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Hi guys... as the thread title says really.... is there an engine torque damper available for the V6 aero?. anyone have one or pictures of one installed?.. thanks in advance.;ol;
 

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You can adapt an existing damper that was designed for another car. Here is how I adapted an NRG damper designed for an Acura to fit on a NG 900. This exact design will of course not work on your car, but it should convey the gist of one of the multitude of solutions that were developed for the NG 900s and OG 9-3s.
 

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okay - I'll bite
why do say it does nothing?
Please explain
We have what 5 engine mounts..... Our engines are bolted in place an not going anywhere. Also how is holding an engine in place going to cause any sort of performance gain other than causing the care to vibrate much more. My brother had one on his civic the only thing i noticed was how much more uncomfortable the ride was.

What do you expect its going to do?
 

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If your really having problems with engine mounts failing and feel you need this. Why not get better engine mounts made for higher hp/tq engines.
 

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The NG 900s and the OG 9-3s have 3 mounts, one on the front driver's side, one on the passenger side and finally, the rear mount, roughly amidship to the engine. With this configuration the top of the engine rocks back a lot, even at the stock 185 bhp. I was running 340 bhp and it really rocked. Anchoring the top saved the 3 bottom mounts, made upshifts a lot surer and probably took quite a bit of stress off the shifter linkage. In theory anyway, anchoring the top meant a tenth of a second faster translation of torque to the front wheels by elimnating the top kick-back of the motor.
The NG 900 chassis and suspension were horribly underengineered. The car was loose and floppy everywhere. Anchoring the top of the motor really did improve shifting accuracy and feel, even if it did not fix any of the other problems.

If your really having problems with engine mounts failing and feel you need this. Why not get better engine mounts made for higher hp/tq engines.
And I did have poly mounts, but they were still not enough to prevent the engine rocking back too much.
 

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http://www.ingallseng.com/93040-stiffy-etd-2005-08-chevrolet-cobalt-ss.html
This one's for the 06-08 cobalt... prob more for all cobalt's but since our engine bolts into their car maybe this one can be easily modded for the Saab. Plus Ingall's is as about as good as it gets for torque dampers. And whoever said you don't/why do you need it, they're a good mod that really make the car "stay down" which is good for a FWD car trying to accelerate quickly. Wheel spin and hop can be reduced a lot with one of these and they also improve cornering in my experience.
 

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Good find! I'm going to have to get this and see if it fits. Before doing JZW Stg4 my motor mounts were fine. Checked them a couple of weeks ago and they are torn. I have to get new mounts and this.
 

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Check ebay first, you'll find that ingalls one cheaper and most likely chinese imitation ones dirt cheap but ingalls are always cheaper on ebay. Had one for my scion cam from them but they sell em cheaper on ebay. If it works let me know please!
 

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http://www.ingallseng.com/93040-stiffy-etd-2005-08-chevrolet-cobalt-ss.html
This one's for the 06-08 cobalt... prob more for all cobalt's but since our engine bolts into their car maybe this one can be easily modded for the Saab. Plus Ingall's is as about as good as it gets for torque dampers. And whoever said you don't/why do you need it, they're a good mod that really make the car "stay down" which is good for a FWD car trying to accelerate quickly. Wheel spin and hop can be reduced a lot with one of these and they also improve cornering in my experience.
Looks like you are spending lots for the damper and the brackets here. If the brackets don't fit our cars, all you have left is the damper and the need to make your own brackets remains. I made my own brackets in one day, sitting in the back yard using nothing but a 4" DeWalt angle grinder and a drill. The angle grinder cuts through 1/4" stainless with ease. It was easier shaping the bracket than it was drilling the bolt holes for it.
 

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http://www.ingallseng.com/93040-stiffy-etd-2005-08-chevrolet-cobalt-ss.html
This one's for the 06-08 cobalt... prob more for all cobalt's but since our engine bolts into their car maybe this one can be easily modded for the Saab. Plus Ingall's is as about as good as it gets for torque dampers. And whoever said you don't/why do you need it, they're a good mod that really make the car "stay down" which is good for a FWD car trying to accelerate quickly. Wheel spin and hop can be reduced a lot with one of these and they also improve cornering in my experience.
except op has a v6, and saabs don't have an issue with staying down wheel hop or spin.. as for cornering i dont see how that works.

these are useless gimmics imo if they actually did something usefull how come no one with a race car, track car, or even some of the guys with 600-1500hp cars never use them. the only place i see those used is on civics accords some times cobalts and eclipse that all make 20 hp and have an intake and exhaust for mods.

im not saying it will not keep your engine from rocking back and fowarth if it even did shake, im just saying its a 200 dollar mod that does nothing in terms of power gains, road handling, or braking. your better off saving the extra 100 dollars for a tune or spending that 200 dollars on performance brake pads or lowering springs. you would really have to be at the end of your string in terms of mods to want to spend that kind of money on something like that.
 

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except op has a v6, and saabs don't have an issue with staying down wheel hop or spin.. as for cornering i dont see how that works.

these are useless gimmics imo if they actually did something usefull how come no one with a race car, track car, or even some of the guys with 600-1500hp cars never use them. the only place i see those used is on civics accords some times cobalts and eclipse that all make 20 hp and have an intake and exhaust for mods.

im not saying it will not keep your engine from rocking back and fowarth if it even did shake, im just saying its a 200 dollar mod that does nothing in terms of power gains, road handling, or braking. your better off saving the extra 100 dollars for a tune or spending that 200 dollars on performance brake pads or lowering springs. you would really have to be at the end of your string in terms of mods to want to spend that kind of money on something like that.
yeah just get better engine mounts... why would you buy this for the v6
 

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I've seen torque dampers on 6 cylinder accords. A lot of guys use them on FWD cars that like to race from a dig, it just keeps more momentum forward than a mount alone would. Engine mounts typically support the lower part of the engine and torque dampers hold the top of the engine. Either way it's going to lower the amount of engine movement, reduce stress on the engine mounts, and also reduce stress put on the connections of the engine to the transmission, etc. Even if OP has a 6cylinder, I don't know Saab that well but most manufacturers that offer a 4 or 6 cylinder model share engine mounts to ease the manufacturing process..
 

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except op has a v6, and saabs don't have an issue with staying down wheel hop or spin.. as for cornering i dont see how that works.

these are useless gimmics imo if they actually did something usefull how come no one with a race car, track car, or even some of the guys with 600-1500hp cars never use them. the only place i see those used is on civics accords some times cobalts and eclipse that all make 20 hp and have an intake and exhaust for mods.

im not saying it will not keep your engine from rocking back and fowarth if it even did shake, im just saying its a 200 dollar mod that does nothing in terms of power gains, road handling, or braking. your better off saving the extra 100 dollars for a tune or spending that 200 dollars on performance brake pads or lowering springs. you would really have to be at the end of your string in terms of mods to want to spend that kind of money on something like that.
In terms of performance, what you say seems to make sense PacoTaco.

But Saaboheme is saying he didn't want to replace torn up motor mounts anymore. Don't you think the cost savings in time and parts expense by NOT having to replace all your motor mounts is worth $200?

i.e. it's not a performance improvement, but more of a preventative maintenance measure, that's most appropriate when you're pumping out nearly double the stock horsepower. Is that fair to say?
 

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In terms of performance, what you say seems to make sense PacoTaco.

But Saaboheme is saying he didn't want to replace torn up motor mounts anymore. Don't you think the cost savings in time and parts expense by NOT having to replace all your motor mounts is worth $200?

i.e. it's not a performance improvement, but more of a preventative maintenance measure, that's most appropriate when you're pumping out nearly double the stock horsepower. Is that fair to say?
Remember that I did this on an NG900, which only has three mounts at the bottom in a triangular configuration. I upgraded to the two GS poly mounts at the front driver's side and right passenger side. There was still dramatic kick back from the engine, especially when I went up to 340 bhp. I did the torque damper to save the rear stock mount, which I was replacing almost yearly at that point. I have not noticed nearly the amount of engine movement from my STOCK 6 spd 2008 2.0T.
I think Paco's point, and he will correct me if I mis-state this, is that there are better ways to spend the money right now, and that this may be a solution in search of a problem at this point, at least if one is not noticing major engine movement yet and the standard location mounts are not suffering premature failure.
Another thing - torque dampers do tend to add a fairly noticeable amount of passenger cabin vibration, at least on high hp cars.
The torque damper did what I wanted from it under my particular circumstances. It greatly improved shifting feel and precision on upshifts. The NG900 has a solid shift linkage from shifter to transmission housing. During aggressive acceleration with three bottom mounts only, the engine, which was tilted back at this point, would rock forward violently when I clutched to upshift. This made upshifts sloppy and uncertain, at least in feel. Since the damper prevented excessive fore and aft movement of the engine, the solid shift linkage was substantially more stable.
Finally, remember that the top of the engine was swinging through an arc of two or three inches, but the transmission linkage mounting point was significantly lower down, so it only moved fore and aft about an inch. It was an ugly inch though.
 

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I just bought the torque dampener on ebay for $150. I'll let everyone know how it works. I have every upgrade that you can get for a Saab 9-3SS. Koni yellow & vogtland springs, Brembo brake upgrade, strut tower brace, 3 pt subframe brace, Saab uprated road holding kit (sway bars only), 3" DP Catless and 3" exhaust, TD04L-16T turbo, 60lbs injectors, JZW Stg4 tune putting over 300HP at crank (262 at wheels). I have JE forged pistons sitting on my bench waiting to be installed if I feel it needs them. I have Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymetric summer tires that are very sticky and I spin my tires in 1st, 2nd and chirp in third. So if anything I will be able to tell you if this works or not. If not oh well. Just a $150 mistake.
 
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