SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
G'day Saabsters,
I'm a relatively new owner of a '92 900 16i non turbo, 2 door, red and love it! Never had a Saab before but it won't be my last. Its got 170k on the clock.
The car just makes you want to "drive", so I've driven it for the last six months, hard. Alas the timing chain is making one hell of a racket under there and now I've decided I want to change it. Yes the 11mm is used up!
A couple of weeks ago somebody posted a thread about taking the engine out and most replies were about things to do after the engine was on the bench. I'd like to know if there is anything to watch out for, little tricks, etc. with actually removing the engine from the engine bay. I've ordered my copy of the Bentley and by the time I get home (working o/s) it should be there.
Any advise will be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
kymoSAABi said:
I'd like to know if there is anything to watch out for, little tricks, etc. with actually removing the engine from the engine bay.
That's a question--and an important one!--which has been asked a few times over the years. If you invest even a half-hour of your time in searching this Forum (use the "advanced" search oprion), I'm sure you will end up with a ton of info:)

Of course, if you hit a snag while actually doing the job, you can always post a query here and get a reasonably quick response!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Having spent a month as a visitor prior to registering on this site and trying the advanced search at far greater length then half an hour using such offbeat keywords as "engine", "remove", "motor", "out" and accepting all default settings to check the entire 900 classic site to get "sorry no matches please try different terms" or simply "page cannot be displayed" sort of prompted me to try the forum.

If there's anybody out there who happens to know a few other keywords that describe "removing the engine" I'm only too happy to try them.

"Pull" and "donk" turn up 500 threads each......
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,270 Posts
If what I just posted isn't of any use (for whatever reason) then the most important thing to remember about removal of the engine is that you should remove the clutch while the clutch hydraulic system is still connected - the clutch is a nightmare to remove without special Saab tools.

That advice is only useful if you intend to separate the engine from the gearbox. If your just pulling the engine to replace the timing chain (which you don't need to do) then you've nothing to worry about.

Other thing - again; only of use if you are dismantling the engine - you might want to get the breaker-bar on the crank-pully bolt before you remove the engine. Just stick the car in gear, secure the bolt using some sort of bar (maybe resting on the floor and then push the car to get that first turn on the nut. Again, nightmare to remove once the engine is out of the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,170 Posts
kymoSAABi said:
If there's anybody out there who happens to know a few other keywords that describe "removing the engine" I'm only too happy to try them.
This is unbelievable. I've just found exactly the same thing. I tried "engine removal" (without the quotes). Server error - could not connect. I tried "roof leak", for another thread, and got 3 pages of results. Back to "pulling engine". Server error. "power steering" - 7 pages. "Knocking engine" - server error. "Gearbox" - 9 pages. "Engine swap" - server error. Can anyone get any results on the word "engine", or anything to do with it? I can get results on everything else except that one fairly crucial word.

By the way, welcome to Saab Central :cool:
 

·
Saab Mad
Joined
·
14,069 Posts
There's a tapered pin that joins the two halves of the gear linkage. You can only get to it from underneath the car, but it's right at the bulkhead-end of the engine bay.

To get there you'll need to have the car jacked up quite high. Make sure you have a heavy duty trolley jack with a broad wheelbase and similarly substantial axle stands.

I've just done this job, and I actually bought a new big-mother trolley jack and six tonne axle stands because I didn't feel at all safe using the other, more puny stands and jack.

That might sound trivial, but it's really important and will have an effect on your confidence for doing the job.

Jack up the from of the car underneath the engine bay's cross member. Place the axle stands' supports underneath the forward wishbone bracket. Place a second set of two tonne axle stands underneath the reinforced sill jacking points.

A note on the timing chain docs previous posted - they're for rolling in a split-link chain. The timing chain and its sprockets will have worn together, and fitting a new chain on badly worn sprockets is very risky. The chain could slip with the worst-case scenario being that four pistons hit sixteen valves :eek:

The correct way to do the timing chain is removal of engine, and replacement of all chain guides, tensioners, sprockets. You can buy kits containing all the parts you'll need.

A few tips as I remember them:
  • When you release the tripod joints from the inner driver cup, put a clean freezer bag over each and secure it with a cable tie. Any dirt at all that enters the tripod joint at this time will grind it up during driving.
  • Remove the bonnet early on, it'll make access much easier.
  • Bag and tag parts that you remove. Bag and tag the fasteners for any large items, and tape them to the item.
  • Lash the relevant ball joint bolts in good penetrating lubricant regularly for several days in advance. They'll could well be seized.
  • Have containers to hand for draining fluids. A turkey baster helps when emptying the power steering fluid reservoir.
  • Do you have an engine stand? It'll help when working on the engine when it's out of the car
I can't think of anything else :confused:

__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,270 Posts
...oh some of the more obvious things like:

- take photos of the wires and vacuum tubes
- be prepared for dripping oil, in quantity sometimes (inner driver boots for example)
- Make sure you have enough room to remove the engine from the car. i.e. celing space, room to turn the crane around (if need be)
- Some roap, chain or balance for the crane when your lifting the engine out of the car
- a nicely sized block of wood for holding the suspension up while your loosening the ball joints
- a good set of sockets, different sized extensions, ring-spanners
- put lots of air in the tyres to make the car easy to move - flat / soft tyres suck in this situation
- get someone to watch while you remove the engine, just in case things go wrong and you need help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Ejenner, Mathew, nutcase, jezzadee,

Thankyou, thankyou oh thankyou...........I'm going into this now with guns loaded and lot more confidence.
Jezzadee, your searches were obviously as frustrating as mine.
When I come unstuck you'll hear from me again.

I'm heading home today from Tanzania so won't be in cyber land till Saturday when the big job starts.

Thanks again one and all.:D :D :D
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top