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Discussion Starter #1
The engine of my 2002 Saab 9-5 stalls randomly when driving after about 40 minutes. Engine is good and hot. Suddenly it just quits. No power loss, though. All the lights, etc still function. I pull over. Turn the ignition off. Wait a few seconds. Fire it up again and can go again for about 40 minutes or so. It stalled three times in a 350 km trip.
It's not the Ignition Cassette. I just installed a new one, together with new spark plugs. I've had the Ignition Cassette fail. Then too the car stalls, but it was different: there was nothing, no electrical power. So, I'm sure it's not the Ignition Cassette.
I wonder: Could it be the Crankshaft Position Sensor? It was replaced at 242, 700 kms, and now I have 409, 600 kms on the car. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Is there a video or link on how to replace the CPS? I would like to do it myself. From what I recall, it's not a difficult job.
 

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A failing CPS generally misbehaves when it gets hot. Consequently it would require a good long wait to cool down before allowing a restart.

How about the earthing point on the thermostat housing? Apparently this is the point critical to the DIC function.

Are you using genuine SEM DICs? (or NGK, who do re-stickered SEMs). Any other brand is a gamble.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A failing CPS generally misbehaves when it gets hot. Consequently it would require a good long wait to cool down before allowing a restart.

How about the earthing point on the thermostat housing? Apparently this is the point critical to the DIC function.

Are you using genuine SEM DICs? (or NGK, who do re-stickered SEMs). Any other brand is a gamble.
I just put a new DIC in the vehicle. Not a genuine Saab part, but from Proparts, Sweden. I did that the first time it went, and it lasted for about 70,000 kms. Also, the symptoms aren't the same. Now the engine cuts out, but I retain all electrical power. That wasn't the case when my DIC went on the fritz.

What do you mean about the earthing point on the thermastat housing. I replaced the thermastat housing not that long ago - maybe 40,000 km.
 

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Well, when my Pro Parts Sweden DIC died, I was just driving along and then all of a sudden my car bucked and then engine shut off, but I had power to the car, just the engine shut off and wouldn't start again. It also fried my cat (I won't get into that but get genuine (SEM) or NGK to be in the safe side).
If your car starts after sitting for 30 or so minutes then it would point towards the CPS.
The thermostat ground is by the thermostat housing if I recall correctly. You should be able to follow the wires from the DIC plug to where they ground by the thermostat (again, if I recall correctly).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, when my Pro Parts Sweden DIC died, I was just driving along and then all of a sudden my car bucked and then engine shut off, but I had power to the car, just the engine shut off and wouldn't start again. It also fried my cat (I won't get into that but get genuine (SEM) or NGK to be in the safe side).
If your car starts after sitting for 30 or so minutes then it would point towards the CPS.
The thermostat ground is by the thermostat housing if I recall correctly. You should be able to follow the wires from the DIC plug to where they ground by the thermostat (again, if I recall correctly).
What do I do with the thermostat ground? Pardon my ignorance. Can it be loosened and cleaned?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, Mimmi. I've cleaned the earthing ground for the DIC on the thermostat housing. Took out the bolt and sanded all edges that touch. We'll see if it stalls again. It only does it after I've driven for 30 -40 minutes.

I still have the problem of the "ABS off" icon lighting up. I know the ABS works, since I've driven on an icy parking lot, slammed on the brakes, and the brakes pump/pulsate just fine. Earlier someone posted that "the connectors" could be the problem. If so, where are they located? Do I clean them somehow? Are they accessible from the top or do I need a hoist? No idea on this one. Appreciate any advice.
 

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When the engine stops running, is it instantaneous? Or is it a very quick dropoff of power? (Can be hard to tell if it's a manual transmission and you're rolling in top gear.)

A bad CPS can do a bit of this fidgeting, though it's not typical. (My NG900, which uses exactly the same CPS as the T7, stalled a couple of times when started from winter cold, but would restart after a bit of cranking. It also set a bad CPS code in ODB II--but no Check Engine light.)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, when the engine stops running, it is instantaneous. I have an automatic transmission. There's a difference now though. When it was a faulty DIC, at least from what I could tell, everything died. No engine. No power, so no lights, brakes, nothing. Now that I put in a new DIC (though not a genuine Saab one, it is the same one I put in 75,000 kms ago), the symptoms are different: instantly stops running, but I have power. All the lights etc function well.

I pull over. Turn off the car. Wait only three or four seconds, it fires up instantly, and off I go again for about 40 minutes. and it does it again. Since the faulty DIC symptoms were different, and since I just put a new DIC in (and plugs), I though it might be the CPS.

I just cleaned the earthing ground for the DIC...though it didn't look dirty.

Any advice on the "ABS off" lighting up in the main panel?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks. I guess because I had success with the first DIC (non SEM) that I installed, I tried it a second time, thinking I would have the same success.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok. You guys have convinced me. I'll remove the DIC (Professional Parts Sweden) and replace it with either a DIC (SEM) or genuine Saab.
 
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