but they are interchangeable. The controller module, wire colors and functions are the same but only the plug-in connector is different - you just need to splice into the existing harness. If you're handy and can contort yourself under the glovebox you can save some money and do it without removing the fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't know about URO but you may know that the later ('06+) version is much more expensive than the earlier version - but they are interchangeable. The controller module, wire colors and functions are the same but only the plug-in connector is different - you just need to splice into the existing harness. If you're handy and can contort yourself under the glovebox you can save some money and do it without removing the fan.
Have you done this? If so, did you solder or crimp? I'm a bit concerned with a crimp connection as the current levels are pretty high.
 

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Have you done this? If so, did you solder or crimp? I'm a bit concerned with a crimp connection as the current levels are pretty high.
Yes, about 18 months ago. Bought a pre-'06 controller from a pull-a-part junkyard (paid $5). I soldered male and female spade connectors (has worked flawlessly) so I could easily remove it if ever needed. As I recall there are two black (?) wires so I alternated the male/female connector orientation to keep them straight. Once you see the wires and the connector you'll know what I mean.

It was a little cramped, but there's only five wires to attach. Happy I didn't need to fiddle with the motor, housing, shroud, wipers, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There are no 9-5s in junkyards within 200 miles of me, unfortunately, so I'd have to pay full price. I remember reading a post about doing this, so I suspect it was yours.

Looks like the URO is under $100 from AutohausAZ with a 24 month warranty (https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/UR-5468152). If I buy a new OE old style and splice, I'll get zero warranty :(

Anybody have a 9-5 in a nearby u-pull-it lot and willing to grab one for me?
 

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I’ve done this too, using the block connectors with screws in them. Disconnect the battery - there’s still live stuff down there.
Are there none on eBay?
 

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I got lucky for sure. Here's a new early style ('98-'05) #4869319 for $109 with free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Climate-Co...175998?hash=item5466eec17e:g:gQQAAOSw5LZcrZfn

The facelift '06 version is #5468152. Here's a new later style for $99 with free shipping.

Here's a URO #5468152 new later style for $101.

Obviously, the new style is "plug and play" BUT... the wiring orientation requires you to remove the fan, etc. unless you splice. If you're planning to splice, buy the cheapest old or new style that you can find.

If you go the junkyard route, keep in mind that you need to cut the wires very close to the firewall so you have enough to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Secured a donor from an '02 from a junkyard. Doesn't look "bad" but of course it's impossible to tell from the outside. I snagged some 6 conductor molex connectors from dead power supplies and borrowed the molex pin crimp tool from work and plan to cut the wires on the installed harness and add a 6 pin molex connector to it. Then I will cut the wires on my donor and add the complementary 6 pin molex to that. This way, if it doesn't work, or I ever need to replace it again, I can use whatever I can get cheap and just re-do the connector.

Just to make sure, the wire colors are identical old vs. new where they come out of the actual controller module, right? Looks like a red and black 14 AWG and a BL/GR, OR/WH, and something else all in I'd guess 16 AWG.

I'll try to remember to take photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Identical, but there are two black wires so follow the routing.
I was looking at the wiring on this: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/169330/Blower-Motor-Regulator-12599017/ as well as the wiring in https://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts.com/images/parts/lg_ed5977da-d0ea-4d37-a018-408bd4b9ca9b.jpg


The donor part should look like this one: https://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts.com/images/parts/lg_ed1638e1-7d47-439e-9632-9701a3bd53a6.jpg


I'm not seeing the two black wires?
 

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It's been almost two years since I did it so a little fuzzy...but there are two wires of the same color - thought black - but can't see your photos from my phone. Just keep them straight.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is a photo of the donor before any surgery. Wire colors from left to right in the photo: BLACK, WH/YL, WH/OR, BL/GR, RED.

269775
 

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Don't cut any wires until you can access and examine the existing controller, its wiring loom and connectors. Again, it's been awhile and I could be mistaken but I recall that there are two wires of the same color.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks to climate change and some unseasonably good weather aligning with vacation time during the holidays, I got time to do this. Rather than splicing wires directly, I used a 6 pin molex connector much like you'd find for 12V power on a motherboard...because at work we had the connectors, pins, and crimp tool. Plus, it allowed me the option in the future to only replace the module (if I cut the harness and crimp on new pins) rather than replacing the entire harness. Honestly, I don't know why somebody at one of the saab specialty places doesn't just do this, but whatever.

The bad news is that my donor from the junkyard appears to not work. Fully connected up, and I got NOTHING from the blower. Reconnecting the original I get the same weak blower motor that drove me down this path in the first place.

I can confirm for those who come behind me that the wiring coming out of the pre-2006 is identical to the 2006+. I'll post photos when I figure out how to access this new site from my phone.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A little more followup on this...

I was looking at the WIS wiring diagram today for the donor car (2002) and for my car (2006). As you can see in the photos, there are CLEARLY 5 wires emanating from the module: Black(BK), orange/white, yellow/white, green/blue, and red. Both modules are identical as has been previously described.

Yet, in the WIS wiring diagrams, only 4 wires are mentioned. The yellow/white never appears. The component is question is "220" near the bottom-right of each diagram.
2002:

2006:
 

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Just 5 wires, all different colours. I've just successfully finished mine today - using spade connectors, then heatshrink etc. RHD, a total PITA job - there is no way to even get sockets on the screws and everything needs to be unwound with an offset ring spanner - even then you can only get about 1/8th of a turn each time. A lot of steering gear in there, brake pedal mechanism etc. But she blows so sweet!!
 
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