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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
Just got done replacing my radiator (thanks again to those who helped). I'm on to dealing with an intermittent CEL that's been nagging me the past few weeks. Code was a P0130, which should point to a new oxygen sensor. Can't tell anything obvious upon inspection of the wiring.
BUT, another nagging issue that I've sort of known about, but have been putting off was in front of me again while inspecting the O2 sensor. The pictures may better explain the problem than I could.



Different view:


Any ideas what I need to do fix/replace to take care of this? It looks like there should be a brace similar to what's on the rear attached to the forward bracket. Is that correct? The middle pipe is hanging quite low and I'm afraid one of these days I will smoke it on a speedbump.

The other thing I noticed while under there is that where the front-most part of the exhaust (part that houses the O2 sensor before the cat) connects to the manifold-turbo-thingy (very technical, I know) one of the three bolts appears to have had its head sheared off and there is some play in the connection. Should I be worried about this? Sorry, did not have my camera when I saw this.
I've not done much with exhaust systems, fwiw.

Thanks,
-Bryan
 

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There should be two of these on either side of cat one hole on the rubber goes through the hanger circled in red (upper) and then the other on a similar bracket/rod attached to the cat. I can't tell exactly from the picture but it looks like the one attached to the cat may be missing.

Regarding the missing stud, you can probably just remove whats left of the old one and put a new one in (it screws into the turbo) but depending on how rusted it is and how much is left sticking out it may or may not be an easy task. If you leave it has is and there is a leak, then air can possibly enter the exhaust system and cause the front o2 sensor to read a lean condition for which the ECU will compensate with more fuel, not the worst thing in the world but wont help fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From the pictures I've been mulling through, I believe you are right about the brackets missing from each side of the cat. Maybe some shoddy maintenance at some point with the last owner--who knows! :roll:
Unfortunately it looks like my only option may be a new downpipe (I edumacated myself on what that was called). I don't have a welder or any resource for the metal brackets that should be there.

As for the missing stud, I have a feeling you are right about some air sneaking in through that connection. Especially considering the exhaust is not being held all that securely to the undercarriage at the moment--there was quite a bit of play when I was under there. There is at least a good sized portion of the bolt still outside the turbo--I suppose possible I could remove it if it's not rusted to in there.
Thanks much for the feedback--
 

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Its also possible that the cat was replaced and and the brackets not transferred. A muffler shop should be able to bend up some and weld them on, if the rest of the downpipe/cat is in good shape that might be a cheaper option.

If you there is enough of the stud that you can get a couple of nuts on there then you can tighten the two nuts together and back them off as one and it should remove the stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I got back under there to address this finally, and I guess my first impression of the turbo/downpipe bolts was incorrect. I didn't realize it was just nuts on the exhaust end at first--are the studs actually welded to the turbo? If so, I might have underestimated this job. Wasn't planning on removing the turbo, but maybe that's the only way if it is welded in :roll:

Can anyone confirm this?--I'd like to have the right gameplan going in. Heh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Whew, ok. It was near impossible to tell with it still in place. I would not have thought of using the two nuts like you suggested--I'll attempt this weekend. Also just went and ordered a new O2 sensor, my guess would be never changed in 100k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, it's been a tedious road so far. I've been working on this a bit at a time and have hit a wall.

Long story short--thread on the broken stud was too short, nothing would make it budge. Moved on to removing the turbo and hopefully using a screw extractor on the stud.
I've been following along with the directions at platonoff.com, but I'm stuck at removing the bolts for the turbo inlet pipe. These are torx bolts (oh, how I love torx bolts) and there is just a bit more than zero space to maneuver my torx wrench. My past experience with torx is they strip very easily.
Anyone with experience removing the turbo have some thoughts?
My only idea at this point is removing the exhaust manifold and lifting the turbo upwards with the inlet attached. I'd really like to avoid that, but hey, in for penny in for a pound, right?
 

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When I removed my turbo, I disconnected the exhaust manifold from the head and the coolant/oil lines from the block, with the whole assembly on a bench it was then easier to get at the more difficult bolts. Careful tho, the exhaust manifold studs are likely to break off too, especially the one near the distributor plug, I find oil would leak down to the gasket and then allow a little movement weakening the stud there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thermostat question...

Well now! It's been a long road, but the update is the turbo and exhaust manifold are off the car. A shop took all the studs out for free and I'm at the point of re-assembly and hoping to goodness it all works nicely again.

I have a quick question though--I'm replacing my thermostat while I have the coolant drained again and the replacement looks a bit different from the original. I've attached a picture so I don't have to explain in words. Basically, my original t-stat did not have these two items. What orientation should they be at? 12 o'clock? I'm assuming this is the correct part, but someone with more knowledge could enlighten me I'm sure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, after some more research, and being able to compare the old one to the t-stats on eeuroparts--I believe my car should actually have an 89 degree t-stat, and eeuro has both 88 and 89 degree units listed for my vehicle.
Any harm in running an 88 in place of an 89? :confused:
 

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Well, after some more research, and being able to compare the old one to the t-stats on eeuroparts--I believe my car should actually have an 89 degree t-stat, and eeuro has both 88 and 89 degree units listed for my vehicle.
Any harm in running an 88 in place of an 89? :confused:
They are 82 and 89 degree C thermostats. You can use either. The only difference is that the 82 degree one will fully open sooner than the 89 degree one. In cold climates, this can be a bit of a hassle as the car will not warm up quite as quickly in the winter. Regardless of which thermostat you use, the car will still operate in the range designed, or if something in your cooling system is not up to snuff, in a hotter or cooler range (usually hotter) depending on the problem. This means that if something is amiss in the cooling system, the 82 degree thermostat will not fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, finally got everything back together today (thanks to a break in our 100+ degree weather pattern). So I have a somewhat dumb question that may help me figure out whats going on.

First the problem:
After running the engine for a minute or so, there is smoke from the engine bay (exhaust area). I used a fair amount of nickel anti-seize on the exhaust stud nuts, which is what I'm guessing (hoping) is causing the smoke. There is none from the tailpipe.
My second issue is that it seems like possibly the new thermostat is not opening. I ran it up to mid range on the temp gauge with the heat blasting and it did not kick the fan on and start sucking down coolant like the last flush I did. The first issue is making me nervous about the second issue and engine temp.

So I suppose my dumb question is:
does the temp gauge in the car have anything to do with the thermostat? I would assume it has a separate sensor for that and the t-stat is mechanical only. Just making sure if the t-stat really doesn't open I won't un-knowingly overheat the engine due to the temp gauge not being accurate.

Again, sorry for the naivety here. Hope that makes sense!
 
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