Bought my '99 Saab 9-5 SE 2.3t from an import shop near Indpls in Jan. '09. Had been wrecked, totaled, refurbished. Ran fine for 6 mos, then started smoking, overheating. Finally parked it in Nov '09 convinced the head gasket was blown (exhaust smelled funny). A week ago (yes, it sat on my drive for 2 yrs) a mechanic friend and I checked pressure, oil and coolant - doesn't look like head gasket. Installed the PVC #6 upgrade - previous hose from TB to crank case w/ck valve appeared to be installed backwards, and another hose was a BMW part and was split, spraying oil on the engine. Now it isn't smoking and no check engine light. BUT: More test driving out on the interstate yesterday: accelerated hard and just as it started to take off I lost power, check engine light came on. It was as if the hard acceleration blew something apart or tripped something. The engine surged the rest of the way home, check engine light on, flashing at one point and had to stop. Radiator has water in it from our repair, had not yet replaced w/coolant, but thermostat read normal (bad thermostat?). Now I have to give it lots of gas to get it to start and stay running. Getting that funny smell in the exhaust now too. Sorry for the long post... can anyone shed some light?
Engine troube: check engine and power loss
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Too many variables here, start with one at a time...
"another hose was split on a BMW part ?" there are lots of hoses maybe tell us where take a pic or something???
Read your code?, we are not mind ( yours or the car's ) readers
Welcome to SaabCentral ....
"another hose was split on a BMW part ?" there are lots of hoses maybe tell us where take a pic or something???
Read your code?, we are not mind ( yours or the car's ) readers
Welcome to SaabCentral ....
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you were much more polite than I was going to be in response to this...
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399 Posts
Sounds like the car might have gone into "limp home mode" due to what you describe as not wanting to stay running. Look for loose vacuum hoses. Check that the charge air pipe is attached firmly to the throttle body. This one will blow off and cause the car to run like that if it's got a loose clamp. More info and the code will help us out.
Jssaab: I understand about the multiple variables - i just wanted to get it all out there. The split hose connected to the oil trap, one of the two upper hoses I think - sorry i can't be more specific. Oil was being sprayed on the passenger side of the engine as a result.
The code I'm reading now is 1 _ 06. Thanks for your patience - I've always trusted others to repair my vehicles; that hasn't worked so well lately.
nathanthepilot: still trying to identify the charge air pipe...
thanks.
The code I'm reading now is 1 _ 06. Thanks for your patience - I've always trusted others to repair my vehicles; that hasn't worked so well lately.
nathanthepilot: still trying to identify the charge air pipe...
thanks.
Sounds like you don;t have an udpated PVC ( version 6) and may not have checked or cleaned the sump. If your hoses are bad that means you have too much circulaiton and crank pressure bad for these cars and add to the sludge problem... replace ASAP and drop your smp when you get the chance
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399 Posts
Yes, you need an OBD II reader. You might be able to have a local auto parts store pull the codes, but long term you will want one for yourself so that you know what's happening with you engine/car when the check engine light illuminates. eBay works, or a Harbor Freight brand (which is what I have) is pretty economical too.
The charge air pipe is the one that runs from the radiator area (just behind) over the top side of the engine to the throttle body (intake). My point was to overall check the connections and see if anything is loose in regards to the many air/vacuum hoses.
The charge air pipe is the one that runs from the radiator area (just behind) over the top side of the engine to the throttle body (intake). My point was to overall check the connections and see if anything is loose in regards to the many air/vacuum hoses.
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If you hear 5 clicks under the hood when you first turn the key on
then that's that LimpHome solenoid firing.
Get the OBDII codes read and tell us what you find
these codes are associated with Limp home Mode
P1260, P1261, P1262, P1670, P1671
then that's that LimpHome solenoid firing.
Get the OBDII codes read and tell us what you find
these codes are associated with Limp home Mode
P1260, P1261, P1262, P1670, P1671
Finally getting back to you guys. Got the codes read this afternoon: P300 and P1300. P300 is a cylinder misfire. Other posts I've read indicate these may be associated w/the DIC. We pulled the spark plugs when we did the PCV update and they looked fine. Also did a pressure test and it seemed acceptable. Do i need to replace the DIC?
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