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I have a 2000 2.3T automatic.
When car is not moving and when the gear is in D, it makes a lot of vibration.
It drives so smooth and everything but when it's not moving, it bothers me a little.
I know 4 cylinder makes vibration but it wasn't this much when it was newer.
Where does this vibration come from and can you get rid of it???
 

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I have pretty much the same car and the same vibration...It has just started in the last 20k or so, but there is nothing wrong. Old transmission mounts maybe, or even the transmission itself is getting old (I have been told...) but I wouldn't worry about it, there is nothing WRONG. I know it can be annoying, but I think the fix is going to be too costly to be worth it.
 

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I have a 2002 Aero automatic that I bought this past February with about 67,000 miles on it and when I first had the chance to drive it I was a bit alarmed by the amount of vibration at idle so I went ahead and did my research and found that the motor mounts were a source of vibration based upon the time and mileage factor.

I went ahead and ordered all four of the motor mounts from EEuroparts.com and it was about $400 dollars to do the replacement doing the labor myself. The two side mounts that flank the motor on the drivers side and passenger side were done relatively easily with the car on the ground and the motor being supported by a floor jack. The front mount was done with me lying on my back underneath the car while it was jacked up by the jacking point behind the left front wheel. The rear pendilum (sp?) mount at the rear of the motor was the toughest and I was able to enlist the help of a friend of mine with a lift and with considerable effort it took us about an hour.

Personally I think that it is worth spending the money to have them looked at and replaced because there isn't a ton of space behind the motor for it to rock back and forth while accelerating and decelerating from moderate throttle input. Furthermore I think that based upon the location of the exhaust manifold at the front of the motor and where the exhaust system runs I think that having bad motor mounts leads to wear on the exhaust system mounts which leads to the vibrations that you are having... so I think that it is a cause and effect relationship that should probably be addressed.

That being said the hangers that the exhaust system hangs from aren't bad to replace while you are at it and the cost is probably less than $50.
 

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Nice post Paul great feedback ;)





Ok so who the hell is messin with Paul's avatar.............:eek:
 

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the other thing it could be is just rough idling. Supposedly you can go to the dealer and have them up the idle rpm by 50-100. In general it seems that cars with small I4 engines idle a bit rougher than their drivers expect.
 

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Yeah I have the same car too..my car did that...the vibration stopped after i changed the sprakplugs though. it tremble even worst when driving 60 and up MPH but that seem to have went away to. The only time i notice small amounts of vibratoin if in the mourning when i am driving the car and the engine is still a little cold. but that does last long.
 

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PaulGinAZ said:
I have a 2002 Aero automatic that I bought this past February with about 67,000 miles on it and when I first had the chance to drive it I was a bit alarmed by the amount of vibration at idle so I went ahead and did my research and found that the motor mounts were a source of vibration based upon the time and mileage factor.

I went ahead and ordered all four of the motor mounts from EEuroparts.com and it was about $400 dollars to do the replacement doing the labor myself. The two side mounts that flank the motor on the drivers side and passenger side were done relatively easily with the car on the ground and the motor being supported by a floor jack. The front mount was done with me lying on my back underneath the car while it was jacked up by the jacking point behind the left front wheel. The rear pendilum (sp?) mount at the rear of the motor was the toughest and I was able to enlist the help of a friend of mine with a lift and with considerable effort it took us about an hour.

Personally I think that it is worth spending the money to have them looked at and replaced because there isn't a ton of space behind the motor for it to rock back and forth while accelerating and decelerating from moderate throttle input. Furthermore I think that based upon the location of the exhaust manifold at the front of the motor and where the exhaust system runs I think that having bad motor mounts leads to wear on the exhaust system mounts which leads to the vibrations that you are having... so I think that it is a cause and effect relationship that should probably be addressed.

That being said the hangers that the exhaust system hangs from aren't bad to replace while you are at it and the cost is probably less than $50.
Great post. I will mention that I replaced motor mounts but the vibration came back in about 10k miles. My motor mounts weren't bad, just old so I figured I'd give it a shot. So I guess once they start getting a little old they just allow some vibration at idle. Anyway, I'm not going to spend the money to do it again and I just wanted to warn you that it does come back rather quickly.
 

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pdenton said:
the other thing it could be is just rough idling. Supposedly you can go to the dealer and have them up the idle rpm by 50-100. In general it seems that cars with small I4 engines idle a bit rougher than their drivers expect.
Never really want to up the idle unless it's out of the specified range. Plus, it'll put more wear and tear on the torque converter and tranny.

You could be at rough idle because of plugs, definite possibility as the gap may be getting to big for the DI Cassette to use them as sensors properly. If you haven't replaced them in a while, why not give it a shot?
 

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Hello!
Just joined SaabCentral...
I think this is the best sourse of infornation i've ever been through...
Anyway, regarding engine vibrations: my honest opinion - that is quite normal for Saab with auto gearbox when it is in "D" and foot on the brake pedal.When brakes are applied - there is nothing to absorb engine/gearbox vibration.It goes straight through drive shafts-brakes-body no matter how good your engine and gearbox mounts are...The only way to get rid of vibs is to tune out of the resonance by changing RPM which i personally would not be bothered about as long as engine idles all right in "N or "P"...
 

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SectorNine50 said:
Never really want to up the idle unless it's out of the specified range. Plus, it'll put more wear and tear on the torque converter and tranny.
really? i had seen a couple places on here where people had recommended that
 

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pdenton said:
really? i had seen a couple places on here where people had recommended that
Yeah, I've seen that mentioned quite a bit here in the past. Not sure how problematic it would be? You would only be talking about a slight adjustment, not anything significant.
 

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pab95 said:
Yeah, I've seen that mentioned quite a bit here in the past. Not sure how problematic it would be? You would only be talking about a slight adjustment, not anything significant.
Your still going to be putting more stress on your transmission components, not to mention it'll take more brake to stop since the engine will be pushing harder at idle.

Think about how a torque converter works:
A viscous fluid and two fins, one from the engine, one to the transmission. Imagine the one from the engine spinning at 800 rpm while the tranny is not spinning at all, you can imagine how hot it gets. Now you up the RPMs to 1000 just so it's smoother. Your going to be sheering the hell out of that fluid, quickly heating up the torque converter, which in turn will make the car much more efficient and shortening the life of the torque converter. I'm sure you can imagine what kind of damage sitting in traffic with a high RPM can do. They engineered the car to idle at that rpms, I'd leave it.

All autos resonate, and being a 4 cylinder, it's prone to vibrate more as there are less fires per second, while a V-12 fires very quickly and will be very smooth at any RPM.

You can do it if you'd like, but personally, the wear and tear isn't worth it to me.
 

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Well I have an 06 9-5 with only 12K miles and it vibrates at idle, vibrates when it starts, and the exhaust system rattles briefly when I shift between D and R and vice versa. ;oops:
 

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I have no Vibration in drive except when cold.


The PO did lots to improve the vibration from replacing the engine mounts to changin the fluid. It seems to be fine now.

Of course it will vibrate a little, that is normal.

Does anybody get a bit of feel when the car is downshifting to a stop? I think the 2nd to 1st there is a little it of a feel, not a bump, but I can detect it.

Do your shifts feel much more crisp and sharper in sport mode vs. regular?

I can't feel the upshifts at all in regular; however, sport mode I can really feel thoes high RPM upshifts and the full throttle downshifts give a fair bit of feel, not clunky but I good jolt. I guess the torque.
 

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I think the idle increase speed is just 50rpm, from 800-850. I too think its normal for auto Saabs to do this, but some are worse than others.
 

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Just to somewhat reinforce the influence that motor mounts play not only on the vibration feedback in the cabin but also how one part can influence another I replaced my passenger side lower motor mount (2002 Aero automatic) this weekend because the one that I replaced not 12,000 miles ago had failed again.

The original replacement part that I received seemed marginally better than the blown one that I pulled out but having no benchmark to compare it to had me just simply pulling out the original one and replacing it and getting slightly less vibration. I did this job in one fell swoop replacing all four of the mounts at the same time and the vibration was far less than what I had when I first got the car so I figured "that's the best it is going to get."

This weekend when I put the car up in the air and proceeded to jack the motor up a bit before unbolting the passenger side mount I saw that the failed motor mount (with 13k miles on it) was completely collapsed and allowing the metal parts to touch one another. Furthermore the internal fluid portion of the dampener had leaked and I am sure that had quite a bit to do with the shifting of the motor that I felt at moderate acceleration.

I replaced the mount, rechecked my torque settings on the remaining three and visually inspected them just to make sure that other damage hadn't been done and found that the new mount made a huge amount of difference in the shifting feel of the transmission along with that initial shimmy when I moved the gear selector from say, park to drive.
 
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